How Mahy Of You Actually Check Everything.
10-20-2003, 03:48 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 60
jspecracer, how mild does your motors last? Im not tryn to be half-***, it just that I didnt think that I would be able to afford the tools( I dont now how to use them anyway). Im geting the video tomorow and i see if it helps any. So do you guy check clearences before or after the cleaning stage?
10-20-2003, 11:21 PM
#15
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 4,928
Originally Posted by 93redfd' date='Oct 21 2003, 05:48 AM
jspecracer, how mild does your motors last? Im not tryn to be half-***, it just that I didnt think that I would be able to afford the tools( I dont now how to use them anyway). Im geting the video tomorow and i see if it helps any. So do you guy check clearences before or after the cleaning stage?
Most of my "blown" engine's was because of tuning/mechanical failure...not clearance issues:
Engine 1) Swapped the front/rear trailing wires...so the rear trailing would fire on the front....right onto the APEX SEAL
Engine 2) Wastegate line got too close to the manifold causing it to melt. The end effect? Caused my wastegate NOT to open and make the turbo boost 2.6 kilos boost(~ 37 psi)
Engine 3) Tuned 10.2 a/f...Exhaust temps were over 1000C
Right now, I've finished tuning to 1.1 kilos boost on my T-45S...shifting at 9000 rpms and at the top of 4th gear, getting roughly 920C EGTs. I would probably get lower EGTs if I shifted at 8000 rpms...but I've got a BFT(big ******* turbo)...so I've got plenty of more power past 8k. I'll go to 1.3 kilos boost(19 psi) as soon as I get water injection in....then I'm going to try boosting 1.5 on WI and "pump" gas
All my Engine rebuilds should have took me about 4 days each to pull the engine, disassemble, clean/assemble, replace engine. I spent a day or two porting engine number 3 for the cosmo 13B, but ended up having problems with the intercooler piping.
I don't check clearnaces with used parts, especially used parts that have already been checked before. HOWEVER, it's your engine. Check what you think you need to check. All the clearancing is necessary on NEW parts, but on used parts that have been broken in...I don't check.
10-22-2003, 09:48 AM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NJ USA
Posts: 1,915
Let me see how I could help in this thread without scaring a bit. Checking engine parts and clearance before engine assembly is very vital to the long life of the engine. I have learned that certain engine applications demand more or less clearances in comparison to each other. For example a non turbo engine vs a turbo engine vs a nitrous oxide engine. all 3 of these engine demand different type of clearances for reliability factors. Checking ever single clearance sometimes is a pain in the @#$@$# but don't take no short cuts. In the long run it pays to check all parts and clearances.
1) check the side housings with a straight edge for warpping.
2)check the rotor housing width vs the apex seals width vs the rotor width.
3)check your rotor bearing clearance to eccentric shaft journals. in this particular area more attetion is need it when your building a high rpm all motor engine like a bridgeport or a P-port.
4)check your sideseal to corner seal gap.
5)check your sideseal to the sideseal groove inside the rotor. Ill give a nice tip here .0015 of an inch works lovely.
6)check your apex seal to rotor groove clearance.
7)check your corner seals to rotor groove. if you dont have the tool just make sure they dont get stuck and move about freely.
8)Make sure your oil seal springs are properly installed,they are dirrectional.
9)clean the tension bolt threads on the front plate(side housing) with a 1.00mmx10mm tap
10) torque every single engine bolt I mean every one. from your front and rear stationary gear bolts to your oil pump bolts to your tension bolts,timing cover bolts,pressure plate bolts oil pan bolts,water pump bolts. intake manifold bolts.
I hope I did not scare a bit, but this is the way I have found great results. Happy Haloween....:-)
1) check the side housings with a straight edge for warpping.
2)check the rotor housing width vs the apex seals width vs the rotor width.
3)check your rotor bearing clearance to eccentric shaft journals. in this particular area more attetion is need it when your building a high rpm all motor engine like a bridgeport or a P-port.
4)check your sideseal to corner seal gap.
5)check your sideseal to the sideseal groove inside the rotor. Ill give a nice tip here .0015 of an inch works lovely.
6)check your apex seal to rotor groove clearance.
7)check your corner seals to rotor groove. if you dont have the tool just make sure they dont get stuck and move about freely.
8)Make sure your oil seal springs are properly installed,they are dirrectional.
9)clean the tension bolt threads on the front plate(side housing) with a 1.00mmx10mm tap
10) torque every single engine bolt I mean every one. from your front and rear stationary gear bolts to your oil pump bolts to your tension bolts,timing cover bolts,pressure plate bolts oil pan bolts,water pump bolts. intake manifold bolts.
I hope I did not scare a bit, but this is the way I have found great results. Happy Haloween....:-)
10-22-2003, 09:57 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NJ USA
Posts: 1,915
Forgot to add torque the flywheel bolt to 375tf.lbs of torque. If you don't have the torque wrench by one. The way I figure is if your building one engine your going to be rebuilding many more, whether is your own or different ones. So go and buy tools...
10-22-2003, 09:02 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Okinawa Japan at McDonalds
Posts: 472
Originally Posted by Judge Ito' date='Oct 22 2003, 11:57 PM
Forgot to add torque the flywheel bolt to 375tf.lbs of torque. If you don't have the torque wrench by one. The way I figure is if your building one engine your going to be rebuilding many more, whether is your own or different ones. So go and buy tools...
