DrMaxit

Yeah this port is seriously Fed i think. If you look at the second link this is what i had to work with, as you can see the port was already sorry when i got it, too far to the right I think (but again the motor ran fine).

This is what ive done, too far in the oil seal i *think*

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/drmaxit/d...9&.dnm=add2.jpg



This is what it was when i opened the motor to begin with.

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/drmaxit/d...9&.dnm=d632.jpg

This is another one that shows a better angle of the corner seal track and the oil seal.

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/drmaxit/d...9&.dnm=870d.jpg

What do you guys think? I think im going to go to the J yard and get another motor to try and start over with, hehehehe all in good fun. By the way i wasnt going to be finished with this port yet, I just noticed I went to far to the oil seal while trying to square that edge off and stoped unless you guys think it'll make it. I personally think its too deep, but I wanted the pros to check it out. Thanks





For fun check this one out

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/drmaxit/d...9&.dnm=4723.jpg

Drago86

My god,.. that port is a monster,... But from what i can see it looks like your not or just barley into the oil seal track, the aux port have a little more room then the secondary to the track. I cant tell for sure though because i cant make the wear line out in the pics vey well. just look at the housing at an angle and see if you violated it. On the other hand that port closes at like 120+ degrees after or more,.. so it wouldnt make power until,.. o say 14,000 rpm? maybe even not then, thats way far into the compression stroke...

DrMaxit

How can you tell how to read the surface like that? (talking about the degrees of closing and the compression stroke start ect). Sorry if thats a seriously stupid question.

Drago86

i was blindly guessing,.. but the stock ones close at 80, and thoose are way way past stock closing

Drago86

I'm probably very off on the port timming, but regardless its way late. I dont think theres any benifit of going past like 85ish,.. PP's are like 80,.. If you put a rotor on the housing in the position where it closes the port i could blindly guess better,..

DrMaxit

OK ill get a picture with the E shaft through it and the housing on to see how the whole deal looks like. I *think* i know what you are wanting me to do so you can see it better, but trial and error. Anyways im either going to pull a stock motor out of the J yard, (which is risky) or try to find some end irons for cheap (TII or N/A, i could care less).



I do though have these N/A housings that have been ported to a 4port, should i try to squeeze some power out of these? I was thinking about trying to fab up some sort of euro 5/6port butterflies and use that 4 port motor, or do you guys think that the port on that motor is too big to soffocate with the butterflies and wouldnt make any more or less tq with them open or close? I hope you guys can follow, I'm sort of in a hurry, Thanks again.



Charles

banzaitoyota

Charles, I have a cherry set of S5 TII irons JOhn

banzaitoyota

or some salvegible NA irons

DrMaxit

Hey check out these intermediate housings. they were like this when i cracked the motor open. What do you guys think? I think they are, again, too far tward the center, but I may be wrong. This motor did run well.



Intermediate Housing

Drago86

My god whoever did that had a thing for late timming.. Again i cant make out the oil seal path real well in the picture. If you really want to know, go buy yourself a piece of ~11x14 plexi glas, and a 3/8ths inch flat wood drill bit. lay the lexi over the housing and mark the center of the two tension bolt holes with a sharpie. Drill out thoose holes with the 3/8th inch bit. then lay the plexi on the housing and pin it in place with two dowel pins, you may need to ream the holes slightly but you want a nice tight fit for accuracy. the primary port, then turn the plexi 180 degrees and pin it onto a seondary housing, trace that port. Then remove it and either drill / cut a hole out in the middle of the plexi big enough that you can either insert the e-shaft, or your finger to rotate the rotor through its movement. After all that is done install a statonary gear onto a side housing, get a spare rotor and put oil control rings and spings on its gear side, then just oil control rings on the non gear side. Mesh the rotor with the gear and put a rotor housing around it, then lay the plexi on top of the housing and pin it all in place with the two dowl pins. now insert you finger (or the e-shaft if you made a big hole) and turn the rotor though its rotation. you can now watch the outer oil seal scraper (the inside shiney edge of the outer ring) and see if it overlaps the port, aswell as seeing all the corner/side seal paths. That will tell you for sure if the motor is in the oil seal. The seal overlaps the stock port, but its inner sealing lip does not, it stays about 1/16th of an inch away from the stock port.