4 To 5lug Conversion
#2
You'll need the 5-lug hubs, and if you do the 4-piston brake calipers (why swap to single, that sucks!), the brake lines from the calipers, the booster and proportioning valve from the donor car.
Remove the axle nuts on the rear, remove the single shock nut on the rear, and I think 2 other bolts that hold the rear hub to the control arm. You may have to use a gear puller to get the hub off the axle. Also remove the brake line (flared-nut wrench), and e-brake cable.
The front, remove the 2 bolts that hold the hub to the shock, the pinch bolt for the ball joint, the cotter pin/castle nut for the steering arm thingy, and I think maybe 1 other bolt that holds the hub to the control arm. Also remove the brake line (flared-nut wrench).
Booster is easy to replace, I think it's 4 bolts, remove the nuts inside the cabin above the pedals. 2 bolts hold the master cylinder to the booster. The proportioning valve is held in place just by all the brake lines, I think. Bleed the master cylinder, bleed all the brake lines, check to be sure you have good brake pads, smooth rotors, good bearings (mine were bad on the donor pieces), and I think that's it.
I'm sure I missed something somewhere, someone help me out.
Remove the axle nuts on the rear, remove the single shock nut on the rear, and I think 2 other bolts that hold the rear hub to the control arm. You may have to use a gear puller to get the hub off the axle. Also remove the brake line (flared-nut wrench), and e-brake cable.
The front, remove the 2 bolts that hold the hub to the shock, the pinch bolt for the ball joint, the cotter pin/castle nut for the steering arm thingy, and I think maybe 1 other bolt that holds the hub to the control arm. Also remove the brake line (flared-nut wrench).
Booster is easy to replace, I think it's 4 bolts, remove the nuts inside the cabin above the pedals. 2 bolts hold the master cylinder to the booster. The proportioning valve is held in place just by all the brake lines, I think. Bleed the master cylinder, bleed all the brake lines, check to be sure you have good brake pads, smooth rotors, good bearings (mine were bad on the donor pieces), and I think that's it.
I'm sure I missed something somewhere, someone help me out.
#4
banzai=good seller
If you're one of those "do what I can while I'm there" people, you might want to look into an LSD, the rear-steer eliminating bushings, and maybe all the other bushings as well. You could remove the entire rear subframe, and get everything done at once.
If you're one of those "do what I can while I'm there" people, you might want to look into an LSD, the rear-steer eliminating bushings, and maybe all the other bushings as well. You could remove the entire rear subframe, and get everything done at once.
#7
Originally Posted by MattMoMoney' date='Jun 30 2004, 10:41 PM
whats the difference i was told if i had a 4 lug to run away. I thought it would be maybe a different suspension but according to the parts ou listed it looks like brakes and the hubs so what is the point?
I don't know if there is an advantage of changing out the single piston brakes to 4 piston brakes? Prove me wrong.
#8
Originally Posted by RowTarEh?' date='Jun 30 2004, 11:44 PM
I don't know if there is an advantage of changing out the single piston brakes to 4 piston brakes? Prove me wrong.
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