Stock Josh

I use the RB flywheel stopper, then I grab my 2 foot breaker bar, and then I slip 3 feet of exhaust tubing over it and yank. Comes off rather easy that way actually. Same with the flywheel nut. I usually have to have someone else stand on the engine stand to prevent the stand from sliding around though. Good luck.

amp

scoffed at this post when i first read it years ago... kharma..

recently started to tear a motor i picked up for spare parts.. first one to ever give me trouble..

took several minutes of mapp torch and a four foot breaker to unbolt it... frigin loctite..

jwteknix

lol I had trouble removing mine too went thru 2 1/2" and 2 3/4" guns and no go...

got it free with a breaker bar w/ 5 ft pipe on it, a flywheel stopper and my 240lb brother to stop the engine stand from flipping lol

thatpoorguy

Lug nuts on dodge rams give us hell every once in awhile. Someone over torques them and Chrysler products have a bad habit of lug nuts corroding to the rims. I've snapped several lug nuts in half. The hex part breaks off leaving the threaded part still in there. You have to then drill out the stud and air hammer cuts into what's left of the lugnut to weaken it. Then sledge hammer the tire till it breaks off. Pain in my *** every time lol. We broke three sockets and five drill bits last time we had that issue

heretic

I found an excellent use for all of those 1st gen engine mount plates lying around after you get a bunch of core engines.



They are almost a perfect fit to bolt onto the flywheel so you can have something to hold the engine while you wrestly the flywheel nut and front bolt off.



Order is loosen flywheel nut, then loosen front bolt, then snug the front bolt on and smack the flywheel off with a soft faced sledge. The act of loosening the front bolt while the flywheel nut is loose seems to make the flywheel come off easier. Last engine I pulled apart came apart with two hits on a 2 by 4 with a 16oz framing hammer, and it had been torqued with the 150ft-lb plus 60 degrees method.

Barry Bordes

I think some people use the front bolt as the back-up to tighten the rear nut.

200 ft.lbs. vs 300 ft. lbs. causing the over-tightened front bolt.

We should use a torque reactor. I use an old pressure plate frame.

Barry

heretic

That looks way nicer than the angle iron method. Angle iron bends easily.



No matter what, the device to hold the flywheel needs to be LONG. I like having eight feet minimum of extension.

fe135

I don't remember but if the engine turns the same direction as a Chevy small block then this trick will work. I have been doing it this way for years. Use a breaker bar with the correct socket and lean the bar on the cars frame. Hit the starter. Done.