20b In A Glc
07-15-2003, 03:24 AM
#101
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100 replies! 
Yeah, it's an FC starter. It came out of a junkyard. It says 87 RX7 in yellow writing on it.
I've never checked for a lip on a 1st gen, but it's probably the same on both cars. Have ballpien (sp), will travel. Yeah, I think I could shorten the pedal. It may feel funny with a raised floor there, but I'll get used to it.
The shifter will go back by 160mm. You know what? I'm only comfortable in that car with the seat all the way back. I installed my '79-'80 stick on the tranny and it's still kinda too far forward. I'm thinking the 20B will move the shifter rearward to a very good position, as long as it's ok with the E brake handle.
Yeah, it's an FC starter. It came out of a junkyard. It says 87 RX7 in yellow writing on it.
I've never checked for a lip on a 1st gen, but it's probably the same on both cars. Have ballpien (sp), will travel. Yeah, I think I could shorten the pedal. It may feel funny with a raised floor there, but I'll get used to it.
The shifter will go back by 160mm. You know what? I'm only comfortable in that car with the seat all the way back. I installed my '79-'80 stick on the tranny and it's still kinda too far forward. I'm thinking the 20B will move the shifter rearward to a very good position, as long as it's ok with the E brake handle.
07-15-2003, 01:58 PM
#104
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He's talking about putting a 20B where a 13B used to be. You have to absorb the extra length somehow. An FC can easily fit a 20B if the front of the engine goes forward 160mm and the tranny stays put. This however can hurt cornering and the polar moment of inertia. In my project, the front of the engine will stay put which requires that the tranny be moved back by 160mm. This won't help cornering, due to the extra weight of a 20B, but at least it won't hurt it much either.
So it's a little more involved to mount in my car, but the pros outway the cons. I'm also keeping it as light as possible. I may even move the battery to the rear hatch area (gotta get a leakproof or optima or something).
So it's a little more involved to mount in my car, but the pros outway the cons. I'm also keeping it as light as possible. I may even move the battery to the rear hatch area (gotta get a leakproof or optima or something).
07-16-2003, 12:23 AM
#105
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I just found out today that I could probably get away with a 20B afterall.
For those that haven't read through this thread, I'll recap a little. The GLC I'm working on came out of a wrecking yard, therefore it needs an "inspection" to get it back on the road. It's obviously never been in a wreck, but certain things like lights, wipers, not too loud (exhaust teehee), etc need to be deemed roadworthy. Apearantly that's it because '78 and older no longer have to pass emissions in my area.
I spent some time pulling out the carpet on the tranny tunnel, and trying to fit an '83-'85 tall two core rad. It's what a GSL-SE uses with an air oil cooler down there as well (no beehive for me). The rad is really tall and fairly wide. I have an old '79-'82 two core rad in my MG to measure from, and a three core verison would fit pretty well, but it'll cost like $200. I already have this other rad here, and it's in great condition. I also have a 16" electric fan that used to be in my REPU (I pulled it to use on my baja, but that idea fell through). I guess I could tilt the radiator a little to gain some extra clearance, but then I'd need to install a mockup 13B to see how much room I've got to play with. I'll also need to start cutting up the tranny tunnel soon.
Gotta get back out there and keep messing with the radiator.
For those that haven't read through this thread, I'll recap a little. The GLC I'm working on came out of a wrecking yard, therefore it needs an "inspection" to get it back on the road. It's obviously never been in a wreck, but certain things like lights, wipers, not too loud (exhaust teehee), etc need to be deemed roadworthy. Apearantly that's it because '78 and older no longer have to pass emissions in my area.
I spent some time pulling out the carpet on the tranny tunnel, and trying to fit an '83-'85 tall two core rad. It's what a GSL-SE uses with an air oil cooler down there as well (no beehive for me). The rad is really tall and fairly wide. I have an old '79-'82 two core rad in my MG to measure from, and a three core verison would fit pretty well, but it'll cost like $200. I already have this other rad here, and it's in great condition. I also have a 16" electric fan that used to be in my REPU (I pulled it to use on my baja, but that idea fell through). I guess I could tilt the radiator a little to gain some extra clearance, but then I'd need to install a mockup 13B to see how much room I've got to play with. I'll also need to start cutting up the tranny tunnel soon.
