Silicone Hose Job
10-09-2003, 01:21 AM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Iowa Baby....Oh-Yea
Posts: 212
Most, if not all of the selonoids are the same, and removing the airpump / Vac simplification would free up a lot of ****. I have been in on two simplification / silicone jobs and we had the same problem 
only we had spare selonoids
super glue will work untill you try to put a hose back on it ...I've tried. If you give me till tomorra I will check to see if I have any spares...just PM me to remind me
super glue will work untill you try to put a hose back on it ...I've tried. If you give me till tomorra I will check to see if I have any spares...just PM me to remind me
10-09-2003, 06:25 AM
#18
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 30
At the risk of sounding cynical, but isn't this like popping your cherry on the FD? I made it through the vac hose job until I killed the the two solenoids under the UIM. If it's not this it'll be something else... an expensive part broken while working on your car.
All I can say is try to befriending your Mazda dealership parts guy... I ended up gettting parts at the employee discount(without asking). Maybe it was because I was there every other week for the longest time.. or because I was the only polite customer there...
All I can say is try to befriending your Mazda dealership parts guy... I ended up gettting parts at the employee discount(without asking). Maybe it was because I was there every other week for the longest time.. or because I was the only polite customer there...
10-09-2003, 06:25 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 568
The good news is you broke the fuel pressure regulator solenoid valve and the double throttle control solenoid valve...and you don't need either of them.
In the dia, the red arrows shows which lines to remove (expect the arrow by, the FPR, that arrow points to the nipple on the LIM where you can run the line straight from the FPR)
The DT remove the actuator (circled) and butterflies in the UIM and block it off.
you'll need to put 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in the connectors so the ECU doesn't trip out.
In the dia, the red arrows shows which lines to remove (expect the arrow by, the FPR, that arrow points to the nipple on the LIM where you can run the line straight from the FPR)
The DT remove the actuator (circled) and butterflies in the UIM and block it off.
you'll need to put 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in the connectors so the ECU doesn't trip out.
10-09-2003, 01:34 PM
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: DE
Posts: 401
Originally Posted by DUB' date='Oct 9 2003, 03:25 AM
you'll need to put 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in the connectors so the ECU doesn't trip out.