89 GXL Starts, stalls hard, floods
#1
OK, so as not to be like most uninformed newb posts, here are the stats:
I have good compression on all 6 faces (95-100), I have good spark, no vacuum leaks that I know of (and I fixed quite a few), it floods and I've cleared it at least 15 times already (due to cranking without running), it has all the old gas drained out and new gas in the tank, new clean plugs, and a very fully charged battery.
Here is what happens:
As most poor old rotaries with minor problems, it was sitting for a while (a year or so) when I got it. After all of the above, I'll crank it and after 4-5 cranks, it'll run for 1-2 sec (high idle) then die hard (no sputter, just cutoff). Twice, it ran for almost 2 seconds and sputtered down. Then it won't crank again. So, I pull the plugs, unflood it, lube the chambers every few unfloods, clean the gas outta the plugs and try to find something else wrong. Now for the questions - Does it matter that I have 4 leading plugs (7s i think)? Is the AFM resistance supposed to slowly decrease as it's opened? What does the ECU look for (sensorwise) at startup? Is the 1-sec run and hard cut off what happens when you unplug your AFM?
At this point, I'm starting to think my AFM is bad. I'm also contemplating if fuel flow/pressure is bad, even with the supposed new(sed) pump in the tank.
Any and all help is much appreciated. I have searched and read threads for a few days, and while I've found some others with similar symptoms, none have been answered in a manner that seems to help me.
I have good compression on all 6 faces (95-100), I have good spark, no vacuum leaks that I know of (and I fixed quite a few), it floods and I've cleared it at least 15 times already (due to cranking without running), it has all the old gas drained out and new gas in the tank, new clean plugs, and a very fully charged battery.
Here is what happens:
As most poor old rotaries with minor problems, it was sitting for a while (a year or so) when I got it. After all of the above, I'll crank it and after 4-5 cranks, it'll run for 1-2 sec (high idle) then die hard (no sputter, just cutoff). Twice, it ran for almost 2 seconds and sputtered down. Then it won't crank again. So, I pull the plugs, unflood it, lube the chambers every few unfloods, clean the gas outta the plugs and try to find something else wrong. Now for the questions - Does it matter that I have 4 leading plugs (7s i think)? Is the AFM resistance supposed to slowly decrease as it's opened? What does the ECU look for (sensorwise) at startup? Is the 1-sec run and hard cut off what happens when you unplug your AFM?
At this point, I'm starting to think my AFM is bad. I'm also contemplating if fuel flow/pressure is bad, even with the supposed new(sed) pump in the tank.
Any and all help is much appreciated. I have searched and read threads for a few days, and while I've found some others with similar symptoms, none have been answered in a manner that seems to help me.
#2
Originally Posted by animantoric' post='897084' date='Mar 23 2008, 11:53 PM
Is the 1-sec run and hard cut off what happens when you unplug your AFM?
#3
Hey Baldy, I see you're in Tallahassee too, you have a N350 AFM that I could swap in to test this theory? That would be sweet...
Can someone with an S5 N/A AFM ohm out the potentiometer section and tell me that the resistance goes down smoothly from closed to open? That would help me determine if I need a new one...
Can someone with an S5 N/A AFM ohm out the potentiometer section and tell me that the resistance goes down smoothly from closed to open? That would help me determine if I need a new one...
#6
with my coolent temp sensor unpluged (ecu one on back of water pump housing) id run into the same type of problem. After several times of it reving up and dieing out like its flooding out, id get it to hold rpm close to 3K with my foot on gas then it would run ok after a min or so....
double check that sensor is pluged in. it causes problems when its cold.
double check that sensor is pluged in. it causes problems when its cold.
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