Well I was talking to Joel up at pineapple, and he seemed to think that the bearing surfaces could use more than the standard oiling.



He said there are a lot of engines that come in with bad bearings and that there oiling mods cure those problems.



Do you guys feel that the bearings in the REWs could use more oil flow in this area, or are they OK from what you guys have seen?



Any personal experiences with this kind of wear?



Thanks

I'd like to know what their oiling mods are.



This is a subject that I've just recently been paying alot more attention to. On the last engine I built (3 days ago; S5 13BT 4-port), I modified four places on the front cover's machined oil galleys, I replaced the rotor and gear bearings with new ones, I changed the oil pressure regulator to an 80/85psi unit, and I also use Weber 2mm air corrector jets in-place of the ball 'n spring units in the eccentric shaft. Only time will tell if it all works but I suspect it'll work alright. Idle oil pressure is about 25 to 30psi and 2500rpm+ oil pressure is around 75 to 80psi. Not too bad.



Anybody else have any info on the 105/110psi factory race oil pressure regulator that's on the Mazdatrix website? I'd like to build an engine that can rev past factory redline and still sustain oil pressure and good bearing lubrication.



B

I think you have that backwards, the front is higher than the rear. I'm wondering what the front is set to? [/quote]

Yeh I believe the front is set to around 150 to 170psi.

The factory manual got that info though.

I think you have that backwards, the front is higher than the rear. I'm wondering what the front is set to? [/quote]

Yeh I believe the front is set to around 150 to 170psi.

The factory manual got that info though. [/quote]

Whoa! Crispeed has crossed over from the dark side.. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif welcome

Thanks for the answer.



This isn't the dark side, this is the good side. Less BS over here.

Ie. Crossed over FROM the dark side..



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

What I'd like to know is how many washers to add. I'd guess three or four M5 flat washers off the top of my head.



B

Normaly you would add between 1/16th to 3/16th of an inch total in shims.

Most of the times each 1/16th is good for an additional 5psi over operational pressures. The real trick is to shim the rear regulator so that the valve is position at midway in the oil return/release passage/hole when it's fully depressed in it's opened position.

Personaly I would run the 105/115psi regulator with the multi window REW type gears and bearings.

Most bearing related failure if everything else checks out ok is due to wrong tolerances during assembly.

Believe it or not but I've been on here for a very long time but I forgot my password and everytime I tried to recover it would never work as though some evil power from the dark side was stopping it from working.!https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Normaly you would add between 1/16th to 3/16th of an inch total in shims.

Most of the times each 1/16th is good for an additional 5psi over operational pressures. The real trick is to shim the rear regulator so that the valve is position at midway in the oil return/release passage/hole when it's fully depressed in it's opened position.

Personaly I would run the 105/115psi regulator with the multi window REW type gears and bearings.

Most bearing related failure if everything else checks out ok is due to wrong tolerances during assembly. [/quote]

I didn't think the FD gears fit or were useful. After looking at the oil galleys on them, unless I'm mistaken, they don't match up to the galleys on the FC front and rear irons. Am I off on this?



B