Is there a fix for a sticky slider? I'm affraid of spraying WD40 near the rotor.



Hmm, the fan is actually too large for the core. It's got two inches of overhang. Maybe if I blocked the gaps so more air would go directly through the core? I also still have that air oil cooler to try, but it would sit in front of the rad and block half of it. Is it a good idea to just go with the air oil cooler?

 

Some stuff I've thought about doing:



1)keep the rebuilt engine in it and deal with crappy idle, low power etc during break-in

2)swap engines with the good running recent rebuild in my white REPU

3)throw the 20B in if I can get it to run on the dellorto (still haven't test fired yet )



The problem with option 1 is the car can't be driven to break in the engine since it doesn't have legal registration yet. It's gotta run good for inspection. Catch 22 type stuff.



Option 2 could work, but I honestly don't want to go through with it. At least not at this particular moment. The white REPU runs great and I don't really want to (possibly) screw it up. The Cosmo is the only other runner around here, but it's got several problems that need attention.



Option 3 is a possibility. I talked to the guy who did the original unfinished 13B swap into the GLC, and he said a 20B would probably be fine for inspection as long as it's not too loud, and kept the receipt (I did). I also wanted to drive the car for a while with the 13B in it before the 20B swap.



Well, low and behold (that's getting old lol), I've just driven it with the 13B in it, the exhaust with only one glasspack was quieter than the REPU, the suspension felt ok with all the heavy REPU stuff like flywheel, cast iron water pump etc, the steering wasn't too heavy feeling (I'm used to an REPU, so anyway), and the water temp stays below 190 even with a beehive's heat load. Maybe my guage is messed up though because the oil temp still gets above 220 just sitting there, but the beehive's not that great to begin with, plus I can still improve the airflow through the core, not to mention the supply fitting on the rear plate is smaller ID than the 12A Y castings...



In other words, if the 20B will run with my custom dizzy, and idle/run on the dellorto's primaries, and the gas pedal can be redone in a timely fashion, I don't see why I couldn't just skip ahead and start installing the 20B in the car in a few days. I think I've solved the loud exhaust problem NA 20Bs are known for (that 120º pulsing resists muffling hehe). The air oil cooler mounted high will send heated air over the radiato which will still get sucked by the 2" of E fan overhand at the top. I could simply block the bottom 2" of overhang with an SPRT style... something.



What do you guys think? I've already satisfied a long term goal of mine to drive the GLC with a 13B in it. It should be quiet enough with those RE glasspacks, and I can always remove one or two for more noise, should I need it and the air oil cooler with fan shroud mods should take care of the cooling requirements a third rotor will add to the mix. Engine weight ought not be a problem; it's only 16CM worth of extra engine length with similar intake and exhaust weights, with all the extra length going rearward. I also won't need the DLIDFIS aluminum plate mounted in the way of the oil cooler lines anymore, as seen here because the dizzy will have two ignitors on it in the stock locations, and the third will be on a short plate just big enough for one. It'll porobably fit on top of the engine near the third coil with minimal problems.



I've got to test fire the 20B as soon as possible. I'm like this right now for not having done it already. Fingers are crossed that the dellorto and dizzy will work.

 

I spent some time weighing things today.



Here are some old weights from last year.



13 2nd gen 13B rotor housing

14 12A eccentric shaft

9.5 13B rotor

5.5 '74 13B intake manifold

28.5 '73 RX-2 rear side housing (without stationary gear)

5? stationary gear

75.5 grand total





Here are some new ones from earlier today.



21.5 20B header I made

27.5 front plate Y casting (with stationary gear)

28 intermediate Y casting

29 intermediate R5 casting

11.5 '74-'85 13B rotor

14 '76 Cosmo rotor housing

34.5 rear plate Y casting (with stationary gear)

15.5 13B E shaft

15 12A E shaft

10 S3 alternator

5.5 dellorto DHLA

9.5 20B UIM

10 20B LIM

6 air oil cooler

22 '74 13B carb and intake manifold



From the Mazdatrix website:

31 REPU flywheel (I thought it was 33)

17 light steel flywheel with counterweight



I'm hoping to extrapolate the weight difference going from a heavy 13B to a stripped 20B. The only major piece of the puzzle that's still missing is the weight of the 80mm 20B-only intermediate plate. I'll still need to add in the weight of 17 or 18 tension bolts, but that's not nearly as important as the 20B-only plate. I'm sure the side plates of S5 and 20B/13BRE are also lighter than Y or R5 castings too.

 

Let's try to figure out the weights of the engines. I don't have weights for the waterpumps though. Oh well, here we go.



13B

22 '74 13B carb and intake manifold

27.5 front plate Y

29 intermediate R5

34.5 rear plate Y

11.5 rotor

11.5 rotor

14 rotor housing

14 rotor housing

15.5 13B E shaft

33 flywheel (without P plate or clutch)

I'd estimate the tension bolts are about 5 or 6 LBS, but I could be wrong.



218.5 total without waterpump, alternator, P plate and clutch



20B

5.5 dellorto

9.5 UIM

10 LIM

27.5 front plate Y (I'm sure the 20B irons are lighter, but it's ok to...)

