Blowing motors like nobodys business,
12-01-2005, 08:33 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Originally Posted by nopistons94' post='782990' date='Dec 1 2005, 06:30 PM
car sounds different and drives differently not under boost, also the vac and idle randomly drops to being really low, like 12 g vacc and 700 idle, then goes back to normal 1000 idle and 18 gram vac. any electrical load makes the engine bog like crazy
The car will still idle? If the engine was broke it should not be able to idle.
12-01-2005, 08:37 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,850
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' post='782993' date='Dec 1 2005, 09:33 PM
The car will still idle? If the engine was broke it should not be able to idle.
car holds its own idle fine and drives *almost* the same under boost, feels a little slower on the butt dyno but that could be me?
12-01-2005, 08:41 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
Originally Posted by nopistons94' post='782994' date='Dec 1 2005, 06:37 PM
car holds its own idle fine and drives *almost* the same under boost, feels a little slower on the butt dyno but that could be me?
Not to disregard your compression test but it doesn't sound broke to me. I have heard my share of engines actually break and when one does it's hard to mistake it. You mention that you had a lot of carbon build up on the front rotor. Have you looked into the ingition coils, coil harness and plug wires,? It is possible that your not getting spark on the front rotor. Swap in some new plugs too.
12-01-2005, 09:15 PM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,850
plug wires are new 8mm wires, plugs are FUGGIN fouled on the front rotor and only have about 2k miles on them if that. I dunno how they are fouling so fast and the rear isn't 
also theres a blue wire with orange dots on it that is snipped. im not sure what connector this wire goes to yet, but its on the drivers side near the plugs, must have torn it off taking out the plugs any idea?
also theres a blue wire with orange dots on it that is snipped. im not sure what connector this wire goes to yet, but its on the drivers side near the plugs, must have torn it off taking out the plugs any idea?
12-01-2005, 10:25 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: union, new jersey
Posts: 8,079
your front plugs are caked with carbon because of the fact that you dont have compression.
compression loss creates very rich conditions.
you might have a fuel problem, you described your rear plugs to be light, which indicates lean conditions (too lean for rotaries). your front rotor could have been running more lean that the rear before it popped, and now its rich and caked up because of the lack of compression.
is 30psi the highest reading out of the 3 faces in the front rotor? what were the 3 readings for the rotor?
compression loss creates very rich conditions.
you might have a fuel problem, you described your rear plugs to be light, which indicates lean conditions (too lean for rotaries). your front rotor could have been running more lean that the rear before it popped, and now its rich and caked up because of the lack of compression.
is 30psi the highest reading out of the 3 faces in the front rotor? what were the 3 readings for the rotor?
12-02-2005, 09:55 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Stacked outside you're trailer door
Posts: 1,430
Originally Posted by vosko' post='783038' date='Dec 1 2005, 08:50 PM
i agree with the break in not necessary thing..... my old FD was broken with some big burnouts ha ha
So the rotors are set in a very short period of time? Why are so many people so adamant about long break in periods?
12-02-2005, 01:09 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: union, new jersey
Posts: 8,079
you're supposed to get 3 readings joe.... make sure you keep the release button pressed while the car is being cranked. if you only got 1 reading of 30... thats pretty bad cuz thats your highest reading.. lol
i know a few people that have gained compression as they broke their engines in. although when time is lacking, a few experts have advised me that a few leasurly miles would be good enough. its one of those better safe than sorry things.
im sure the condition of the housings whether they are new or old, and if your apex seals are new or old has some bearing in the amount of breakin you need to do considering that new housings have a somewhat course finish to wear the apex seals in faster.
i know a few people that have gained compression as they broke their engines in. although when time is lacking, a few experts have advised me that a few leasurly miles would be good enough. its one of those better safe than sorry things.
im sure the condition of the housings whether they are new or old, and if your apex seals are new or old has some bearing in the amount of breakin you need to do considering that new housings have a somewhat course finish to wear the apex seals in faster.
