dual oil coolers?
#12
I don't think you need to upgrade your oil cooler unless you are running 400+ HP.
FWIW that dual oil cooler setup on teamfc3s.org looks cool. But would be crap on the race track. A small bump and you would have destroyed one and causes a oil leak and loss of oil. Last thing I want to do is not finish a race because I got tapped or someone tapped me right where the oil cooler was.
FWIW that dual oil cooler setup on teamfc3s.org looks cool. But would be crap on the race track. A small bump and you would have destroyed one and causes a oil leak and loss of oil. Last thing I want to do is not finish a race because I got tapped or someone tapped me right where the oil cooler was.
#15
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='905136' date='Jul 21 2008, 08:58 AM
everyone throws vents and ductwork around, but I cant recall one person actually doing it.
when you look under there aint a whole lot you can do as far as venting goes
when you look under there aint a whole lot you can do as far as venting goes
#16
Originally Posted by Walt' post='910807' date='Oct 29 2008, 08:39 AM
I know the thread is getting a little old, but I would like to be more talk about oil coolers (dual vs single) and what is possible with venting and ducting.
best (simplest) is to add a little flap under the cooler (like an 80's gm car) so the oil cooler air comes from under the car.
the other things you can do are to seal off the radiator opening, so the air that goes in the nose HAS to go thru the coolers, we did this with cardboard and duct tape on the racecar back in the day
you can also seal the oil cooler to the stuff around it.
#18
Originally Posted by Black91n/a' post='910852' date='Oct 30 2008, 12:46 AM
Or you can get a lip spoiler that has an opening in the bottom and duct it to the rad/oil cooler area. I did that with my Corksport "Odura" (?) lip.
any back to back testing with no other changes?
do you happen to have a oil temp gauge?
#19
I have VDO oil temp taken in the pan and water temp taken at the water pump, but cooling isn't an issue on the street so back to back testing would be useless. I did it so that I'd have more airflow at the track and I can run as hard as I want as long as I want with no cooling issues, but I've got not much more than stock power. I still could do with getting the temps down a bit (they get up to the 230 range), but they're not at the concern levels. Another way to get more airflow is to run a vented hood like they do on the C6R Corvette LeMans racers. This can help by lowering the pressure in the engine compartment and giving the air somewhere to go, which will help drive more airflow through the coolers. Also, sealing up any way for the air to go around the rad will help with water cooling, and you could try ducting around the oil cooler.
Many road racers use two stock FC coolers plumbed in parallel in the mouth, usually one in front of the other, which isn't ideal, but it's so oversized that it's more than adequite.
Many road racers use two stock FC coolers plumbed in parallel in the mouth, usually one in front of the other, which isn't ideal, but it's so oversized that it's more than adequite.
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