Car Fixed
03-10-2004, 01:05 AM
#71
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: London, Ontario
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The lower plug/wire that you broke is the fan thermoswitch. It is NOT used for by the ECU and is NOT used by the gauge. Mine was broken and my PFC could read temperature fine and my gauge worked as well. The fans won't come on full speed unless you've rewired them.
You can see in the diagrams that the fan thermoswitch has a black / red wire coming in and the component itself is grounded directly to the car, so it only has the one wire.
You can see in the diagrams that the fan thermoswitch has a black / red wire coming in and the component itself is grounded directly to the car, so it only has the one wire.
03-10-2004, 06:31 AM
#72
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 127
Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete' date='Mar 9 2004, 09:55 PM
i have a really good map for a street/race port w/single or non-seq. on hand. If you want me to email it to you let me know.
Justin
Try the low end leaning out procedures I wrote about earlier. That should cut down on the richness and help with the idle problem. Fine tuning is only effective with a car you can drive.
BTW, Tyson is correct. If you broke the thermosensor connector wire, that does go to the fan relays not the ecu. Still needs to be fixed immediately to avoid possible overheating problems, it just isn't going to matter to the tuning or smoothing out of the idle.
03-10-2004, 08:02 AM
#73
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Location: Frederick MD
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Originally Posted by rfreeman27' date='Mar 9 2004, 11:01 PM
Justin
This may be your problem. The fuel pumps CANNOT be touching any metal. They will ground out and **** **** up in the car. I know because i did the same thing, and i couldnt keep the car at a steady idle. The fuel pressure would still build, but it cant keep up.
Also, i have been reccomended away from using a "y" fitting. I am going to change around my fuel setup a little bit, and run two feed lines to the front of the car (using the stock feed and the charcole canister line)
then run each line to a rail, then from the rails to the FPR.
This may be your problem. The fuel pumps CANNOT be touching any metal. They will ground out and **** **** up in the car. I know because i did the same thing, and i couldnt keep the car at a steady idle. The fuel pressure would still build, but it cant keep up.
Also, i have been reccomended away from using a "y" fitting. I am going to change around my fuel setup a little bit, and run two feed lines to the front of the car (using the stock feed and the charcole canister line)
then run each line to a rail, then from the rails to the FPR.
I know there are people that dont agree with the Y either... However, I don't really think I'm going to be shooting for over 500 right away, so I'd imagine I'll survive.. I've cranked it up to like 100psi and it held just fine..
So, you're eliminating the canister? I don't know much about that...
Oh, FYI those pumps don't fit in the tank like in the picture.. LOL
03-10-2004, 08:06 AM
#74
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Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Mar 10 2004, 01:05 AM
The lower plug/wire that you broke is the fan thermoswitch. It is NOT used for by the ECU and is NOT used by the gauge. Mine was broken and my PFC could read temperature fine and my gauge worked as well. The fans won't come on full speed unless you've rewired them.
You can see in the diagrams that the fan thermoswitch has a black / red wire coming in and the component itself is grounded directly to the car, so it only has the one wire.
You can see in the diagrams that the fan thermoswitch has a black / red wire coming in and the component itself is grounded directly to the car, so it only has the one wire.
03-10-2004, 08:10 AM
#75
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Location: Frederick MD
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Originally Posted by rx794' date='Mar 9 2004, 11:34 PM
I told you, your problem with the idle WILL NOT GO AWAY UNTIL YOU TUNE IT!!!!!!, I'll repeat myself again, you need to tune the idle area of the fuel map with the datalogit, I'll try to get Boostn7 to explain, he's the only guy I know that knows the PFC like the back of his hand, and is willing to help.
Every thread I've searched, people have managed to smooth the idle over time with the TB settings... I figured I'd try..
03-10-2004, 08:17 AM
#76
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Location: London, Ontario
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Originally Posted by 9BASE3' date='Mar 10 2004, 09:06 AM
Hmmm.. Interesting. So, now I REALLY wonder why my temp gauge is INOP.. 
03-10-2004, 09:00 AM
#77
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Location: Frederick MD
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Originally Posted by jeff48920' date='Mar 10 2004, 06:31 AM
Justin has 850's in his primaries and 1600s in the secondaries. Maps for other configuarations will be only minimally useful but sharing is always appreciated.
Justin
Try the low end leaning out procedures I wrote about earlier. That should cut down on the richness and help with the idle problem. Fine tuning is only effective with a car you can drive.
BTW, Tyson is correct. If you broke the thermosensor connector wire, that does go to the fan relays not the ecu. Still needs to be fixed immediately to avoid possible overheating problems, it just isn't going to matter to the tuning or smoothing out of the idle.
Justin
Try the low end leaning out procedures I wrote about earlier. That should cut down on the richness and help with the idle problem. Fine tuning is only effective with a car you can drive.
BTW, Tyson is correct. If you broke the thermosensor connector wire, that does go to the fan relays not the ecu. Still needs to be fixed immediately to avoid possible overheating problems, it just isn't going to matter to the tuning or smoothing out of the idle.
I'm not comfortable messing with the settings just yet.. I'm trying to get familiar w/the PFC first.. Maybe you can help..
I jsut want to make sure I have all my bases covered before I waste your time coming here to fix my POS.. You know what I mean?
I appreciate the time for all the help. From EVERYONE!
03-10-2004, 09:21 AM
#78
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Frederick MD
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Originally Posted by twinturborx7pete' date='Mar 9 2004, 11:55 PM
the red light on the temp guage will stay on until you hook up the temp sensor.. because the light also comes on when you car is "overheating" so with no read... it will be on.
As rx794 said, you need a good map to run a ported engine or it will idle like **** and do a lot of other things like ****.. make sure all your settings are correct for your fuel injectors and such.. just get it on a dyno and start tuning it. i have a really good map for a street/race port w/single or non-seq. on hand. If you want me to email it to you let me know.
As rx794 said, you need a good map to run a ported engine or it will idle like **** and do a lot of other things like ****.. make sure all your settings are correct for your fuel injectors and such.. just get it on a dyno and start tuning it. i have a really good map for a street/race port w/single or non-seq. on hand. If you want me to email it to you let me know.
jdhuegel1@aol.com
Thanks a bundle!
03-10-2004, 02:25 PM
#79
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 127
Originally Posted by 9BASE3' date='Mar 10 2004, 07:00 AM
I'm not comfortable messing with the settings just yet.. I'm trying to get familiar w/the PFC first.. Maybe you can help.