20b In A Glc
06-29-2003, 12:28 PM
#42
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The intake manifold and stock oil pan on a 20B would fit in the Midget. NA mode with either fuel injection, or a carb on a peejay box plenum. The length also isn't too bad. Since there is no room for the engine to go forward, it will need to go back. Only where the tranny mounts would need to be cut apart and widened. Also the starter would most likely need to be relocated to the top and a different kind of slave cylinder used. Lastly, the passenger's foot box would need some serious reworking to fit the rear rotor's exhaust pipe. Don't forget about the shifter having to be moved back by 160mm. Yes, I've already considered a 20B Midget. 
06-29-2003, 06:41 PM
#44
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You got that right.
I just found out I'm not the only one doing a 20B GLC. There's a guy called ZLAKLR that's also doing one (323). I'm going to try to get him to check out this thread and maybe we can exchange ideas. Too bad I have to do a 13B first to get it registered. Ausies know what that's like (getting cars registered there is tougher than here).
I just found out I'm not the only one doing a 20B GLC. There's a guy called ZLAKLR that's also doing one (323). I'm going to try to get him to check out this thread and maybe we can exchange ideas. Too bad I have to do a 13B first to get it registered. Ausies know what that's like (getting cars registered there is tougher than here).
06-30-2003, 01:33 PM
#46
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I need to use an impact gun on the front bolt because my 10 foot extension bent my angle iron that was bolted to the motor mount. If it stops raining today, I'll be able to take it over to a shop that has air tools.
07-01-2003, 12:55 AM
#48
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I'll be using a '74-'85 front motor mount. I've got an '84-'85 12A front cover (complete with 12A turbo oil return casting undrilled) to use. It just needs some cleanup. I don't trust the front cover to handle much more than 200HP, and an NA 20B is a bit over that. It'll probably be ok though, since the torque won't be much more than say like 180ftlbs or something like that.
I got that 'cap nut' off of the 20B with an impact gun today. Man, it was on there tight! It seemed much tighter than the 54mm nuts on the back of our engines. Mazda used some sort of thread locking sealant like I've seen on some 19mm front bolts I've removed. A good trick to do is to use silicone sealant because it's better than installing it dry. Well, it's ok to use on 19mm bolts that is. I've got some Hylomar that I guess I could use... Or maybe I'll just use a dab of silicone again. However, with the threads being on the outside of the E shaft, it means there is a chance that the cap nut could come loose. I'll be tightening this cap nut with an impact gun, for sure.
Now the 20B's front cover is off and as soon as I clean up my 12A front cover, it's going on. Just gotta clean all the old gasket material off the engine and make sure to use some hylomar on the teflon ring like the guy at Mazdatrix said. I've got a '74-'85 front cover gasket to use, but I'd rather use silicone instead, like Mazdatrix's FAQ recommends. http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm The Mazdatrix guy said that the O ring is not needed so I didn't order a new one. Now I'm starting to think that I could go ahead and reuse the old one if I goop it all up with hylomar. The teflon ring looks good, and doesn't harden with age. I also have a brand new one to use if necessary. I'll figure it out.
I got that 'cap nut' off of the 20B with an impact gun today. Man, it was on there tight! It seemed much tighter than the 54mm nuts on the back of our engines. Mazda used some sort of thread locking sealant like I've seen on some 19mm front bolts I've removed. A good trick to do is to use silicone sealant because it's better than installing it dry. Well, it's ok to use on 19mm bolts that is. I've got some Hylomar that I guess I could use... Or maybe I'll just use a dab of silicone again. However, with the threads being on the outside of the E shaft, it means there is a chance that the cap nut could come loose. I'll be tightening this cap nut with an impact gun, for sure.
Now the 20B's front cover is off and as soon as I clean up my 12A front cover, it's going on. Just gotta clean all the old gasket material off the engine and make sure to use some hylomar on the teflon ring like the guy at Mazdatrix said. I've got a '74-'85 front cover gasket to use, but I'd rather use silicone instead, like Mazdatrix's FAQ recommends. http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm The Mazdatrix guy said that the O ring is not needed so I didn't order a new one. Now I'm starting to think that I could go ahead and reuse the old one if I goop it all up with hylomar. The teflon ring looks good, and doesn't harden with age. I also have a brand new one to use if necessary. I'll figure it out.
07-02-2003, 12:12 PM
#50
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It's just a little personal theory I've been thinking about since the first time I thought of installing an FB cover on a 20B or any other high powered rotary. What you say is incouraging.
I cleaned the front cover as best as I could (it's got some really stubborn grunge that actually matches the 20B in places, so I'll leave it alone for now). It seems to fit the 20B like it was designed to. There's just a slight possiblilty that I'll need to trim it where a front tension bolt head looks like it's in the way. The front cover seems to stand off of the engine a little, but there is still some old gasket material on the engine mounting surface. I'll know more after it's been scraped clean. I need a decent gasket scraper.
The timing pins on the front covers are so close that I'll call them even. The only difference is their distance from the pulley. Since the 20B pulley is larger in diameter, the 20B front cover's pin is further away from the E shaft. The FB cover's pin is actually under the 20B pulley, so I can still line it up.
Here's a question for all you 20B people out there. Is a 20B normally advanced by 5 or 6 degrees compared to a 13B at the same RPM?
I have an FC pulley that will work with my FB front cover. With the E shaft right at 0º (the L mark) on the 20B pulley, I swapped the FC pulley in and its L mark is 5 or 6mm (degrees, heheh) to the left (towards the intake exhaust side of the engine). To get the FC L mark to line up to the pin, I'd have to crank the E shaft clockwise a little.
To keep it simple, I'll assume that the difference is 5º between the two pullies. Since the 20B is a turbo engine, and my FC pulley came from an NA engine, could this be the reason for the 5º offset? Also, I need to mark my pulley every 120º. Should I use the FC's L mark as a starting point? Or should I go 5mm advanced to keep it all 20Bish and go from there?
I cleaned the front cover as best as I could (it's got some really stubborn grunge that actually matches the 20B in places, so I'll leave it alone for now). It seems to fit the 20B like it was designed to. There's just a slight possiblilty that I'll need to trim it where a front tension bolt head looks like it's in the way. The front cover seems to stand off of the engine a little, but there is still some old gasket material on the engine mounting surface. I'll know more after it's been scraped clean. I need a decent gasket scraper.
The timing pins on the front covers are so close that I'll call them even. The only difference is their distance from the pulley. Since the 20B pulley is larger in diameter, the 20B front cover's pin is further away from the E shaft. The FB cover's pin is actually under the 20B pulley, so I can still line it up.
Here's a question for all you 20B people out there. Is a 20B normally advanced by 5 or 6 degrees compared to a 13B at the same RPM?
I have an FC pulley that will work with my FB front cover. With the E shaft right at 0º (the L mark) on the 20B pulley, I swapped the FC pulley in and its L mark is 5 or 6mm (degrees, heheh) to the left (towards the intake exhaust side of the engine). To get the FC L mark to line up to the pin, I'd have to crank the E shaft clockwise a little.
To keep it simple, I'll assume that the difference is 5º between the two pullies. Since the 20B is a turbo engine, and my FC pulley came from an NA engine, could this be the reason for the 5º offset? Also, I need to mark my pulley every 120º. Should I use the FC's L mark as a starting point? Or should I go 5mm advanced to keep it all 20Bish and go from there?