20b In A Glc
07-03-2003, 02:21 PM
#52
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I got the FB front cover on last night. I also got my first taste of Hylomar.
The guy at Mazdatrix said I could use silicone around the front cover and some hylomar on the teflon ring and omit the O ring. I decided to use a new '74-'85 gasket which I had to cut off the piece that goes to the oil passage because A: it's too small to fit around the teflon ring, and B: because a front tension bolt is in the way. I also decided to resuse the O ring (it was still pliable, so that shows my engine could use a rebuild, but not emidiately), and use a new teflon ring with hylomar.
My reasoning for using a gasket is so when it comes time to rebuild this engine, which may be soon, I won't have to scrape a bunch of silicone off the engine and front cover. This new gasket should still be pliable and hopefully won't get stuck. I spent enough time scraping the old gasket pieces already. Heh, the scraping procedure looked a little like this little dude.
The hylomar should seal the two rings well enough. If not, at least the O ring will be held in place so it won't end up in my oil filter. Hylomar is some interesting goo.
The guy at Mazdatrix said I could use silicone around the front cover and some hylomar on the teflon ring and omit the O ring. I decided to use a new '74-'85 gasket which I had to cut off the piece that goes to the oil passage because A: it's too small to fit around the teflon ring, and B: because a front tension bolt is in the way. I also decided to resuse the O ring (it was still pliable, so that shows my engine could use a rebuild, but not emidiately), and use a new teflon ring with hylomar.
My reasoning for using a gasket is so when it comes time to rebuild this engine, which may be soon, I won't have to scrape a bunch of silicone off the engine and front cover. This new gasket should still be pliable and hopefully won't get stuck. I spent enough time scraping the old gasket pieces already. Heh, the scraping procedure looked a little like this little dude.
The hylomar should seal the two rings well enough. If not, at least the O ring will be held in place so it won't end up in my oil filter.
07-03-2003, 03:32 PM
#54
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I'm thinking only somebody like the HITman would be knowledgeable enough to answer my 5º pulley question. So untill I get an answer, I won't mark my pulley. That should give me enough time to get the rest of the stuff done. Where's j9fd3s when you need him?
I've got a pic of the dizzy I'm going to post here. I also took a couple pics of the front cover swap yesterday. They won't get developed untill the roll is finished.
One of my piston powered cars is getting listed in the paper today. Hopefully it will sell soon.
Other than a yardstick in the engine bay, does anyone else have any picture requests? That reminds me, I've got to take a pic of the fuel cell.
I've got a pic of the dizzy I'm going to post here. I also took a couple pics of the front cover swap yesterday. They won't get developed untill the roll is finished.
One of my piston powered cars is getting listed in the paper today. Hopefully it will sell soon.
Other than a yardstick in the engine bay, does anyone else have any picture requests? That reminds me, I've got to take a pic of the fuel cell.
07-03-2003, 11:16 PM
#55
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Ok, just a quick update.
I'm currently in the middle of making an oil pan template. I just needed to fire up the computer for some pics of oil baffle plates and thought I'd update my thread a little. I've had good luck with another template recently. It was for the fuel cell and ended up being offset by like 1mm or so. Heh, not bad for 'fudge factor' I must say. (heh I'm reminded of Ed Grimly... which reminds me that the new Ren and Stimpy Adult party cartoon comes on tonight at 10PM on TNN... nice seguey huh?). My next move will be to place the template over some 1/8" aluminum and start marking it out for cutting and drilling. Something tells me maybe I should use steel, but I've got an old style 4 port 13B oil pan to use, so it should offer enough strength mounted at the front of the engine. I think maybe I'll need some washers on the back bolts, or maybe not.
Oh yeah, j9fd3s is in France right now. I can wait a while to mark my pulley.
I'm currently in the middle of making an oil pan template. I just needed to fire up the computer for some pics of oil baffle plates and thought I'd update my thread a little. I've had good luck with another template recently. It was for the fuel cell and ended up being offset by like 1mm or so. Heh, not bad for 'fudge factor' I must say.
Oh yeah, j9fd3s is in France right now.
