20b In A Glc
06-24-2003, 11:53 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
You know, the funny thing is my GLC may actually qualify as a Grassroots Motorsports $2,00x Challenge car. My budget limits me to a very small amount of money. If I can come in at under $2003, I'll be doing pretty well. 
This is what's been spent so far:
Car - $0
20B - $600 + 190 SH = $790.00
front eccentric seal - $3.72
pilot bearing - $9.37
pilot seal - $2.41
FC waterpump and fan- $65 on eBay
Still need to spend:
radiator - $200
fuel pump - around $100?
carb - $300-$400
manifold mod - ?
driveshaft shortened - $100
light steel flywheel 215/225mm - $260
exhaust - $44 hehe
Grand total is $1924.50 give or take $50 for the carb.
I also need to get a welder, but it's not specifically related to the cost of the car, so I can leave it out of the grand total.
What do you think?
This is what's been spent so far:
Car - $0
20B - $600 + 190 SH = $790.00
front eccentric seal - $3.72
pilot bearing - $9.37
pilot seal - $2.41
FC waterpump and fan- $65 on eBay
Still need to spend:
radiator - $200
fuel pump - around $100?
carb - $300-$400
manifold mod - ?
driveshaft shortened - $100
light steel flywheel 215/225mm - $260
exhaust - $44 hehe
Grand total is $1924.50 give or take $50 for the carb.
I also need to get a welder, but it's not specifically related to the cost of the car, so I can leave it out of the grand total.
What do you think?
06-26-2003, 02:49 AM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I finally got the fuel cell in today!
All the nuts are just snug for now, but at least it's in there without needing my floor jack to hold it up. It fits tight up in there. I think it will work ok there if I can sort out the exhaust so it doesn't heat the fuel. Heat shielding? Probably. Or maybe I'll end the exhaust right after the door, but right before the rear tire, kinda like the new Viper. That's perfectly legal. Or I'll route it under the axle like AJC13B did. The cell is too wide to allow the exhaust pipe to fit in the stock location; over the panhard bar mounting crossmember thingy. And what's more, it's on the plug side of the engine, not the intake/exhaust side. Yeah the fuel and brake lines will get heated by the exhaust if I run it on the passenger side of the car. You know, my MG's exhaust crosses over to the driver's side. That's why in the picture, you can see a Rotary Engineering glasspack with the dual Monza tips on the passenger side.
On a sadder note, my friend's 4 port 13B in his REPU overheated.
Now it blows exhaust into the waterjacket. It'll just cost a gasket set, two rotor housings, and some time. This will be my second rebuild, so it should go three times faster than the first, due to the learning curve.
I also got a 32mm socket for the pulley hub on my 20B, so I can swap front covers. I also seem to have a buyer for my oil pan. I'll find out more tomorrow.
All the nuts are just snug for now, but at least it's in there without needing my floor jack to hold it up. It fits tight up in there. I think it will work ok there if I can sort out the exhaust so it doesn't heat the fuel. Heat shielding? Probably. Or maybe I'll end the exhaust right after the door, but right before the rear tire, kinda like the new Viper. That's perfectly legal. Or I'll route it under the axle like AJC13B did. The cell is too wide to allow the exhaust pipe to fit in the stock location; over the panhard bar mounting crossmember thingy. And what's more, it's on the plug side of the engine, not the intake/exhaust side. Yeah the fuel and brake lines will get heated by the exhaust if I run it on the passenger side of the car. You know, my MG's exhaust crosses over to the driver's side. That's why in the picture, you can see a Rotary Engineering glasspack with the dual Monza tips on the passenger side.
On a sadder note, my friend's 4 port 13B in his REPU overheated.
Now it blows exhaust into the waterjacket. It'll just cost a gasket set, two rotor housings, and some time. This will be my second rebuild, so it should go three times faster than the first, due to the learning curve.I also got a 32mm socket for the pulley hub on my 20B, so I can swap front covers. I also seem to have a buyer for my oil pan. I'll find out more tomorrow.
06-27-2003, 02:47 AM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I removed my oil pan today. It's missing one bolt on the front rotor housings. Instead, it has a strip of sheet metal spot welded across the entire length of the rotor housing, and a little past the bolts on either side. I guess this was so the crossmember could wrap around tighter?
I'm also definetly doing a 13B first. Gotta get started porting as soon as the pan and a few other parts are mailed tomorrow. I also need to swap front covers still. Lots of stuff to do...
And now for something a little different, here are some pics of my rotary powered MG. I figured why clutter up the board with my senseless ramblings? Enjoy.
I'm also definetly doing a 13B first. Gotta get started porting as soon as the pan and a few other parts are mailed tomorrow. I also need to swap front covers still. Lots of stuff to do...
And now for something a little different, here are some pics of my rotary powered MG. I figured why clutter up the board with my senseless ramblings? Enjoy.
06-27-2003, 02:52 AM
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Here's another. RX-Midget ought to get a kick out of my trimmed alt bracket. The belt is so short the alt has to be tilted downward just to slip the belt on the pulley. Then it's lifted up a tiny bit to snug it. I had to elongate the slot downward too.
06-27-2003, 06:46 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Westminster, MD
Posts: 368
I like the alt bracket. It looks like it should be some kind of big spark gap
What carb are you using and will it clear the hood?
BTW - the air filter hold downs are very high tech J/K!
So, have you run it yet?
What carb are you using and will it clear the hood?
BTW - the air filter hold downs are very high tech
So, have you run it yet?
06-27-2003, 01:12 PM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
The RX-2 engine was able to clear the hood pretty well. This 4 port 13B needed a few things trimmed. The air filter had to be trimmed around 1/4" and the alt bracket needed almost half removed.
I think the intake manifold sticks up higher. Or the Hitachi carb is taller? I think it's from an RX-4.
The original air filter hold-down bracket rubbed the hood, and broke because it was made from cheap sheet metal. It's a Mr Gasket Co. Street cleaner or something like that. It is very short but I had to trim it to get it to fit on my carb. Now only one of the bungee cords rubs the hood. I'll figure out some sort of spring hold-downs eventually.
Yeah, I ran it last October. I even did a little burn out on a paint line. The fan was too small so I shut the engine off before it got too hot. My solution is to get two 10" fans and mount one on the front, the other on the rear. I also have a thermostatic switch that came out of my REPU set to whatever was best for the REPU, so it should still be ok in the MG.
The hood clears everything.
I think the intake manifold sticks up higher. Or the Hitachi carb is taller? I think it's from an RX-4.
The original air filter hold-down bracket rubbed the hood, and broke because it was made from cheap sheet metal. It's a Mr Gasket Co. Street cleaner or something like that. It is very short but I had to trim it to get it to fit on my carb. Now only one of the bungee cords rubs the hood. I'll figure out some sort of spring hold-downs eventually.
Yeah, I ran it last October. I even did a little burn out on a paint line.
The hood clears everything.
