Poped My 1/4 Mile Cherry
#31
And I'm not sure I agree about ET Street stability even in a straight line. With low inflation needed for good launches, you will get a touch of swaying down the track at higher speeds- so work up to it. They do reduce wheel hop, hook well, & permit higher RPM launches. They wear OK too. Do not drive them on wet roads or take corners at your usual speeds.
Make sure your clutch is up to snuff because "great hook-up" means serious stress on the clutch & it's a good idea to buy a quality tire gauge like the Moroso. With about 330 RWH my Centerforce has held up well.
If you decide to go with drag radials instead, and a lot of folks prefer them, I think you want some wheel spin and a lower launch RPM. I did best with 3,500 RMP launch but you have to try it and see what works. The sidewalls are hard, they don't wrinkle so either your wheels spin or your rear end gets lots of stress. A lot of folks at the strips run 20 lbs to make sure they get some spin to protect the rear.
The MT folks say you want to heat em up to within 20 degrees of the track temp and not to do overly ambitious burn-outs. I think drag radials need a more serious burn-out.
Make sure your clutch is up to snuff because "great hook-up" means serious stress on the clutch & it's a good idea to buy a quality tire gauge like the Moroso. With about 330 RWH my Centerforce has held up well.
If you decide to go with drag radials instead, and a lot of folks prefer them, I think you want some wheel spin and a lower launch RPM. I did best with 3,500 RMP launch but you have to try it and see what works. The sidewalls are hard, they don't wrinkle so either your wheels spin or your rear end gets lots of stress. A lot of folks at the strips run 20 lbs to make sure they get some spin to protect the rear.
The MT folks say you want to heat em up to within 20 degrees of the track temp and not to do overly ambitious burn-outs. I think drag radials need a more serious burn-out.
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J-cee
Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps
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09-20-2006 11:27 AM
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