Cheers!

what is the material the OEM eshaft is made from?

frode

Thanks Brian!

silverrotor

Oops. I replied to a thread simular to this. I meant to post here Instead.



Coincidently, this Is what I am going through right now. With a recently purchased RB Street Pressure Regulator, I called RB to ask bout the shimming of the Front Control Pressure Regulator just 2hrs ago. They said, with the addition of the RB Pressure Regulator, their Is no need to shim the front one. Good enough for me. This Is for a s5 TII.

BDC

Hey guys, I did some testing on my engine that I rebuilt several days ago. I used the 220's on the e-shaft but I also did alot of modification to the front oil galleys, specifically chamfering and sanding down the oil pickup and oil dump where the oil pump rests as well as the transition from the vertical galley to the front cover o-ring/lateral galley. I slightly enlarged and super-fine-sanded the oil pickup that's machined in the front iron housing to 400grit then used a finishing scuff abrasive. It's smooth to the touch like glass.



I tested yesterday after solving some oil-based problems I had with the loop line construction and Racing Beat oil pressure/temperature adaptor block I nearly destroyed modifying. At 800rpm idle, with oil temps at 180 degrees, my oil pressures are still in the mid 20psi! This is also using the Racing Beat 80/85psi regulator for the FC motors. This is some good news as this was one of the few drawbacks I had about doing this mod. It looks like the flow modifications done to the front iron oil galleys can help alleviate this.



B

Lynn E. Hanover

The stock jet hole is in excess of .100" the 200 weber jet is smaller than that. So the recomendation in the Racing Beat book is suggesting that you reduce oil flow to the rotors for high power applications. It is not well explained in the Racing Beat book.



However,



This is a racing only change that will get you poor oil pressure at idle and just off idle. The object is to control the amount of oil going to the rotors at high speed.

If you add the 115 pound pressure relief valve for racing, once the oil is hot, you will be adding oil to the rotors in buckets per second quantities, with the stock setup. For turbo cars, rotor temperature is a bigger problem, but even then if you are not running flat out across Nevada at night with all of your ECM gear running, then what is your problem?



The added amounts of oil is of no value at all to the rotors, and you want a bunch more of that oil to be going to the bearings to move out superheated oil lest the bearings start to loose overlay. Rotor cooling in turbos is to prevent detonation.

Not a problem in NA engines (OK if you climb Pikes Peak in 5th gear it's a problem)

but for the most part not a problem.



So why do that?



If you have the good pump, and shim the front relief so it cannot open, and add the 115 pound rear relief then your full throttle oil pressure will be 115 pounds hot. You could squirt hot oil through the stock jet (over .100") over your house. And there are two of those holes in your oil system. The weber jets cut down these two (leaks) to something reasonable, like enough to cool 4 rotors. But it ain't for the street. At 60 to 80 pounds of oil pressure the flow through the stock jet (the hole in the screw) is much reduced. And therefore ideal for street use.



The oil hole in the rotor bearing throw has a slight centrifugal force advantage over the oil jet, so in theory, the pressure at the rotor bearing is higher even though the is no restriction at all in front of the cooling jet hole.



At any rate (pun) the ball and spring offer no restriction to oil flow, because the oil goes through the square opening behind the spring.



If you want to do this anyway, you can braze the stock jet shut and redrill it to match a .200 Weber jet.



So there you have it. The jets restrict oil flow to the rotors when high oil pressure is used. Weber main jets fit the taper at the bottom of the jet well better than the Weber air correctors, but it matters not what you use. If you do this you need more than stock oil pressure. There is no need to glue the jet into the holder. It cannot go anywhere, and if the jet screw comes out, the jet will definitely not be your problem. They used to take a three corner punch, and stake a bit of crank material into the screw driver slot in addition to the Locktite or simular on the threads.



If you have done this and have not added the high pressure relief valve, there is no shame in that. There is also not much oil pressure at idle. If you don't run it real hard, it won't matter, and the oil pressure comes up with RPM, so it won't hurt you there. But don't add the high pressure relief valve thinking that it will cure the low idle oil pressure. It will not. Those oil holes are now open all of the time, and at idle there is just not much oil flow, thus no oil pressure.



On the other hand, the bearings are huge and just need a few drops of oil at idle to survive. So tape over the bottom of the range on the gage and forget about it.



Lynn E. Hanover

silverrotor

My last post came out all wrong...I meant that the Shims are provided In the Kit - no need to source them out.



Anyway, the Instructions to the Racing Beat Rear Pressure Regulator Is as follows:



When Installing either the Street or Race Pressure Regulator, It Is necessary to shim the Front Cover Pressure Regulator with the 2 washers supplied to balance the Increased pressure of the Street ot Race Rear Pressure Regulator.



The Front Cover Pressure Regulator Is accessed by removing the Oil Pan. Remove the threaded Cap on the Front Pressure Regulator, Install the Washers between the cap and spring and re-install the cap. Fini.

BDC

Not sure if this one got wiped out during the server hack several months back, but here goes...



http://bdc.cyberosity.com/v/Technical/E-Shaft-Oil-Jets/



B

diabolical1

i have 2 questions ...



would you happen to remember how much larger you made the stock opening on the stock jets?