Although you have water injection , I think you should still be conservative with the timing , this is how I run with no more than 12 deg advance in the peak torque area with water injection.Some very experienced tuners have said time and time again that rotarys don't respond to ignition advance like our counterparts , advancing the timing just a few degrees results in a slight increase in power but greatly reduces the safety margin , one even said that he has ended up at 0 degrees advance and has seen no substantial loss in power compared to running with the timing advanced . After the torque peak I started advancing mine till I got to about 17 degrees and 750 - 800 deg C on my exhaust temperature . I use water as a safety , not as a performance enhancer , if I need more I just crank up the boost., just my 2 cents .

 

looks good!

 

Wtf Van? Why did you go with that IC?

 

idk...I wanted to try something different. If it doesn't work out to my liking...I can get rid of it.

 

That looks sick how can you guys get the rebuild kits so cheap. They cant weigh that much how come you guys cant mail em over?

 

I had spare rotors that I checked all the clearances on so I used those rotors. I bought new rotor bearings and re-used the side/corner/apex seals. All I needed was an O-ring kit.

 

I don't know what to say.That pic makes me all fuzzy inside. Good work

 

Probably not the best idea. The new Atkins seals are NOT OEM spec material. The coefficient of expansion is higher than the corresponding OEM units. If you want to keep the Atkins seals from seizing when heated, you will have to use factory spec widest slot tolerances as the minimum width tolerance for use with the Atkins seals.



Want to ask me how I know?

 

Looks good Van.