Gotta get back out there and keep messing with the radiator.
07-16-2003, 02:19 PM
#109
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Do you know where I could get one cheap?
I could bury the top of the rad under the shroud thing and use an FC Tstat cover. Or maybe not. Hmm, a 4 port 13B fits fine under the hood, but I think the blue air filter canister was in the way. Maybe an FC waterneck would be too tall. I think the rad is too close to the engine in the stock location. I could mount an SA rad on the AC condensor bracket. It would probably fit well there, and gain me a couple inches in front of the engine for a fan.
Gotta get back out there...
I could bury the top of the rad under the shroud thing and use an FC Tstat cover. Or maybe not. Hmm, a 4 port 13B fits fine under the hood, but I think the blue air filter canister was in the way. Maybe an FC waterneck would be too tall. I think the rad is too close to the engine in the stock location. I could mount an SA rad on the AC condensor bracket. It would probably fit well there, and gain me a couple inches in front of the engine for a fan.
Gotta get back out there...
07-17-2003, 01:34 AM
#110
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I spent all day figuring out the electrical situation under the hood. I found out which wires go to the stock alt (removed the dumb old external reg box), in preperation for an internally regulated alt.
The stock temp guage reads right on the C line when hooked to the 20B's temp tab thing near the oil filter (you all know which sensor I'm talking about), from across the room with aligator clips. Just gotta fire it up to normal operating temp (180ºF or 82ºC) on an aftermarket guage to see how accurate the stock guage is. The Ohms were .8k or .9k on the 20B, and .6k on a green sender. I can't remember what my other brown sender was. I just hope the thread pitch is the same.
Does anyone here know if Mazda kept the fine pitch threads on temp senders the same throughout the years? Also, does anyone know if the little hex plug under the oil filter has common oil pressure sender threads? If so, I'd like to use it.
The ignition system on a GLC is on the opposite side of a rotary car, so there are some (ratty looking) wires which used to lay across the engine to reach all the way over to the lower frame rail where two 1st gen coils are mounted. Since I'm under the clock so to speak, I may not redo them. I haven't decided yet.
I went ahead and drew an outline of what will need to be cut from the firewall to allow the tranny to move rearward by 160mm. I haven't figured out if I'll need to remove the tranny before cutting. I'm sure it would be easier to deal with if I did.
Last but not least I figured out a cool way to mount the tall rad. It'll sit under the front shroud near the hood with a hole cut for access to the filler cap. Luckily it's the small style. I've seen tall rads with both cap sizes. The air oil cooler will sit in front offset to the side so the oil lines can squeeze past the rad. It'll need custom hoses, but that's sort of a given, especially with a 20B.
Does anyone here know if I could get one of these Racing Beat oil filter bypass blocks and drill and tap it for a 1/2" NPT fitting? I've got a remote oil filter kit that's necessary to use in this small car, and I'm just lacking the pedistal replacement part. The kit has 1/2" NPT barbed fittings that didn't leak (heh) on the car it came out of, and if that bypass block is all I'll need, that would make my day.
The stock temp guage reads right on the C line when hooked to the 20B's temp tab thing near the oil filter (you all know which sensor I'm talking about), from across the room with aligator clips.
Does anyone here know if Mazda kept the fine pitch threads on temp senders the same throughout the years? Also, does anyone know if the little hex plug under the oil filter has common oil pressure sender threads? If so, I'd like to use it.
The ignition system on a GLC is on the opposite side of a rotary car, so there are some (ratty looking) wires which used to lay across the engine to reach all the way over to the lower frame rail where two 1st gen coils are mounted. Since I'm under the clock so to speak, I may not redo them. I haven't decided yet.
I went ahead and drew an outline of what will need to be cut from the firewall to allow the tranny to move rearward by 160mm. I haven't figured out if I'll need to remove the tranny before cutting. I'm sure it would be easier to deal with if I did.
Last but not least I figured out a cool way to mount the tall rad.
Does anyone here know if I could get one of these Racing Beat oil filter bypass blocks and drill and tap it for a 1/2" NPT fitting? I've got a remote oil filter kit that's necessary to use in this small car, and I'm just lacking the pedistal replacement part. The kit has 1/2" NPT barbed fittings that didn't leak (heh) on the car it came out of, and if that bypass block is all I'll need, that would make my day.