Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps All you could ever want to know about rebuilding and porting your rotary engine! Discussions also on Water, Alcohol, Etc. Injection

How Mahy Of You Actually Check Everything.

Old Oct 23, 2003 | 12:59 AM
  #21  
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Mazda manual sez 290-360 ftlbs.
Old Oct 23, 2003 | 07:16 AM
  #22  
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Tighter is better
Old Oct 23, 2003 | 07:31 AM
  #23  
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On certain torque specs I like to torque just a bit more. especially high rpm engines. The work shop manuals is giving torque specs for factory rebuilds. most of the engines I build are modded. Another torque spec that I torque just a bit more is the tension bolts. factory specs calls for 27-29 ft/lbs of torque I'll torque to 32 ft.lbs. Is just a bit more torque to try and keep the engine from twisting on some loads. it helps for light boost like 15 to 25lbs of boost. but when your going to build and engine that will run 32 to 40lbs of boost I would say pin or extra dowel the engine.
Old Oct 23, 2003 | 11:49 AM
  #24  
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15-25 psi=light boost application
Old Oct 24, 2003 | 02:45 PM
  #25  
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lol, i wonder how many people here would consider 25psi to be "light" boost
Old Oct 24, 2003 | 03:58 PM
  #26  
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Thanks everyone, this really helps. Im glad to see everybody's opinion on motor specs. All I have to do now is buy the tool and learn to use them. the shop manual is a bit "confusing"(internet manuel). I have one more question; in the shop manuel it gives notes of min/max clearences, what if its near max or close too, what do you do? Is it just a decision thing?
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