2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

New Rebuild Floods All The Time

Old 03-14-2003, 06:40 AM
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I did a search first but could not find an answer to this specific problem. The engine on my 87 GXL was rebuilt two weeks ago. It seems to run fine. I am having some problems with idling. It wants to idle at 1100 RPM. I remember prior to the rebuild it loved to stay at 750 which is what the stock calls for. But that is really not the problem.



The problem is that no matter how long I run it, no matter the temp outside or the time of day or night, it will flood after every shut down but only if it sits for a while after turning it off. If you start it again right away after warming up it won't flood. It will be flooded after it sits for a while though. It is getting to be a real royal pain in the *** pulling the EGI fuse every time I need to start it up. Any thoughts?



Just a note: I do let it come up to temperature each time it is started. I have been doing most of the work on the car at night so I will start it up and let it run for a little bit, get up to temp. Then when I try to start it up the next morning it is flooded.
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Old 03-14-2003, 10:47 AM
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look for vacuum leaks, or misrouted hoses. my t2 did the same thing and it turned out that i had the vacuum lines on the acv mixed up.



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Old 03-14-2003, 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the response. I will check tonight.
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Old 03-14-2003, 11:14 AM
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did you get your injectors cleaned when you did the rebuild. one of them may be leaking and that is why it floods after it has sat for awhile.
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Old 03-14-2003, 02:23 PM
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When I put my NA 6 port back together I couldn't remember were this "black plunger thingy" went. It turned out to be the throttle position sensor. After I figured out what and where it went, It won't flood every time I had started it. At full throttle the plunger is extended, not retracted. I think the sensor was saying "more fuel please"- flood-flood-flood. I could be wrong however, but check you TPS to see if is connected.
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Old 03-14-2003, 04:10 PM
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I'd check the injectors to make sure they're not leaking when closed with fuel pressure behind them. Other than that, just give everything a once-over using the shop manual for reference. You'll probably find a number of things not quite right.
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Old 03-15-2003, 09:21 PM
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The injectors are brand new because the injectors are what caused the need for the rebuild in the first place. They had gone bad and were blowing in fuel, burned the apex seals and also burned out the catalytic convertors.



I replaced the convertors with a Bonez Superflow system on Friday. The car sounded good but still ran like a POS.



Today, I noticed that the lock nut on the crank angle sensor was loose and the crank angle sensor had completely slipped out of postition causing the timing to be off. I went and bought a timing light, fixed the timing and the car runs very well now. Has excellent power for an N/A and good acceleration which it did not have before. If the shop that rebuilt the engine left this nut loose, I hate to find what else is wrong.



There are so many damn hoses on this car, I do not know where to start for vacuum leaks. Any suggestion on a methodical way of proceeding? I do have the Haynes manual but it can be difficult to follow sometimes.
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