I found, through personal experience, that the best way to deal with rx7club at first (until you get the feel for it, what you can get away with, and what you can't) is to speak littl, but listen a lot. You will still learn a good deal by just lurking, and if nothing else, you will be better able to judge the mood of the different sections, and see (through other peoples mistakes) what kind of questions elicit which kind of responses.

 

you may not have spike with just the intake upgrade, and you may not have spike during the summer but once it cools down the air is more dense and its more likely to spike.



The stock injectors are good for more power then a lot of people give them credit, the fuel pump will need replaced before they do. here is a nice little fuel calculator you can play with to get an idea what different injector combinations support what power levels. http://rx7.com/cgi-local/3rdgencalc.cgi 85% duty cycle is about the most you want to run an injector without risk of them over heating and sticking open or closed. You should also rewire your fuel pump to get more voltage/output from it. There are articles floating around on how to do that.



Once you do get a standalone, and at whatever point u require bigger injectors there are a lot of options from a different fuel pressure regulator (fpr) to get more fuel at lower duty cycles, 850 pri/ 850 sec 550/1200-1300 (stock 850's bored out), anything larger in the secondaries will require a new fuel rail and FPR.



With your stock setup you should be able to run an intake, downpipe (which you should have anyways for reliability) and a catback, The radiator definitely needs replaced soon. You could add the intercooler, which is a good upgrade cause it keeps things cooler and less likely to detonate, as long as it doesnt block too much air from the radiator. with an aftermarke radiator its not as much of an issue as with the stock one.

 

Thanks for your info. I'm not going to put my intercooler on until I get a different radiator, cause it covers the front opening completely. I'm glad to hear the I can put my down pipe on though.

 

Are you committed to a FMIC? If the car's not going to be tracked, or tracked only occaisionally, there are some proven SMIC set-ups out there that are generally less expensive and nearly as effective. ASP/M2, PETTIT COOLCHARGE III; even PFS. Far less hassle to install, less risk of damage to the IC from debris and risk of engine cooling issues. My .02.



As for the downpipe, if you still have the pre-cat, absolutely replace it. IMHO, a good 3" downpipe is a two-for-one deal. Increased reliability AND increase performance. If you have the bucks, have it heat coated and/or put headerwrap on it before the install. New exhaust studs/nuts are recommended and anti-seize is also your friend.

 

I'm not committed to a FMIC, but I have one already. I wont put it on yet though. As for the downpipe whats the reason for having it heat coated or wraped? Thanks

 

Either one (or both) will significantly reduce underhood temps...and reduce baking plastic, wiring insulation, relays, vacuum hoses, solenoids etc. Also a reliability issue.

 

Oh thanks

 

Understand that rotary engine exhaust temps are significantnly HOTTER than a piston engines. If your on a budget header wrap is simple, effective and least expensive. Especially easy when the downpipe is out of the car. A roll of DEI headerwap is ~$40 at most autoparts stores. Wear rubber gloves and a long-sleeve shirt though, the wrap is actually fiberglass and will itch if you don't. A particle mask is nice too.

If the DP isn't stainless, I recommend spending another $8 for a rattle can of DEI high-temp paint...comes in black or gray IIRC. Coat the DP and, once wrapped, spray a couple of coats on the wrap to seal it. A couple of decent stainless radiator hose worm-gear clamps to hold it at the ends and your golden.

 

My downpipe is S.S. I think I'm going to have it HPC coated. thanks for you info.