AnthonyNYC

THe plugs may have gotten fouled. Take them out and clean them. Check for spark first, make sure you are gettings spark and make sure you are getting fuel.



I've seen guys put the car in 2/3rd gear with the ignition on and then pull start it. That has never failed, even with fouled plugs it works.



Anthony

Rotorfreak

Ok i took off all the plugs and took out the egi relay... then cranked the car to check compression by placing my hand over the leading plug holes.... There is compression and it is not bad in both the rotors....



Why would'nt it start



Will try push starting it tonite

jeff48920

Sorry if this seems remedial but it is well worth the checklist.



1. check for spark (if you have spark go to step 3)

2. if no spark check coil packs, ignitors, CAS, etc

3. check wires for correct connection, check timing marks etc

4. check for fuel delivery (plugs wet?, if not check for pressure at fuel rail).

5. If you have pressure at fuel rail but plugs are dry check injectors and wiring from ecu to injectors (try noid lights).

6. Make sure intake air is getting to manifold.



BTW you mention that compression is OK, what are your readings

DUB

I hear the RA seals will have low compression to start with...making intial cranking hard.



Sorry for no input...good luck and keep posting.

Rotorfreak

Hi Guys,



Its alive....



after some cranking it fired up and is running ok now.. i think... flames cud be seen inside the exhaust after some intervals... so i uninstalled the just installed mid pipe and put on my cat convertor and everything seems great..



There seems to be more exhaust pressure out of the exhaust compared to my old engine... This is good right... I mean more pressure air coming out of exhuast equal more power or am i wrong....



Thanks alot guys for all your help...

DUB

good work! flames aren't bad or was this at idle?



I've read numerous threads on break in (RA seals) periods...



which method did you decide?

DUB

also did you use solid corner seals too?

Rotorfreak

I need to know how to give it a proper run-in... I can't wait to floor it but at some posts in the forum i have read that i need to run it in for about 3000 miles...

I'll need lots of control not to drive it fast before that..



Also i read that there should be no boost for the first 500kms... how do i do that.. with the sequentials boost is diffcult to avoid... the max i hit was 1.5psi is that ok?



Also these are Rotary Aviation hard seals how do i run them in...



For the time being i have put up three fans infront of the car and have told my driver to let it idle for 20 mins and then turn it off and let it cool for an hour and then again start it up for 20mins.....Is this a good idea or does this have any bad effects.. I told him to keep an eye on the temps still.....



thanks a lot guys

DUB

interesting read



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=40493

Rotorfreak

Ok i have driven it 260 kms in 2 days... i need advice on the following break in procedure that i have come up with but am not sure of.. Please tell me if this would be wrong..



I drive the car for 1500 kms under 3000rpms

alongwith this i let it idle for 30 mins..5-6 times a day with an hourly interval and three fans on the engine with the hood open...







Ok this method i am contemplating because i am at work the whole day... and i can't wait to drive the car fast... 3000kms break-in period will take ages... will the above method be ok...



Is there any other convinient method...

My car was rebuild with Rotary Aviation master rebuild kit...