jeff48920

Well, damn it looks like I was wrong (for about the 1000th time today) and the iluvmyrx7.com site DOES have the electrical manual. Here is the important part. It also looks like the coolant level sensor DOES hookup to the CPU at pin 3D which should be a BR/W wire. Good Luck

9BASE3

twinturborx7pete was right... It was down by the plugs.. On the OTHER harness! I didn't even reallize I unhooked it.. Oh well, I hooked it up and the goddamn buzzer shut off. The damn light is still on though.. I think that *may* be somehow related to the thermosensor being unhooked..



More news: I HAD the car running without the surge.. It was loping a bit, but it's just the port I think.. I had to tighten the Idle Air Screw all the damn way in, and back off the idle screw (Front of TB) all the way... It ran fine until I tapped the gas.. Then the surge came back.. But smoothed out a bit. NOW I can't get it to smooth back out. Think I might reset the PFC and start over..



ALSO: While the car is idling, and surging the fuel pressure needle is flipping out.. It does it on the down part of the surge.. (I think?) I'll go fire it up and check..

9BASE3

Ok.. WTF?? I fired it up and it ran FINE.. until I touched the gas.. Then the surging came back.. Well, the needle spazzing is on the upward part of the surge.



Oh, and it's running RRRIIICCCCCCCCHHH.

pengaru

if you have a vacuum gauge you should be able to observe the same pattern as the fuel pressure gauge.... the fuel pressure gauge is just displaying the varying fuel pressure; a product of the varying vacuum @ idle; a product of your porting and poorly tuned state



if the vac gauge doesnt display a similar pattern as the fuel pressure gauge then something strange is going on with the fuel pressure regulator, but I doubt that is the case. My car is similar with a lopey idle, fuel pressure gauge surges a bit and so does the vacuum @ idle.

9BASE3

Sounds close.. But it's not nearly as bad on the vaccum gauge as it is on the FPR.. It flips between 45-55 VERY fast.. like buzzing between them.. On the decel, its rock solid on 50ish..



SO.. Fuel pressure is fluctuating during acceleration. When the idle is smooth, the fluctuating needle is constant. Could it have anything to do with the 850s? Tuning?

andynogo

Sorry to butt in after the fact, but just making sure that we are all clear on what sensor is what. The one on the front of the filler with the black wire with red/brown bands is the coolant level sensor.



On the back of the water pump, you have the water thermosensor, which is an on/off switch that I think is part of the fan circuit. This has 2 wires attached to it. The other is the coolant temperature sensor and only has one wire from it. This one does indeed go to the ECU at pin 3E (green with white tracer). I have been sorting all mine out for my Microtech installation and the green/white wire is definitely the temp sensor which your computer needs. The computer then sends a signal out to the processing unit in the dash and on to the temp guage.



As for your level warning light staying on with the buzzer off?????????? Sorry, no idea.

9BASE3

Well, the plug with the 1 wire broke.. So it's not hooked up. The wire must change color somewhere though, cause the wire connecting to the sensor is Black and red...

rfreeman27

Justin



This may be your problem. The fuel pumps CANNOT be touching any metal. They will ground out and **** **** up in the car. I know because i did the same thing, and i couldnt keep the car at a steady idle. The fuel pressure would still build, but it cant keep up.



'



You should make a rubber sleve out of heater hose or something to protect them. I need to do that too.



Also, i have been reccomended away from using a "y" fitting. I am going to change around my fuel setup a little bit, and run two feed lines to the front of the car (using the stock feed and the charcole canister line)



then run each line to a rail, then from the rails to the FPR.

rx794

I told you, your problem with the idle WILL NOT GO AWAY UNTIL YOU TUNE IT!!!!!!, I'll repeat myself again, you need to tune the idle area of the fuel map with the datalogit, I'll try to get Boostn7 to explain, he's the only guy I know that knows the PFC like the back of his hand, and is willing to help.

twinturborx7pete

the red light on the temp guage will stay on until you hook up the temp sensor.. because the light also comes on when you car is "overheating" so with no read... it will be on.



As rx794 said, you need a good map to run a ported engine or it will idle like **** and do a lot of other things like ****.. make sure all your settings are correct for your fuel injectors and such.. just get it on a dyno and start tuning it. i have a really good map for a street/race port w/single or non-seq. on hand. If you want me to email it to you let me know.