28 intermediate Y (use the Y casting weights for this comparison in...)

34.5 rear plate Y (order to over-rate the weight of the 20B a little)

9.5 rotor

9.5 rotor

9.5 rotor

13 rotor housing

13 rotor housing

13 rotor housing

15.5 13B E shaft

7.5 half of 12A E shaft

17 light steel flywheel with counterweight



222.5 total without 20B-only intermediate, waterpump, alternator, P plate and clutch. The weight of the 20B-only intermediate should weigh around the same as the battery, give or take a little. The fact that the battery will be relocated and an aluminum waterpump will take the place of the cast iron one on the 13B, not to mention the 21.5LBS header which will spread its weight more evenly and rearward throughout the engine bay than the 13B cast iron manifold, only sweetens the deal. I'd like to find out how much that 13B manifold weighs soon.



It's interesting that the two engines are so similar in weight other than the missing 20B-only plate rating. Hopefully I'll know more tomorrow.



It'd be a trip if the front end actually becomes lighter with a 20B and a relocated battery than it currently is. I think j9fd3s knows what I'm talking about! The car even seems to steer and drive ok with all that weight, even with the wrong tires. 205 60 R13 what was the PO thinking?

 

So far, all I know is that the 20B-only intermediate plate weighs anywhere from 20-30LBS. Heh, that's as heavy as a battery. Not sure if that's with or without the stationary gear, but I'd assume it doesn't weigh much more than a front stationary gear (they're basically the same size). This means there will be a 20-30LBS weight penalty (is penalty the right word here?) added to the 222.5 I came up with last night. The saving grace is the aluminum waterpump, which I wasn't able to compare with a cast iron one, and the battery relocation to the back of the car. Oh, also the header's weight spread further rearward, as well as the entire engine's weight, helping to actually lighten the front of the car.



j9fd3s, it looks like my front end will get lighter, with only the air oil cooler's 6LBS (dry weight, but who cares) getting added to the very front of the car. Is that a dancing banana or what?



It looks like I'm going to do some UIM and LIM mods to work with the dellorto today. I wonder if I'll get finished in time to possibly test fire the 20B today? Wouldn't that be a boink? Well, if not today, then probably tomorrow... I'm so close!

 

The piston was not wanting to go in or out. I pumped it a little with the pedal and pushed it back in with a caliper piston tool several times. I had to use a pipe wrench on the plastic handle at first, but it eventually got easier untill I could crank it in by hand.



Now I've got to test drive the car since I've freed up the piston and replaced some questionable vacuum caps. I'll get to see if it's going to run any better now.

 

wow, um 1st a caliper slider can be greased, you just unbolt the caliper take it off the braket and grease the bolt and slider, if not its in the hydraulics.



i have a 20b center plate at work, i can weigh it, prolly friday, i have to make my 83 pass smog tomorrow , it passes the old style test with flying colors, but fails the dyno really badly



um so yeah id drive it around and break the 13b in in the glc, it sounds like you have some dumb small vacuum leak, or a seal thats not happy yet

 

If you could weigh that 20B plate, it would be very helpfull. Does it have the stationary gear in it?



So your FB fails under load? Hmm, too many hyrdocarbons?



As for the brake, I actually had to remove both 14mm short bolts to get the caliper bracket off before the caliper itself would come off. The rear pad got so hot the semi-metallic pieces were coming away from the epoxy stuff and looked odd. I just sanded the whole face of the pad to remove the glaze and make it look all even. I did the front pad too. I also roughed up the rotor while I was at it. Why not, right?



It pulls to the left a little now. I'd imagine this will clear up as the right side breaks in again.



It runs a bit better now. I can tell when the seals are happy because it'll suddenly run better. It also doesn't want to idle just yet. Replacing the bad vacuum caps helped considerably though. Yeah, I bet there's still a pesky vacuum leak. I should also probably get some new BUR7EQs because they should be hot enough to self-clean during break in, and the flat-topped electrode should help with spark propagation. The old ones I threw in came out of the 20B and have rounded electrodes.



I'd say right now the engine almost runs well enough to pass the inspection. The ironic thing is it might actually be easier to pass with the 20B. Can you believe it? It's because I have a recipt for it but I don't have all the recipts for the rebuilt 13B. Hmm.



The exhaust is still unfinished. I'm waiting to see if the 20B is going to run or not before I go through the process of finishing up the exhaust.



I'm going to begin working on a way to test fire the 20B. If it runs well enough, I'm going to weigh my options. At least the weight issue ought to be well, a non issue.

 

Should I put the brake booster tube on one of the secondary runners like it is on the dellorto manifold? Will the secondary pull enough of a vacuum? I could put the fitting right behind the carb if necessary.

 

well fb passed! i put a better cat in it and manually held the acv to dump to the ports with a vacuum pump. it actually failed in co? i'm not used to that



you should be able to put the brake booster on any of the runners and have it work, it stores vacuum for reasons like that



lol, easier time passing with the 20b eh?