Can it be done?!?
07-07-2008, 02:28 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lompoc, Ca
Posts: 50
OK... (I can't even believe I am going to say this...) I have an 87... well I have two now... The second has a blown seals and I picked it up for $400. Mechanically sound otherwise. And obviously it is now my project car... But that is not what I am asking about... What I am asking about is this... There is a guy in a neighboring town who is selling a 13bREW from a 93 rx7. (I think that is the engine code... its a twin turbo) Can it be put into my car? Should it be put into my car? Or should I back out of this deal? He says it had 66k miles a slow leak with the turbos with backup turbos. And he said make me an offer on price. What do you guys think?!? And if its going to go in the bay is there a write up for something like that? Not to mention how much should I offer him? What would be a fair price for it? Help the ignorant. (because otherwise I am going to look for a t2 and drop that thing in there man.)
07-07-2008, 09:17 AM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Savannah, Ga
Posts: 2,763
Originally Posted by jwteknix' post='903829' date='Jul 7 2008, 06:37 AM
its gonna cost alot more and be alot more work then putting a tii in
I take it you havent done the swap...
Its not a hard swap, and its not terribly expensive. That being said, if money is tight, any engine swap is a bad idea. Cutting corners to save money is a disaster waiting to happen. You probably dont want to use the stock fc ecu, but I wouldnt want to use the stock ecu on a 20+ year old car anyways, especially when talking about more hp than stock. A standalone is the way to go.
Heres the details on my swap, and I make the engine mounts, and have sets in stock currently. Click my sig to to go my site, and the mounts can be ordered there.
heres another
07-26-2008, 02:26 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 564
I agree, its not that bad, lots of people over the years have said its not worth it, why do it, its to expensive etc etc..Its even easier if you use a haltech or motec..
My own car i used the stock FD harness's with Fd power FC, its fully wired so the stock fd ecu with diagnostics works as well.
If I hear one more "adapter mounts are garbage", I am gonna go ballistic.. I have my own adapter plate I made and used, its not all that different to the ones used in Japan by famspeed, REwing,blast engineering etc etc, like their cars, my car has a rather large turbo, and their is no problem with broken mounts. If fact I have less bridgeport rock than with the 13bt on stock FC mounts. If Blast can run 9's on an adapter plate, most peoples daily drivers will be fine on them.
Those that say there is no difference or little between bt and rew
,especially when it comes to using one for making big power.
For starters, especially over the s4,
-The irons are stronger in key areas
-the shaft is stepped to for clearance to allow for more oil flow and flex clearance, higher rpm
-the bearings are multiwindow with 360 degree oiling
-larger thrust bearings and plates, keep those even with a 8.5 rotor/counterweight change.
-built in baffle plate in oil pan, why the fd oil pan should be kept
-crank trigger ignition, no timing changes with endplay when motor is hot.
-larger ports than FC in the irons
-more cooling in spark plug area
-higher oil pressure with higher volume pump
-uses newest generation of turbo gaskets, you can switch to an FD front cover with no o-ring(98+), and an extra bolt.
-modern Serpentine belt system reduces slippage, and lasts longer
-better intake for plumbing I/C, better Throttle position sensor
-2 nozzle omp, FD also has lower injection rate
-If you core is new enough, you get clearance stepped rotors as well.
-larger throttle body with internal plumbed BAC
- plus a whole lot of small manafacturing changes built into the internal engine finishes.
Thats alot of extra goodness just for doing a block change. Sure you can build some of that stuff into an FC motor, but you will pay a lot extra, and most FC cores hanging around right now are not even worth rebuilding, the irons are completely shot, so all new irons + internal parts or a newer FD core? I built my REW from all new parts, it was cheaper than building a new 13bt as well, Mazda charges a premium for older parts. With the FD being production till sometime in 02, I am not gonna worry about suddenly being "ironless" should mazda wrap up production on FC engine parts, ala cosmo...
The plumbing isn't really all that hard, I had to cut and weld a few things, I found production rad hoses that mated everything up, even with monster intercooler piping, everything fit well. if I had an FD a/c setup, I probably would have kept my a/c. Looking back at it now, it was easier than what it first looked to be.
A guy I know in Japan is tearing up the stock turbo class in gymkana in Japan with an FC, its sporting an rew with stock twins turned up to 370 rwhp, nice rule cheater engine.
My own car i used the stock FD harness's with Fd power FC, its fully wired so the stock fd ecu with diagnostics works as well.
If I hear one more "adapter mounts are garbage", I am gonna go ballistic.. I have my own adapter plate I made and used, its not all that different to the ones used in Japan by famspeed, REwing,blast engineering etc etc, like their cars, my car has a rather large turbo, and their is no problem with broken mounts. If fact I have less bridgeport rock than with the 13bt on stock FC mounts. If Blast can run 9's on an adapter plate, most peoples daily drivers will be fine on them.
Those that say there is no difference or little between bt and rew
For starters, especially over the s4,
-The irons are stronger in key areas
-the shaft is stepped to for clearance to allow for more oil flow and flex clearance, higher rpm
-the bearings are multiwindow with 360 degree oiling
-larger thrust bearings and plates, keep those even with a 8.5 rotor/counterweight change.
-built in baffle plate in oil pan, why the fd oil pan should be kept
-crank trigger ignition, no timing changes with endplay when motor is hot.
-larger ports than FC in the irons
-more cooling in spark plug area
-higher oil pressure with higher volume pump
-uses newest generation of turbo gaskets, you can switch to an FD front cover with no o-ring(98+), and an extra bolt.
-modern Serpentine belt system reduces slippage, and lasts longer
-better intake for plumbing I/C, better Throttle position sensor
-2 nozzle omp, FD also has lower injection rate
-If you core is new enough, you get clearance stepped rotors as well.
-larger throttle body with internal plumbed BAC
- plus a whole lot of small manafacturing changes built into the internal engine finishes.
Thats alot of extra goodness just for doing a block change. Sure you can build some of that stuff into an FC motor, but you will pay a lot extra, and most FC cores hanging around right now are not even worth rebuilding, the irons are completely shot, so all new irons + internal parts or a newer FD core? I built my REW from all new parts, it was cheaper than building a new 13bt as well, Mazda charges a premium for older parts. With the FD being production till sometime in 02, I am not gonna worry about suddenly being "ironless" should mazda wrap up production on FC engine parts, ala cosmo...
The plumbing isn't really all that hard, I had to cut and weld a few things, I found production rad hoses that mated everything up, even with monster intercooler piping, everything fit well. if I had an FD a/c setup, I probably would have kept my a/c. Looking back at it now, it was easier than what it first looked to be.
A guy I know in Japan is tearing up the stock turbo class in gymkana in Japan with an FC, its sporting an rew with stock twins turned up to 370 rwhp, nice rule cheater engine.
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