Do the 13brew have any issues with oil delivered being insufficient in any way?



Like the front bearing and associated parts, has there ever been an issue with this surface wearing because of lack of oil or premature wear because of insufficient oil flow?



Would the oil mods that an engine builder does on a 13brew be good mainly for cooling purposes, and not solely for bringing the engines oil needs up to par?



I have never heard of any problems with the stock oiling system being able to supply oil even under very modified loads and higher than stock stresses.



I am wondering if the oil mods preformed on these engines are really necessary or are just a good precautionary measure to do because of better lubrication under higher loading?



thanks

the oiling system kicks ass, but a lot of the engine cooling is also done threw the oil. Ie. the Rotors are exclusivly cooled by the oil. For this reason it's a good idea to upgrade oil coolers and put the 200cc carb jets in the two e-shaft oil squirters used to spray oil on the rotors. Most people pay a lot of $ to try and get the stock oil pressure that a FD has. FC's run a little lower oil pressure, so it's a good idea to upgrade to the FD oil prssure regulator on the bottom of the rear plate as well..

when you upgrade a FC Oil pressure regulator to an FD one do you have to shim the oil pressure control valve on the front cover? and if so how is that done? thanks

Not sure if you have to, since I don't mess with FC's much, but you can shim it with washers from a 10mm bolt by inserting them between the spring and the cap you remove..

Does anyone know what the front oil pressure relief velve is set to on either a FC or a FD?

This oil cooling issues is a good topic



you can shime up the oil regulators with a washer ot two to increase oil pressure. But for daily drive NA 2nd gen it can lead to higher oil consumption and a smokery cars once and a while.



the great think about the rotary is direct race technology.

thats right DRY SUMP SYSTEM

go to Mazdaspeed website hunt around for it . It think its about $3000 for the system and you can pretty much leave you worries about the lubrication behind you. Talk to Tim about it but unless you plan on spending big money racing like $2500 to 10,000 a weekend racing it might not be worth it.



oh yea go to Mazdatrix take a look at thier different gear bearing types to fit you application.

AS far as you Pressure regulator question goes

i can not pull the num,ber from the top of my head so just go to

iluvmy7.com and pull the numbers for the factory manual. I do know that the front plunger is lower then the rear.

I think you have that backwards, the front is higher than the rear. I'm wondering what the front is set to?

So is it a consensus that the real reason that the oil passageways are carved out and enlarged, is simply for better cooling by means of more flow through the system?



I have a engine up at pineapple right now and am wondering whether or not I should go with the full oil upgrades with loop line, or just with the standard upgrades?



Some of the things they offer seem exclusively for better surface oiling and not so much for cooling purposes i.e. Extra teardrop oiling passageways in the Eshaft.



Any opinions on any upgraded oiling mods would be great!

Which ones do you guys feel are necessary or very beneficial, and which things are not so important or could be omitted because of unimportance?



http://www.pineappleracing.com/PricelistSvcs.html



Thanks!

What is the "Loop Line" option that is mentioned on the Pineapple Racing website? I have never seen that before.