Silicone Hose Job
#22
I know I'm a little late on the thread, but for info if you're ever trying to get those hoses off again and don't want to break the solenoids, heat the hose a little bit with a heat gun. Mine were absolutlely solid- I think the rubber had converted to bakelite over time and a knife blade wouldn't even touch them!
I also broke two of the bastards but luckily had a couple spare from my S5 (of the right ones too!)
I also broke two of the bastards but luckily had a couple spare from my S5 (of the right ones too!)
#23
Mazda wanted like $110 apeice for the solenoids - I broke one when I did my hose job, but luckily found someone on the forums to sell me one of his for $25.
And why on earth are you trying to do the hose job without removing the rats nest? How are you going to replace the fuel lines and FPD, get the injectors cleaned, etc etc..
And why on earth are you trying to do the hose job without removing the rats nest? How are you going to replace the fuel lines and FPD, get the injectors cleaned, etc etc..
#24
i am in the middle of doing the same project.. i also broke offa nipple! call david @ 615-893-4469 i got one from him for $10 plus shipping.. also, take the rack off, its much easier. i went to kinkos and printed out that color diagram above on 11X17 inch paper... without that i would have been screwed..
#25
Originally Posted by joshuaRX707' date='Oct 10 2003, 08:39 PM
i am in the middle of doing the same project.. i also broke offa nipple! call david @ 615-893-4469 i got one from him for $10 plus shipping.. also, take the rack off, its much easier. i went to kinkos and printed out that color diagram above on 11X17 inch paper... without that i would have been screwed..
damn guys thanks but too late. i broke three of them and already ordered from mazda... $65 a peice. i've replaced everything already just waiting on thoose to come in and i'll finish up. i'll post some pics very soon. also just to let everyone know that is in the process of doing this when replacing the line from the pre-control actuator to the wastegate acuator remember to cut the pill out and move it to the silicon replacement...i almost forgot.
#26
also just to let everyone know that is in the process of doing this when replacing the line from the pre-control actuator to the wastegate acuator remember to cut the pill out and move it to the silicon replacement...i almost forgot.
And if you forget and throw out the pill just use a needle valve, worked great for me
#27
another note, you might want to zip tie the pills in place in those lines...
oil blow by + silicon + pill + boost = that line is going to be slick on the inside, and that pill could VERY easily get blown all the way to the nipple (*edit* on the actuator) and not function correctly. In turn your prespool time will get thrown and the wastegate will vent too much boost.
Just a shared experience...
oil blow by + silicon + pill + boost = that line is going to be slick on the inside, and that pill could VERY easily get blown all the way to the nipple (*edit* on the actuator) and not function correctly. In turn your prespool time will get thrown and the wastegate will vent too much boost.
Just a shared experience...
#28
Originally Posted by DUB' date='Oct 13 2003, 05:28 AM
another note, you might want to zip tie the pills in place in those lines...
oil blow by + silicon + pill + boost = that line is going to be slick on the inside, and that pill could VERY easily get blown all the way to the nipple (*edit* on the actuator) and not function correctly. In turn your prespool time will get thrown and the wastegate will vent too much boost.
Just a shared experience...
oil blow by + silicon + pill + boost = that line is going to be slick on the inside, and that pill could VERY easily get blown all the way to the nipple (*edit* on the actuator) and not function correctly. In turn your prespool time will get thrown and the wastegate will vent too much boost.
Just a shared experience...