20b In A Glc
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I pulled the 13B out of my REPU yesterday and got to try out the 2 1/8" impact socket. It works well but the impact wrench is a little slow. I need a larger inner diameter air hose (from 1/4 up to 3/8 should do it). The flywheel came off with lots of hammering.
The next step is to find that old counter weight. I looked for it a while yesterday and couldn't find it. This reminds me of when I misplaced my waterpump washers (I still haven't found them either). I also still need a flywheel and also need to swap trannies. I might just borrow the flywheel from the 20B, but I also would like to get it running before I do that.
Ok so I gotta undo the engine stand arms on the 20B before I fire it up, which will leave it free to attatch the 13B so I can swap oil pans so it will fit better in the MG. I guess this means I'll have a fair amount of time to locate the 13B counterweight while I'm preparing the 20B to run. At least I found the remote oil filter yesterday.
Things to do today:
Remove the old filter and see if my NAPA filter will fit. If not, I'll have to put the 20B's filter pedestal back on temporarily. Plus, I'd need a second 1/8" NPT plug for the RB oil blockoffs. I'm not going to plumb an oil pressure guage unless I've got one with a good length of nylon tubing in good condition around here.
Heh, I guess if I had an oil line long enough, I could do the no-oil-drip trick where you undo the rear oil line at the cooler and screw it on the front cover fitting when you're pulling a two rotor from say an RX-7 or whatever. I used a 23mm oil plug from a beehive engine on my 13B when I pulled it. I didn't spill a single drop.
Anyway, I'm not sure how long I could run the engine with no oil cooler. Or radiator for that matter. As long as it's a closed loop, it could probably run for a couple minutes with the liquids circulating untill they got hot.
I guess my main motivation was to hear it run with the stock twins on it acting as mufflers. The stock twins won't fit in the car.
The next step is to find that old counter weight. I looked for it a while yesterday and couldn't find it. This reminds me of when I misplaced my waterpump washers (I still haven't found them either). I also still need a flywheel and also need to swap trannies. I might just borrow the flywheel from the 20B, but I also would like to get it running before I do that.
Ok so I gotta undo the engine stand arms on the 20B before I fire it up, which will leave it free to attatch the 13B so I can swap oil pans so it will fit better in the MG. I guess this means I'll have a fair amount of time to locate the 13B counterweight while I'm preparing the 20B to run. At least I found the remote oil filter yesterday.
Things to do today:
Remove the old filter and see if my NAPA filter will fit. If not, I'll have to put the 20B's filter pedestal back on temporarily. Plus, I'd need a second 1/8" NPT plug for the RB oil blockoffs. I'm not going to plumb an oil pressure guage unless I've got one with a good length of nylon tubing in good condition around here.
Heh, I guess if I had an oil line long enough, I could do the no-oil-drip trick where you undo the rear oil line at the cooler and screw it on the front cover fitting when you're pulling a two rotor from say an RX-7 or whatever. I used a 23mm oil plug from a beehive engine on my 13B when I pulled it. I didn't spill a single drop.
Anyway, I'm not sure how long I could run the engine with no oil cooler. Or radiator for that matter. As long as it's a closed loop, it could probably run for a couple minutes with the liquids circulating untill they got hot.
I guess my main motivation was to hear it run with the stock twins on it acting as mufflers. The stock twins won't fit in the car.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Sep 16 2003, 10:55 AM
Heh, I guess if I had an oil line long enough, I could do the no-oil-drip trick where you undo the rear oil line at the cooler and screw it on the front cover fitting when you're pulling a two rotor from say an RX-7 or whatever. I used a 23mm oil plug from a beehive engine on my 13B when I pulled it. I didn't spill a single drop.
Anyway, I'm not sure how long I could run the engine with no oil cooler. Or radiator for that matter. As long as it's a closed loop, it could probably run for a couple minutes with the liquids circulating untill they got hot.
I guess my main motivation was to hear it run with the stock twins on it acting as mufflers. The stock twins won't fit in the car.
Anyway, I'm not sure how long I could run the engine with no oil cooler. Or radiator for that matter. As long as it's a closed loop, it could probably run for a couple minutes with the liquids circulating untill they got hot.
I guess my main motivation was to hear it run with the stock twins on it acting as mufflers. The stock twins won't fit in the car.
yah a couple minutes should be fine
mike
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Cool! I'll do that then. I've got to prepare to get that white REPU with an overheated engine today (gotta move a few things around again, as usual ). I'll spend the rest of my time working on the 20B.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
They are cool. Very easy to work on too. Screw new trucks!
You know what? While cutting some threads in my thermostat housing, I decided to use my 3/8" impact wrench to speed things along. It worked really well. The funny thing is the NPT tap is larger and probably a lot stronger than the 3/8" square drive of the wrench. I'm fairly certain it won't break going into aluminum.
You know what? While cutting some threads in my thermostat housing, I decided to use my 3/8" impact wrench to speed things along. It worked really well. The funny thing is the NPT tap is larger and probably a lot stronger than the 3/8" square drive of the wrench. I'm fairly certain it won't break going into aluminum.