In fact, it helps when they open too late or not at all so we wire them open to solve the problem. Yeah, you're right about the very low end torque but doesn't make a difference on a hard acceleration since you keep it over that rpm. Although it does make a difference on fuel economy and torque when cruising.

 

How do you find the sixth port and what do you do to wire it open?

???

 

Just above the exhaust manifold you can see two actuators with a short rod going to a rotating valve. You just tie them open the best you can with wire. You would gain a little more power by removing the port valve completely but would lose more low end torque.

BTW you should be able to open them up with your fingers so maybe you just need to lubricate the rod to unstick them. Try this before wiring them open.

 

*FPR = Fuel Pressure Regulator...its used to keep as much fuel pressure up as you can for higher RPMs. Your right, STOCK NAs don't like too much fuel..however, when you start getting into to porting or using large ports(from a cosmo) you will need more fuel to compensate for the air enrichment.

*I think they already explained the 5th/6th ports wired open thing.

*You can check with Dave Gibson at www.fc3s.org, or check with corksport too about the Cosmo motors.

*The cosmos are the same size as far as being 13B, but they have much larger intake ports then our 13Bs do...I believe they also have better side seals and corner seals too. They make like 250HP or something like that stock w/ no BOOST!

Hope that helps...

 

Thanks guys with all your help i probably have a 250hp daily driver in no time. honda's and mustangs beware



as for the cosmo swap are you referring to the cosmo 13bt or do they make an N/A cosmo? and are there any places where i could get info on the swap?

 

An easier way is to take the actuators off and just wiring them open like that.

 

Anyone have Dyno sheets from a N/A?

 

I have some dyno sheets from 1320 Engineering's testing....but I still haven't got a scanner