Do 13brew Have Issues With Oil Being Delivered?
#31
Originally Posted by rotarypower101' date='Oct 2 2003, 05:07 PM
im sure that you are familiar with the 13b dragon, if I had a pic of a front plate I would show it better, but this will work.
It is under the accessories plate right around the area of that big red dot.
I believe they bore out a channel that is covered by a aluminum hydraulically placed small round plate in that area.
To get the oil there they take a piece of .75 aluminum plate and stack it inbetween the oil filter and block with a extra port in it for the AN line to the newly bored front port.
It is under the accessories plate right around the area of that big red dot.
I believe they bore out a channel that is covered by a aluminum hydraulically placed small round plate in that area.
To get the oil there they take a piece of .75 aluminum plate and stack it inbetween the oil filter and block with a extra port in it for the AN line to the newly bored front port.
This is a subject that I've been diving into heavily lately. One idea I've got is to bypass the upper tubular dowel pin(s) oil galley all together, fill in the rear iron housing at the bottom depth of the back dowel pin, use no dowel pin o-rings, and run two lines from the oil filter pedestal around the block to both the turbocharger and the front gear bearing. From what I understand, the oil in that upper dowel pin oil galley gets VERY hot, heat soaks the dowel pins, the rotor housings, the coolant jackets in the immediate vicinity, and the intake charge at about ~40BTDC during compression. In theory, by bypassing it all together, you're helping to reduce oil temperatures, coolant temperatures, as well as charge temperatures. It will also theoretically lubricate the front gear bearing more adequately and evenly with respect to its rear gear bearing counterpart (where the oil temperatures are theoretically the same instead of the front bearing being a measured degrees hotter). It's worth a try definitely. I'll be doing this on mine when I tear into it.
B
#32
While looking for another thread this one came up so I thought I would get a update from anybody that has done this, and see how its working for you.
You are right in all your assumptions BDC. Have you been working on any other oil mods than the ones that have been discussed?
You are right in all your assumptions BDC. Have you been working on any other oil mods than the ones that have been discussed?
#33
Originally Posted by rotarypower101' date='Apr 12 2004, 09:00 PM
While looking for another thread this one came up so I thought I would get a update from anybody that has done this, and see how its working for you.
You are right in all your assumptions BDC. Have you been working on any other oil mods than the ones that have been discussed?
You are right in all your assumptions BDC. Have you been working on any other oil mods than the ones that have been discussed?
I'm going to try and put this together within the next few days. Hopefully, my camera will magically start working again or I can use another one to take some pictures of how it's done.
B
#35
Originally Posted by rotarypower101' date='Apr 14 2004, 02:23 PM
pineapple uses a 1/4 to -6 for the loop line fitting on the block.
B
#36
I purchased the necessary hardware today to make this loop line modification:
- 1/4" NPT to -6AN adaptor for the front iron housing
- 3/8" NPT to -6AN adaptor for my Racing Beat oil pressure/oil temperature block
(running a 3/8" 3-way block tee from the RB block for the oil temperature sending unit and the adaptor for the loop line)
- 3 feet of -6AN line
All I need to do now is drill out the plug and tap the front iron housing's oil gallery for 1/4" NPT thread and get the proper length hose constructed. I'll post pictures once I'm done.
B
- 1/4" NPT to -6AN adaptor for the front iron housing
- 3/8" NPT to -6AN adaptor for my Racing Beat oil pressure/oil temperature block
(running a 3/8" 3-way block tee from the RB block for the oil temperature sending unit and the adaptor for the loop line)
- 3 feet of -6AN line
All I need to do now is drill out the plug and tap the front iron housing's oil gallery for 1/4" NPT thread and get the proper length hose constructed. I'll post pictures once I'm done.
B
#40
And just as a side note, this mod creates a conflict with the accessory plate for the PS and AC. It can be overcome by cutting a slot for a 90deg fitting into the plate. It should fit properly with no washers under the compressor or maybe 1 or 2 if not tapped all the way in on the block. And don’t start with that throw out the AC ****! I live in Oregon its usually cold and wet here 346 days of the year and I still want my AC on those rare warm days.
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adamlewis
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12-21-2003 02:29 AM
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