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Can't Find Diagram

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Old 09-14-2005, 02:51 PM
  #21  
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slow but good so far (crosses fingers) it is taking a long time because we had to drill out the turbo manifold stud holes retap them and put in helicoils. Then we realized that we took off the wastegate and not the pre-control so we had to put that back on. Then since the holes were not drilled perfectally straight the downpipe would not fit correctly so we had to drill out the holes on it. I had to dremel some of the gasket holes because of this same problem. And now one of the nuts wont go on so my brother bought some bolts hopefully those will work. Plus my brother is installing an AVC-R and rewiring my turbo timer (wasn't wired right to automatically count down). Then i dremeled my radio din out so i could fit the AVC-R in it. And i am making a Power FC mount. So hopefully this weekend it will be done. I will post pics and stuff when it is done since i dont think i every posted pics of my car.





I have another question, to wire the pre-control door open is the arm pushed twords the front of the car or the rear?
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:26 AM
  #22  
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[quote name='rx7girltk' date='Sep 14 2005, 03:51 PM']I have another question, to wire the pre-control door open is the arm pushed twords the front of the car or the rear?

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I had mine welded shut. the arm of the actuator would move towards the rear of the car to open the precontrol door.
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Old 09-17-2005, 04:01 PM
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I have another question.



1.What do i block off if i im keeping the air pump?

2.Where is the double throttle?

3.What is the AWS pipe and solenoid? and where are they?

4.What is the ISC/BAC Solenoid? and where is it?



sorry for all the questions just want this to be right the first time.
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Old 09-18-2005, 09:54 PM
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ok nevermind question #2 and do i remove #3 and 4 if i keep the air pump and have a power fc? I heard that th epower fc does not read the aws so it is ok to remove it but i want to make sure.
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Old 09-19-2005, 09:20 AM
  #25  
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AWS is cruel and unusual punishment, remove.

I have haltech, rev my engine to 1500rpms when cold and drop to 1300 after ~20s, and drop to 900 once warm. 3K until warm is freakin' nuts if you ask me. You'll need two block off plates.



ISC is on the back side of the UIM, near the TPS...it allows air to bypass the throttle plates when load is increased on the engine, AC, lights, etc...don't remove.



You don't really need to block anything else off, if you are keeping the air-pump.



EGR, AWS and DT can go.
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