20b In A Glc
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Hey Mike, any luck with any more fuel-only ECUs? I see what you're saying about just getting a regular ECU, from a cost standpoint. Any more info you could give me would be great.
Oh, and here's a pic of the car back when it still had the 13B and battery in it. Notice how much higher the back is?
Oh, and here's a pic of the car back when it still had the 13B and battery in it. Notice how much higher the back is?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,542
From: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Nov 7 2003, 04:09 PM
Basically any carb. With their 9" SC on it, it's got a square bore for Holley and Edelbrock. I already have an Edelbrock 750CFM carb, so I should be fine if I ever get their SC. In the mean time, all I've gotta do is get some aluminum stock and build a carb spacer.
Hmm, I wonder if they'd sell me a gutted SC? You know, just the front, middle, and rear housings with no peanuts?
I think I've got a break in the weather. Maybe I can fire up the MG in a few minutes? All I've got left to do is wire the fan to the relay and the thermocouple er uh thermostatic switch. Then it's check-for-leaks time.
Hmm, I wonder if they'd sell me a gutted SC? You know, just the front, middle, and rear housings with no peanuts?
I think I've got a break in the weather. Maybe I can fire up the MG in a few minutes? All I've got left to do is wire the fan to the relay and the thermocouple er uh thermostatic switch. Then it's check-for-leaks time.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
It's alive!
I cranked the engine for 10 seconds a couple times to get the oil pressure up. Then I put the ignitor connectors on and she fired right up.
Once warm, the engine fires up really fast, like within one second of cranking. I don't even have to touch the gas pedal. It runs so much better than it did in the truck. With the truck's weak fuel pump, it used to run dry if floored for too long in 3rd on level ground, or up a hill in 2nd. The truck's poorly made long primary exhaust system also had too much backpressure.
I haven't been able to drive it hard yet due to the brakes and other issues, but I think it will run cool enough so the 10" fan should be adequate. As it sits right now without a hood, the oil got up to 195ºF or so. It took 5 minutes of idling after it was fully warmed up (from driving) for the oil to get that hot. Otherwise, it should stay between 180-190º, right?
Note: I'm using a compost thermometer that is basically like a candy or cooking thermometer that can be poked into meat etc. Only this one's got a probe long enough to poke down the dipstick hole and into the oil pan. It's measuring the hottest oil in the engine (right after it comes out of the rotors) before it gets pumped into the cooler.
Here are some links to give you an idea of what the thermometer looks like.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Lawn_an...st_Thermometer
http://www.epinions.com/pr-Compostin...st_Thermometer
http://www.globeorganic.co.uk/pricelist_ct.htm
I cranked the engine for 10 seconds a couple times to get the oil pressure up. Then I put the ignitor connectors on and she fired right up.
Once warm, the engine fires up really fast, like within one second of cranking. I don't even have to touch the gas pedal. It runs so much better than it did in the truck. With the truck's weak fuel pump, it used to run dry if floored for too long in 3rd on level ground, or up a hill in 2nd. The truck's poorly made long primary exhaust system also had too much backpressure.
I haven't been able to drive it hard yet due to the brakes and other issues, but I think it will run cool enough so the 10" fan should be adequate. As it sits right now without a hood, the oil got up to 195ºF or so. It took 5 minutes of idling after it was fully warmed up (from driving) for the oil to get that hot. Otherwise, it should stay between 180-190º, right?
Note: I'm using a compost thermometer that is basically like a candy or cooking thermometer that can be poked into meat etc. Only this one's got a probe long enough to poke down the dipstick hole and into the oil pan. It's measuring the hottest oil in the engine (right after it comes out of the rotors) before it gets pumped into the cooler.
Here are some links to give you an idea of what the thermometer looks like.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Lawn_an...st_Thermometer
http://www.epinions.com/pr-Compostin...st_Thermometer
http://www.globeorganic.co.uk/pricelist_ct.htm
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Cool! Yeah, I was just trying to remember what I read in the Racing Beat catalog. I think there was something about the temp of the oil coming into the engine to be no higher than 200? Or anything higher would cause problems? Hmm, I'm going to dig it out...