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time for a long overdo update.



Manifold is done, fab of the airbox has started, Ring and Pinion will be shipped back to me tommorow.



I also checked clearance for the airbox by cutting apart a spare tII Hood I had laying around. Pics of that later





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Is this the car your bringing to the retreat?



I cannot wait to see this thing in person and see it run. Nice work!!

its the car I plan on bringing. I may have to make some concessions to get it there though

ooo ****! n/a powwa baby. i love it! can't wait to hear that bitch idle.

make it run already

PATIENCE GRASSHOPPER!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

you need NAWS!!

send me one of those SDJ headers so i can make a copy..lol

I can't screw Stan over like that, I know how much work and testing went into that beast

Very nice setup.

i know j/k around

AAAHHHH the joys of being an ****-RETENTIVE Design Professional. Since I live by the MANTRA:"Why would I buy something for $20 when I can make it for $75.00!"



I am fabricating my new fuel rails; for two reasons:

1. Why not

2. The fuel rails that came with the TB from Aussiland will not work with my airbox





NOW: onto the dilemma I measure the Fuel Injector bore on the Aussie Rails as 0.430". So I order my ream to replicate this hole. Now My maching capabilities in the shop are very limited as our most peoples. So I visit my welding and fab forum to confirm my process. And low and behold who pops in but Mike-LMR to provide the missing tidbit of information I needed. He provided me the link to the injector dimensional drawings.



NOW the real fun begins. It appears that the injector rails I used as my template are a little sloppy on their manufacturing tolerances. The correct bore size is .425" nominal/.427" max.



So now I need to order ANOTHER Reamer (These things aren't cheap)..



I hope this provides a little insight into why it takes a while to accomplish something as seemingly simple as drilling 2 holes in a length of extruded Aluminum.



BANZAI

I don't think you need to ream the holes Banzai. Just drilling generally doesn't leak.

I drill a test set (ACTUALLY I TRASHED 8" of Fuel rail) of holes the other day and the fit is ATROCIOUS!



Now in all fairness the bit used was from the Harbor Freight Cheapie 115 piece set. I have since ordered a couple of new bits (Triumph Brand)



I also need to check the runout on the drill press and make sure thats not contributing to the hole size creep.



Unfortunately I do not have a complete Metric Drill Index. The safest solution to this problem is to drill undersize and ream to fit.



The ultimate solution is to obtain/gain access to a good Knee mill with the benefits of rigidity and close tolerances, instead of my drill press. All in good time

I agree. I forgot to clarify, I've only seen drilling injector pockets WITH a mill.



Reaming with a sloppy drill press probably won't go that well either though.........

Which is why I do have a contigency plan. If my test holes fail. I just pack up my toys and go over to the tech school and use their Mill.

work faster! you have a dedicated barn for your car. I have a frozen 1/2 garage.



btw becareful about the tech school equipment. Some of them are pure crap with dead bearings and runout that would make holes drilled by a hand drill look precise

Trust me, Test holes in scrap and a quick runout check are the order of the day





BTW: Tuesday nite I had a 120,000 BTU kerosene space heater and a 100K Propane radiant heater and I was still cold in SC!

Kahren was interested in how far the injectors were from the port: ~ 5.75"



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In order to check clearance available for the Airbox I cut up a TII hood I had laying around





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no i was intersted in how long the runners were, from the rotor housings to the end of the flare on the horn. seems to me about 10-11 inches

Thats about right. I'll give you a measurement tonight, out to make Fuel Rails'

heater? screw that, that is what flash light, 4 layers of clothes + coveralls and two pairs of gloves are for.



My life sux, all i have left is my car. Hope ISCRacing.net is going to make me happy

KAHREN: 10.5"



Did a test hole. Runout was .001" https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

That's good enough now start wrenching! Work faster, you might inspire me to go finish up the suspension on my car

This car will be ready in 3 weeks huh??



Get off the internets and get to work!!

What are you, a menopausal woman? I was just working on mine in -16C with only a 3K BTU heater which I think is defective! Fleece pullover and long sleeved shirt.

pull over





No, but thank you it's a cartigan

Monday night I am making a trip to SDJ Motorsports to drop off the Ring and Pinion for assembly.

you can't do it yourself?

I could, but I dont have a ready assortment of shims available. Stan has all the Jigs and Purpose built measurement tools. So its a case of its easier to watch the pro. I sent the Ring and Pinion off to be cryo-treated and micro-polished. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Its getting all new bearings installed. It is also getting a BRAND-NEW S4 LSD unit, straight from the Mazda OEM packing. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png







On a slightly different note. Just placed the order for the diffential guts from MAZDACOMP: $225 for all the bearings and seals https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png

You actually bothered to waste money on cryo treating? I thought u were an engineer. Brand new S4 LSD? wow big $$$$



I'm a little surprised how much the bearings were. You could've just gone to a bearing supplier or order through NTN or SKF or seomthing. Just give them your old bearings, they can match them up for 40% cheaper than going through mazda most of the time. Mazda doesn't make teh bearings. Only car i've heard where you can't do that is Porsche and bearings on a honda motorcycle.

You are partially correct on the bearings. I have heard from a couple of tranny rebuilders (SCCA Types) where the OEM Spec Bearings are "Tighter" than the General stock bearings. I have been thru the porsche only bearing fiasco on the rear hub bearings for the 914-6. Even had the NTN part number and they couldnt cross-reference it. :(



The cryo treatment is an experiment. Who knows?

im with cheers i have half a garage it is -20 and im doing a motor swap lol 4 sets of cloths and a insulated pair of overalls im warm lol

I can't remember how the NTN part numebr system works, but you can buy bearings that are under or oversized in increments of 1 thou? for the ID/OD of the bearing. I can't remember if it's 1 thou, could be bigger number, 5 thou?



cryo treat is BS... u should've used your money to graph lexan into the rear hatch frame.

Gears arrived today, New Hardware for the clutch came, and the other ream for the Fuel injectors. Busy weekend ahead!

ok today, i dropped the entire rear subframe, removed both lower control arms, removed the subframe link (the top bolt took me two hours to remove it was seized...)



Noticed that the rear diff bushings weren't so hot, and that my lateral lnks were surprisingly in good shape.



So banzai, what did you do today?



One more question, anyone know how many turns a typical adjustable subframe link has that racingbeat or mazdatrix sells?

the aftermarket bearings arent as good. the factory bearings (for the trans anyways) have been updated and the aftermarket ones arent

yeah there was a recall on the transmission bearings and i think 2nd gear syncros too

yeah its a bulletin

Is that why Ive broken so many of them?



nah, its probably how I drive...