Can I check end play with a feeler guage?
#1
I have a feeler guage with .002, .003 and up. Can I use it to check end play? How tight should the .002 be when I slide it between the bearing and thrust plate? I'm aiming for Judge Ito's recommended .002 to .0025.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3
No access to one. I think my friend has one though.
I'm doing a run of engines and upon tearing down my REPU's engine, the thrust assembly was horribly pitted. Having a couple extra thrust assemblies laying around, I started testing different sets of parts with the feeler guage. Mind you, the engines are dissassembled, so the best I can do right now is to place a flywheel on the floor, clutch side down, set a shaft in it, install all the thrust parts, then the rest of the stack and torque it down. It's surprisingly accurate, though I wouldn't recommend this for anything other than educational purposes.
So I compared the thrust assemblies of like five engines this way, and two were between .002 and .003 where .003 would tend to get stuck, but .002 could slide in and out with little resistance. One was over .004 with a couple small dents in the thin thrust washer, another was closer to .0035 to .004 with a few dents as well, and the last was my bad REPU assembly with a varying amount of end play due to the pitting and wear.
The engines with the dented washers have both spent an unknown amount of time in storage. I assume the dents were caused by the excessive end play and when the mechanics bumped them around during removal. They also both have dented oil pans so anything is possible.
I'm doing a run of engines and upon tearing down my REPU's engine, the thrust assembly was horribly pitted. Having a couple extra thrust assemblies laying around, I started testing different sets of parts with the feeler guage. Mind you, the engines are dissassembled, so the best I can do right now is to place a flywheel on the floor, clutch side down, set a shaft in it, install all the thrust parts, then the rest of the stack and torque it down. It's surprisingly accurate, though I wouldn't recommend this for anything other than educational purposes.
So I compared the thrust assemblies of like five engines this way, and two were between .002 and .003 where .003 would tend to get stuck, but .002 could slide in and out with little resistance. One was over .004 with a couple small dents in the thin thrust washer, another was closer to .0035 to .004 with a few dents as well, and the last was my bad REPU assembly with a varying amount of end play due to the pitting and wear.
The engines with the dented washers have both spent an unknown amount of time in storage. I assume the dents were caused by the excessive end play and when the mechanics bumped them around during removal. They also both have dented oil pans so anything is possible.
#4
I have used the same method as Jeff20B in the past.
Another method I tried was in the Hayes manual.
Take one of the lifting ears and bolt it to the back of the motorbetween the endplate and the flywheel. Measure the gap with the flywheel pushed forward and then again with it pushed back. Subtract the two and the remainder is your endplay.
Another method I tried was in the Hayes manual.
Take one of the lifting ears and bolt it to the back of the motorbetween the endplate and the flywheel. Measure the gap with the flywheel pushed forward and then again with it pushed back. Subtract the two and the remainder is your endplay.
#7
Originally Posted by sureshot' post='806130' date='Mar 6 2006, 08:54 PM
That must have been a really nice digital caliper!
Mine is only good to =- .0005
Go Go metric supremacy
I just converted my numbers into inches
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mr. gadget
Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps
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12-02-2003 07:57 PM
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