Broken Rebuild Pics
#11
oh sh*t, i noticed that little "m" of material before but i didn't understand why it was there. pretty smart design...shouldn't be too hard to reproduce
Looking at the rounded shape of the closing edge it looks like they really made use of the "scavanger effect" everone is always stressing about.
Looking at the rounded shape of the closing edge it looks like they really made use of the "scavanger effect" everone is always stressing about.
#12
Originally Posted by GTUs' post='699574' date='Apr 14 2005, 01:48 AM
I bet you did not check your ports with a flexi glass to check where the side seals riding on, if you did, you will see it is an obvious mistake you can avoid.
oh well, you learn and get smarter next time. just like Lynn said it, you get older and smarter, there is no way around it.
the bright side, yeeeha, new rebuild....
My only mistake was trying to port past the path of the side seals...but the plexi glass method is good for finding the path of the side seal.
Anyone considering such a "WILD" port should read this thread:
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry864310
#13
Originally Posted by pvillknight7' post='699617' date='Apr 14 2005, 07:05 AM
Nah, no templates. Just common sense...Jude Ito doesn't make tmplates for his extreame secondary port.
Here's Jude Ito's extreame secondary port pic I used as an example for mine.
[attachment=30105:attachment]
Different angle....
[attachment=30106:attachment]
You can see the side seal falling into the port ...no, it's not a mistake
[attachment=30107:attachment]
Rounded off closing edge for a smooth transition...you can see on my ports I didn't round off the port enough and it could be extended outwards a little (where the scrap marks are on the closing edge) Sucks, it felt like it was a smooth enough transition.....UGH!
[attachment=30108:attachment]
It's not too bad money wise...prob. cost like $200 for the new side seal, o-ring kit, and OEM Apexi springs (nice to have friends that work at the mazda dealership ) Them discounts add up
-Ryan
I think your irons are scrap.
If the leading end of the seal is not supported, it will round off and gouge the iron. Then when bounced long enough it will break.
In this picture you can see the leading track fully supports the leading end of the seal.
The trailing end can droop into the port a bit, and then runs into the side of the bridge before it pops up on the iron again. This too is a bad port job.
I extended the port up along the bridge so the end of the side seal does not touch the iron until the closing line. All is well now. Shifting at 9,600 RPM with no seal ware at all.
So, trailing end unsupported but with a nice polished radius at the closing line is OK.
The leading end unsupported, is bad mojo and doomed to fail.
Note the see through rotor for scribing the tracks.
#14
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='864397' date='Mar 20 2007, 03:33 AM
I think your irons are scrap.
If the leading end of the seal is not supported, it will round off and gouge the iron. Then when bounced long enough it will break.
In this picture you can see the leading track fully supports the leading end of the seal.
The trailing end can droop into the port a bit, and then runs into the side of the bridge before it pops up on the iron again. This too is a bad port job.
I extended the port up along the bridge so the end of the side seal does not touch the iron until the closing line. All is well now. Shifting at 9,600 RPM with no seal ware at all.
So, trailing end unsupported but with a nice polished radius at the closing line is OK.
The leading end unsupported, is bad mojo and doomed to fail.
Note the see through rotor for scribing the tracks.
And now the picture.
#15
Originally Posted by Lynn E. Hanover' post='864399' date='Mar 20 2007, 04:08 AM
And now the picture.
Think I got it this time.
You can see the end of the side seal has stood up a bur on the side of the bridge. The port was opened up so that the seal could not touch the bridge and instead runs up on the polished closing line.
Lynn E. Hanover
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