Broken Shifter Bushing Pics
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 502
Recently it became increasingly difficult to shift from 1-2 in my car. When my shifter started rattling a few weeks ago I decided it was time to replace the shifter bushings.
I ordered a stock upper plastic bushing from Malloy Mazda and an alloy lower bushing from Mazdacomp. Both cost next to nothing.
As others have said it was very easy to replace the lower bushing. The only thing I would suggest is to put the bushing into the transmission and then lower the shifter into the bushing, rather than trying to slide the shifter and bushing into the transmission as one unit. The stock plastic bushing has a slight lip that holds the bushing onto the ball. The Mazdacomp alloy bushing, probably due to the alloy construction, does not have any kind of lip to hold the bushing in place.
Surprisingly, the stock lower bushing looked like it was in good shape; there was no noticeable play and the surface was no scared.
Replacing the upper bushing was not as easy as replacing the lower bushing. To get the upper bushing off the large exterior and small interior shift boots must be removed.
The large boot on my 94 was held in place with a friction fit lock ring.
After spending 10 minutes trying to tap it off with a screw driver and mallet I used these tools in a more primal way to break the lock ring.
The small inner boot is positioned where the shifter shaft abruptly narrows near the ball. In theory it could be removed in one piece by sliding the boot from the small diameter section of the shifter up to the large dimeter section. However, there is no taper to ease the transition so in reality I don't think there is anyway to remove it in one piece. Based on experience with the lower bushing I ordered a new inner shift boot from Malloy overnight and went right for the brute force removal method.
As is apparent in the picture below the upper bushing was TRASHED.
Results:
Shifting is much smoother and more precise. The rattling noise has been completely eliminated.
I ordered a stock upper plastic bushing from Malloy Mazda and an alloy lower bushing from Mazdacomp. Both cost next to nothing.
As others have said it was very easy to replace the lower bushing. The only thing I would suggest is to put the bushing into the transmission and then lower the shifter into the bushing, rather than trying to slide the shifter and bushing into the transmission as one unit. The stock plastic bushing has a slight lip that holds the bushing onto the ball. The Mazdacomp alloy bushing, probably due to the alloy construction, does not have any kind of lip to hold the bushing in place.
Surprisingly, the stock lower bushing looked like it was in good shape; there was no noticeable play and the surface was no scared.
Replacing the upper bushing was not as easy as replacing the lower bushing. To get the upper bushing off the large exterior and small interior shift boots must be removed.
The large boot on my 94 was held in place with a friction fit lock ring.
After spending 10 minutes trying to tap it off with a screw driver and mallet I used these tools in a more primal way to break the lock ring.
The small inner boot is positioned where the shifter shaft abruptly narrows near the ball. In theory it could be removed in one piece by sliding the boot from the small diameter section of the shifter up to the large dimeter section. However, there is no taper to ease the transition so in reality I don't think there is anyway to remove it in one piece. Based on experience with the lower bushing I ordered a new inner shift boot from Malloy overnight and went right for the brute force removal method.
As is apparent in the picture below the upper bushing was TRASHED.
Results:
Shifting is much smoother and more precise. The rattling noise has been completely eliminated.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,079
From: union, new jersey
there was a time when i was driving around with both the upper and lower bushings broken... i then replaced the bushings thinking i was gunna need it for my short shifter.... used it for 5 days and replaced it with a gotham racing shifter
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 502
The bastard rattling noise has return
Recently I noticed that the shifter has about a 1/4" of vertical freeplay when I grab the shift **** and pull straight up in neutral. I did the same with another rx7 in the area and didn't feel any freeplay.
I took apart the shifter today and want to get input on a couple things.
First, the Main ball of the shifter arm is cupped by two bushings. The top bushing, which I wrote about in my previous post, and a bottom bushing (not to be confused with the lower bushing I discussed previously). There is a metal pin that stops the bottom bushing from rotating and an indent in the bushing that lines up with the pin (see Pic#1). My bushing has a second indent on the other side, yet there is no pin associated with it (see pic#2). Is this normal? I am concerned that the previous owner or a dealer installed the wrong part. I don't believe the indent would have an impact on performance. However, if it is the wrong bushing it may also be too thin, which could cause the freeplay mentioned above.
Second, the wave washer that sits below the bottom bushing and presses it up against the main ball is broken. I imagine this could cause freeplay and the rattling noise.
Has anybody had either of these two items fail? If so what were the symptoms?
Pic#1
Recently I noticed that the shifter has about a 1/4" of vertical freeplay when I grab the shift **** and pull straight up in neutral. I did the same with another rx7 in the area and didn't feel any freeplay.
I took apart the shifter today and want to get input on a couple things.
First, the Main ball of the shifter arm is cupped by two bushings. The top bushing, which I wrote about in my previous post, and a bottom bushing (not to be confused with the lower bushing I discussed previously). There is a metal pin that stops the bottom bushing from rotating and an indent in the bushing that lines up with the pin (see Pic#1). My bushing has a second indent on the other side, yet there is no pin associated with it (see pic#2). Is this normal? I am concerned that the previous owner or a dealer installed the wrong part. I don't believe the indent would have an impact on performance. However, if it is the wrong bushing it may also be too thin, which could cause the freeplay mentioned above.
Second, the wave washer that sits below the bottom bushing and presses it up against the main ball is broken. I imagine this could cause freeplay and the rattling noise.
Has anybody had either of these two items fail? If so what were the symptoms?
Pic#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 502
Originally Posted by 89 Rag' date='Jun 20 2004, 03:01 PM
The bushing in pic 2 looks like the wrong part, I don't think it should have two indents in it. Both top and bottom bushings should have only one indent for the alignment rod to hold them in place.
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