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Aux Port Sleeves For Turbo 6-port

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Old 01-09-2005, 09:20 PM
  #11  
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Thanks for the input guys. The engine is running in n/a form now, so I can't just start shoving devcon in there and porting. If I was in the build process, that'd be another matter. The nylon insert idea is interesting, but I think at this point I'm going to run with them removed.



Roger.
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Old 01-10-2005, 08:56 AM
  #12  
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Roger, looks very good!



What are you doing about port matching the TII LIM to the 6 port adapter/block? There is those dips in the casting that you'll need to fill (I did this with mine).



I epoxy filled the holes and then port matched.



I believe you never saw the surface when it was done, you only saw my UIM setup.



When you are porting that section of the manifold, be sure to balance the volume of air running through that newly ported section. The rear rotor you can cut pretty deep into the casting without actually removing alot of material, and you will end up with a thin casting wall and alot of air flow as opposed to the porting opportunity on the opposite runner. I ended up leaving a small "hill" on the top of the rear rotor secondary runner so that it was closer balanced to the front secondary runner.



But anyways I wanted to make sure you handled those because once you start porting you'll dig into those dips in the casting, and it could be a big mess. Easiest way is to fill the casting, smooth it out level, then port match (which will be partially into the epoxy on both sides).
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Old 01-10-2005, 08:58 AM
  #13  
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I can't tell in your pictures if you already ported the LIM to match, or filled those sections, it's a bit dark for me to be able to tell.



BTW about the sleeves, I would leave them out myself until you are ready for a teardown to smooth the port, but I am running no sleeves. Pineapple has those nice sleeves, but I've read about more than one situation where using those sleeves costed someone a motor due to the sleeve coming apart. It was quite some time ago though I'm not sure if they have improved their design.



Myself, for what you are going for with your setup, I would leave sleeves out and call it a day.
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Old 01-10-2005, 04:09 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ColinRX7' date='Jan 10 2005, 06:56 AM
Roger, looks very good!



What are you doing about port matching the TII LIM to the 6 port adapter/block? There is those dips in the casting that you'll need to fill (I did this with mine).



I epoxy filled the holes and then port matched.


Already done. I used metal-filled epoxy to fill the dips, marked out the 6-port gasket on the face of the 4-port manifold, and ported it to match. I then mounted the 6-port adapter plate, and port-matched it to the newly modified manifold. Then the adapter plate was removed, mounted to that old 6-port block sitting in on the bench, and matched ports in the irons. Two machine screws mount the plate to the LIM, so it will stay semi-permanently mounted to the LIM, as well as ensure proper alignment.



I'm not clear as to the port area issue you are referring to. I don't recall an issue in that regard, but it's been a couple weeks since I did the work.



Did you get your tuning issues sorted out? I sent you an email a while back, and heard nada.



Roger.
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Old 01-10-2005, 05:05 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by BLUE TII' date='Jan 9 2005, 10:56 PM
You could press in a pliable high temp plastic (nylon, teflon etc) "bowl" in the Aux port so you will be sure it won't crack and get sucked in. Press it in and port it to perfection.



I remember someone here has done this and it worked.





I have used nylon in the past, but its imperative that you anchor it mechanically. Not epoxy or lock tite. I used nylon inserts in my SP engine, and epoxied them in place. They were larger than the ports, so there wasnt an issue with them falling into the chamber, but over the course of 12k miles, they came loose, and one of them backed up the runner some, blocking flow to that port. Thats why I started doing the set screw, and thats worked perfectly. With the nylon inserts, I pressed them in, and the drilled through the back of the runner, and tapped it, put in a set screw with locktite, and called it done.
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