Hey all,

well it happened. The old 78 12a ( the third motor in this chassis, the first of course was the stock 12a which the previous owner tore out for a 13b which he then blew up. after that he put a new 12a in because the old 12a disapeared, go figure. then i got it) has died https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif . However, I got a new motor from Rob at Pineapple Racing and am in the process of getting it ready. No its not a 13b but, i am setting it up to what i think will be a fun car. below are some pics and a list of mods, tell me what ya think.



gilmer belt system

12.1 flywheel from tweakit

new clutch kit

5 speed trans upgrade

electronic ignition upgrade

massive grounding upgrade

custom engine bay wiring

85 12a block

will be custome blue and chrome block with black trans

RB road race header ( straight through as emissions are the devil)

all emissions removed ( revert to previous statement)

RB stainless oil cooler lines

RB counter balance ( because i couldn't find the right one any where!!)

New upgraded 3-row radiator

http://myspace-427.vo.llnwd.net/0052...20828427_l.jpg

motor before tear down

http://myspace-899.vo.llnwd.net/0052...20829899_l.jpg

old wiring

http://myspace-805.vo.llnwd.net/0052...20823805_l.jpg

new wiring, old motor

http://myspace-125.vo.llnwd.net/0052...20827125_l.jpg

the old torn down motor

http://myspace-443.vo.llnwd.net/0052...20825443_l.jpg

new motor (still cleaning it)

Sounds nice! It's good to see someone refreshing an old car and doing it well.

Just dropping a update on the car. here is the motor painted and ready.



http://myspace-570.vo.llnwd.net/0052...29986570_l.jpg



http://myspace-610.vo.llnwd.net/0052...29985610_l.jpg

looks good,, good luck

The next update. Here it is.

http://myspace-159.vo.llnwd.net/0054...41221159_l.jpg



Richard

lookin good. it's gonna be nice when you are all done

I am trying to figure out what killed my old motor. a 12a N/A shouldn't have gernading problems but that exactly what happened. The front rotor has a blown apex. broke itself perfectly in half. go figure....



richard

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I am a liitle worried however about the new motor and the old carb. How am I going to tune it? Should I go DYNO or should I feel it out? I do not have a gas analysing system so I am up for suggestions.

how many miles on it? they do sometimes just die of old age

You see that more and more with 12a's.Its too hard to kill a 12a.They just don't die that easily. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

The next update. Here she is. The motor had like 40 k known miles...

http://myspace-476.vo.llnwd.net/0055...54960476_l.jpg

That Gilmer drive is cool.

Alright guys next update!! I got the new header on and am preping th motor to pull the old flywheel. The new 12.1 lb flywheel just came in from tweakit and my RB counter weight has been attached, should the wind be blowing to the west with KAMISAMA (translation: god) smiling down upon my project, I should have my baby back on the road eating Hondas again https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif. OH, QUESTION does anyone have a sparco seat they no longer want or need, or know of some lumbar supports i can get my hands on? I have a "sprint" type seat already and it does its job while I am driving "spiritedly" but for all those long 3+ hour drives it hurts my lower back. Thanks

http://myspace-327.vo.llnwd.net/0057...71285327_l.jpg

http://myspace-939.vo.llnwd.net/0057...71289939_l.jpg

http://myspace-979.vo.llnwd.net/0057...71282979_l.jpg

http://myspace-809.vo.llnwd.net/0057...71280809_l.jpg

http://myspace-017.vo.llnwd.net/0057...71280017_l.jpg



Alright guys here we go. Need your opinion on what I did with the paint. The black at the base was mine.

Next what do you think of the motor setup. Cheers.

sano! looking good!

Hot car with just as hot wheels and motor.enough said. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Alright!!! I can't get this F**** flywheel bolt off!!! I have broken 2, count them, 2, 1/2 wrenchs. I was told to get the bolt hot then try to use a chisel the knock it free. I will try it tonight but i am not sure. Oh here is the flywheel 12.1lb.



http://myspace-473.vo.llnwd.net/0058...86559473_l.jpg

A stout impact wrench is the best way to go. The nut is supposed to be tightened to 250 (or is it 350?) lb/ft of torque, so you'll have to put some force on it one way or another.

Here she is finally, the new flywheel is on, the new clutch, and the 5-speed is on. Finally I can have my car back.. hahaha (evil laugh)

Be afraid hondas, be afraid.... [attachment=37206:attachment]

lol, anyone need a sig?

You'll have to explain "sig" to me. I am to young to know what that means lol, j/k. But seriously what does "sig" mean?

Sig = Signature

alright here we go boys and girls!! The motor is in!! Now i had a problem with the shifter since it is from a 85, so i had to cut around the shifter hole to make it fit, the real problem is making the plastic cover fit. I will have to cut, and i do not want to, but that is the way it goes. pics soon.

Alright,



The motor is in and the trans too. The radiator and oil cooler are bolted up and plugged in. driveline and electrical are up as well. There is only one problem.... THE CLUTCH FAN DOESN'T F****** FIT!!! I have tried everything and the stupid thing will not go on!!! So I think i need to get a electric type but i am not sure where to get it, how to install it, or how much its gonna cost. Could someone give me some info? Oh the radiator is 50% larger capacity.

There are two different sizes on the fan hubs, and I don't know offhand which year they changed. Either hit Pull-A-Part and get the right year used, or go electric (I went electric).

Looking good...my vote is for EEEELEKTRIK https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png



I love the pulley system. Where did you pick it up?

i picked iy up from www.tweakit.net. here are some of the pics i was promising. I am worried that i am forgeting something though. Besides the problem with the fan, this repair had gone very smoothly.... I know i am forgeting something.

