Transport trucks have dogged 10 speed (or more) transmissions.



You still have a clutch, nothing out of the ordinary there, it's just you don't need it to shift if you can rev match good. Diesel trucks (the ones mated to a dogged tranny) have a shifting band of 1 - 1.5 k rpm, it's easy to shift.



Now on a rotary, with shifting anywhere from 3k - 9k, it's a little different.. Isn't it?



And yes the whine. Oh I love that whine.

 

500 RWHP is a lot to handle. My car is in the 375RWHP range right now after finally getting a boost controler on it. I have noticed its almost too much for the street. It will loose traction and turn sideways while going straight in second gear if I floor it. In third it looses traction but stays straight. I was just talking to Phins about this. I had planned on putting Vosko's T-78 on and shooting for 450 RWHP. I am now having second thoughts because I think its gonna make the car undriveable.



@ 375 RWHP on the street my car scares the crap out of me.



If I were you Exyom I would shoot for a little less HP and spend the money on suspension. Maybe a stand alone and other things. Just my opinion.

 

good points jim, whats the use of power if you cant drive it



maybe if your into bragging rights, but in the real world you

want a car you can drive

 

Good point Jims. I get scared shitless riding with FD3Boost in his 3rd gen. He is pushing about the same power as you Jims. Maybe more, or less. Don't know. But he scares me sometimes.



But a 20b even N/A power would be practically unstoppable on the streets, and even on the track. I don't know the costs of them, and pondering if I should go for it in my FC once I gain more experience.



But, whatever you go with, I am sure it will kick some SERIOUS ***.

 

Is a dogbox tranny lighter or heavier than a normal tranny? Or is the difference nominal?

 

Well, it would make sense for it to be lighter, but then again, the teeth I think are a lot bigger which could account for the weight lost from the synchros. I have no idea.

 

Yea I still have to consider everything.



If I do upgrade the 13B, I'll no doubt have a nice boost/fuel controller like the E-01 to switch back and forth. If I do shoot for the 450-500 whp range for racing, I'll have a low boost/fuel setting at around 300-350whp for street use. I just wanted some impressive #'s without all the hassle of constant rebuilds like I figured I would have on the 13B.



The 20B honestly frightens me a bit. If I do end up doing the 20B, I think I'm going to turn the FD into a project weekend car and buying a cheap little beater to drive around during the week. A positive and a negative of the 20B is it's minimum horsepower is still monstrous. Thus, it would be good as a weekend and project car to show off, but driving it everyday to work and in traffic all the time would get to be very tidious.



I still have a lot to think on. I think I'll call Cameron at Pettit and see what he has to say about it. I need to drive down there and have him take a peek at my motor anyways so he can figure out what's up with the water and power steering pump.

 

 

Our 20B NA FC project is up to $6k right now - not too bad.

I think we finally got the kinks out, and I think it's easily surpassing 200hp to the wheels with all stock internals.

Dyno is scheduled tomorrow, so this should be interesting.





-Ted

 

Let us know the results Ted.



I've always been curious of a well put together N/A 20B dyno. You have the reputation as a competent builder.