Rotary Extreme 99spec Front End Group Buy
#32
Yeah, more pictures coming up today after test fitment.
Chuck
Chuck
Originally Posted by montego' date='Dec 17 2004, 08:59 AM
#34
Man, it looks great without the plate holder. Much cleaner, more aggressive look. Definitely a great idea to omit it from this mold.
Chuck, I'm perfectly OK with shipment after the new year, for the reasons specified in my PMs with you. Thanx!
I'll be upgrading my stock oil cooler setup in the future, but I'm sure I'll be able to modify the stock ducts with this bumper to work when that happens.
Chuck, I'm perfectly OK with shipment after the new year, for the reasons specified in my PMs with you. Thanx!
I'll be upgrading my stock oil cooler setup in the future, but I'm sure I'll be able to modify the stock ducts with this bumper to work when that happens.
#35
Today I test fitted it on another car. There are a few things:
The underpanel can bolt onto the bottom of the bumper but you do need to drill some more holes. Some holes on the underpanel is off by about 1/4-1/2"
The bumper rebar fits fine just with the sides cut off. The bumper is pretty sturdy with the bumper rebar on there.
There are marks on the bottom of the bumper for you to drill out and attach the factory stock bumper U-nuts on there for you to bolt on the lip and underpanel. Some of the holes for the driver side under lip is about 1/4" off. Maybe it's due to the urethane shrinking after it cures. So when you attach the bottom lip, test fit first to mark the holes before you drill.
The stock bumper has metal brackets for the headlight portion and for the fender portion. I didn't put the stock brackets onto this new bumper because the bumper belongs to the customer. When you install this bumper, you can unbolt the stock metal brackets and bolt onto the new bumper. That's going to make the gap between the fender and the bumper even smaller.
More photos:
The underpanel can bolt onto the bottom of the bumper but you do need to drill some more holes. Some holes on the underpanel is off by about 1/4-1/2"
The bumper rebar fits fine just with the sides cut off. The bumper is pretty sturdy with the bumper rebar on there.
There are marks on the bottom of the bumper for you to drill out and attach the factory stock bumper U-nuts on there for you to bolt on the lip and underpanel. Some of the holes for the driver side under lip is about 1/4" off. Maybe it's due to the urethane shrinking after it cures. So when you attach the bottom lip, test fit first to mark the holes before you drill.
The stock bumper has metal brackets for the headlight portion and for the fender portion. I didn't put the stock brackets onto this new bumper because the bumper belongs to the customer. When you install this bumper, you can unbolt the stock metal brackets and bolt onto the new bumper. That's going to make the gap between the fender and the bumper even smaller.
More photos:
#37
Those look outstanding! I am thrilled to see images. Thank you Chuck for sharing the mounting pointers. Any chance you wanna test fit one with a greedy front mount? J/K I say take your time. No need in rushing art.
#38
the bumper looks great so far
and WTF put that picture into my last post. i dont know who that person is or where it was taken, but i dont think it was funny. if somebody was trying to say that the backyard **** pictured in that photo is anything like the facilities at SJR, then they're sadly mistaken. we have IMO THE nicest facilities of any of the tri-state rotary shops. no offense to other shops, but i dont like what that picture implys and i'd appreciate if whoever attached it would remove it
and WTF put that picture into my last post. i dont know who that person is or where it was taken, but i dont think it was funny. if somebody was trying to say that the backyard **** pictured in that photo is anything like the facilities at SJR, then they're sadly mistaken. we have IMO THE nicest facilities of any of the tri-state rotary shops. no offense to other shops, but i dont like what that picture implys and i'd appreciate if whoever attached it would remove it
#40
Originally Posted by rotaryextreme' date='Dec 17 2004, 07:27 PM
The bumper rebar fits fine just with the sides cut off. The bumper is pretty sturdy with the bumper rebar on there.
More photos:
More photos:
So, you would recommend cutting off the ends rather than enlarging the light openings?