[attachment=37490:attachment] [attachment=37491:attachment] [attachment=37492:attachment] [attachment=37494:attachment]

well, the end is here. The motor i have been working on is no good. I hadn't been able to get it to run and was wondering what was the problem. so i did recon for ignition etc. and it all worked out. BUT i hadn't checked the rear rotor when i bought it, so i did today. guess what? I bought a already blown motor. Rear rotor is totally trashed. I am not sure what i am going to do. I am a college student with no more cash to put into the car. That whole eating and paying for school thing you understand... So I think its time for me to call it quits....

Grab an engine from Pull-A-Part. Look for the Leak of Death. Pull the exhaust manifold off and check for apex seal gouges or burnt coolant. Check the plugs. Pull the pan. You can get a short block for dirt cheap and get it running.

I agree don't give up...you are too close.

Guys i did what ya told me to and kept the faith, praying i find a motor that is usable. Well i think i finally did! I found a donor car on craigslist and went out this last saturday to see if i would buy it. well I was NOT impressed with the condition of the car as you can see from the pictures. BUT the motor didn't have a leak or smoke, and there was no knocking from the apex seals. So ithought alright this motor should get me by until i head to japan after graduation. Well i get it home that saturday and pull the motor that saturday. Sunday i took off the mandrel bent 2 inch exhaust and OBX pop can muffler. After all that was done i pulled the exhaust manifold and guess what i found? Only ONE bolt on the manifold was tight, another two from the manifold where just screwed on, and the fourth was completely gone! So I look in the exhaust ports to see the damage and I become a little scared at the white carbon biuld up on the ports. But the apex seals were fine, I mean i got my finger in there and felt them and found almost no lip to them at all! And I saw that the rotor tips had been race clearenced for HIGH revving. I was like sweet this motor had been rebiult. Although i wasn't sure of it because i am still somewhat new at this whole motor thing. So i pull the trans mission and guess what i found?? A lightened flywheel, thats got to confirm it. This motor had to have been rebiult, definetly not by the punk a** kid that i bought from but the person before him. boys and girls I think my 78 will live.. OH i got the driving donor car for 700.00. And does anyone know what the Yellow wire with the black stripe is for on the chassis wiring harness? I know the black wire with the white stripe goes to the positive terminals on the dizzy and coils, and the yellow wire with the green stripe goes to the neg. coil terminals, but i do not know where the yellow with the black stripe goes!!!

OH YEAH

I got another question. How do i wire in a electric fan? Anyone know?

I bought a Flex-A-Lite Black Magic fan that came with a thermostat built in. I wired a fused hot, a ground, and a switched on so it can run whenever the key is on and it senses enough heat. If you're running a generic fan you can either wire it up so it runs whenever the fan is on, you can run it to a switch so you can turn it on and off (better not forget or you'll buy another motor), or you can get a fan switch and a relay.



I have a part number written down for a Honda fan switch that works, but I'll have to dig it out. IIRC, you wire the power side of the relay to a constantly hot fused source and ground normanlly, wire the positive of the control side to a switched hot, and ground the control side through the fan switch.

Another question i haven't been able to solve in reading past forum articles. I cut the harness that is attached to the car so i could remove all the extra wiring that is no longer used. But I need some help. The B/W wire in the chassis harness is the 12v source for the ignition right? What is the Y/B (yellow/black) wire for? And How would you wire the harness most concervativelly? I think I did a BIG NO NO....

ok next question, i want to lower the car after everything is running. I thought racingbeat springs,kosei k1 racing rims(powdered black to match the trim), low pro tires, and a mazdatrix camber kit to add the neg. camber i need to prevent rub. Good idea or bad? And yes i remember what i said about being poor but i got a great bonus this quarter from work so...

I have heard that generic 5" coils with desired spring rate work good. Tokico all the way around with coil-overs up front.



That is what I plan

I never got a reply on the harness question so i think i am going to put DLDFIS in the car instead of the old ign. setup. What i want to do is take to a/c bracket mod it to fit the three coils AND J109's. I don't think however that i am going to paint this motor, at this point i need to have my car back and another 30 hours of prep and paint aren't in order this time. BUT The tranny will get the paint job, the d*** thing is alwaays dirty so I will do that to make sure it is somewhat nice to look at. How loud do you think the exhaust is goint to be with the racing header from racingbeat, 2 inch mandrel all the way back, and a pop can exhaust? and do you think i will get afterburn from the straight setup. AND yes i have yet another question, how much electric stuff can i take off the stock 79 nikki? The afterburn valve is gone, the rats nest is gone along with all the wiring associated with it except a ground that goes to a thing ( not sure what it is but i will send a pic of the carb so everyone can see tonight) thanks guys(and possibly gals, not sure how many of the ladies frequent this forum)

Good luck.It sounds like she will scream. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

Really loud. I have a road race header running through dual 2 1/4" pipes to a straight-thru Dynomax Super Turbo dual-inlet/dual outlet muffler and two Supertrapp tips on the end. With all the plates on it's too loud for the street (but runs nice on the autocross course). With only four plates on it runs good, but is still too loud for anything but driving to and from the autocross. With three plates on it's quieter, but misfires over 7000 rpm. A lot of the noise comes straight off the pipes - they ping while the motor's running. But without a decent muffler you will get pulled over. The first time I drove mine with the new exhaust (didn't have the Supertrapps yet) I got pulled over 2 miles from my house. I still let off the gas when I see a police car just to keep the noise down a bit.



http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...08_40_full.jpg