07-04-2003, 09:56 PM
#57
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Regular old FB '81-'85 dizzy with six pickups and two reluctors. Since Trailing does almost nothing when you've got 0&180 Leading sparks, I won't even bother with it. The three trailing pickups will come off and two will go into one of my gutted dizzies so I don't have to buy another one.
Here is something I wrote in the "13B Versions?" thread:
So there you have the basic reason why Trailing will probably never be used on my 20B. Another reason for not running Trailing means I won't have to install a total of six coils and six ignitors in a cramped engine bay. So far, two coils fit very well. Adding a third is no problem. Adding a single ignitor on an aluminum plate and bolting it to the firewall is easy. Leaving the other two ignitors on the dizzy housing is also very easy. Then running two wires out of one of the vacuum dude's holes over to the ignitor is a piece of cake.
I can even keep my stock 4 cylinder tach with NO ADJUSTMENTS!! No trying to mod it for 6 cyl mode or needing to get an aftermarket one (although I may get one because they're more accurate).
I was suprised with DLIDFIS in that the parts have been around since '81 (well actually 80, or even '72 if you count the big Chrysler ignitors, and a points dizzy can trigger it, which could have worked on '71-'73 10As and 12As etc), and it took me till Xmas '00 to get it working while yacking on the phone with the white REPU guy. It took me another 6 or 7 months to finally get up the guts to hook it to my REPU after explaining it to the peeps over at Mazspeed and a couple of them actually became guinea pigs before me (I had SLIDFIS and MSD DFIS before DLDIFIS). Anyway, it took me another year to build my TLIDFIS 20B dizzy prototype. I centered the pickups as best as I could on my 13B (it was a bit involved, but I found out what I needed to know). The next step is to try it on a 20B.
Don't mean to ramble; I'm just waiting for the fireworks to start.
Here is something I wrote in the "13B Versions?" thread:
I doubt I'll even hook up Trailing, to tell you the truth. It just doesn't add enough power to the engine. The second Leading sparks sort of do the job anyway. My REPU's engine's idle and low to mid RPM was unchanged. Only high RPM under high load lost like 1HP with Trailing switched off. I'm guessing it was only 1HP because it was barely detectable by myself and a friend, and my electric fan was replaced by a clutch fan and it sucked a lot more power. A lot more! People say those clutch fans use like 5HP. If so, and I could feel it that much, it's probably going out, or my REPU's engine has a lot less than 100HP, or the engine's RPM is low enough to only be producing maybe 50RWHP where it feels sluggish with the fan. The lower the total engine HP, the more a loss of 5HP can be felt. Well, at low RPM, trailing did absolutely nothing for my engine. Pretty weird huh? I could put two of the three pickups back into a stripped dizzy I guess.
So there you have the basic reason why Trailing will probably never be used on my 20B. Another reason for not running Trailing means I won't have to install a total of six coils and six ignitors in a cramped engine bay. So far, two coils fit very well. Adding a third is no problem. Adding a single ignitor on an aluminum plate and bolting it to the firewall is easy. Leaving the other two ignitors on the dizzy housing is also very easy. Then running two wires out of one of the vacuum dude's holes over to the ignitor is a piece of cake.
I can even keep my stock 4 cylinder tach with NO ADJUSTMENTS!!
I was suprised with DLIDFIS in that the parts have been around since '81 (well actually 80, or even '72 if you count the big Chrysler ignitors, and a points dizzy can trigger it, which could have worked on '71-'73 10As and 12As etc), and it took me till Xmas '00 to get it working while yacking on the phone with the white REPU guy. It took me another 6 or 7 months to finally get up the guts to hook it to my REPU after explaining it to the peeps over at Mazspeed and a couple of them actually became guinea pigs before me (I had SLIDFIS and MSD DFIS before DLDIFIS). Anyway, it took me another year to build my TLIDFIS 20B dizzy prototype. I centered the pickups as best as I could on my 13B (it was a bit involved, but I found out what I needed to know). The next step is to try it on a 20B.
Don't mean to ramble; I'm just waiting for the fireworks to start.