Project Update
04-14-2005, 03:38 PM
#321
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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This electrical stuff has become a nightmare.
What is the best methodology to use in approaching shorts?
It would almost have to be in the Haltech wiring somewhere, somehow...the only other electrical I messed with that was in/on the car is that main fusible link...and basically all I did was add an extension to it.
What is the best methodology to use in approaching shorts?
It would almost have to be in the Haltech wiring somewhere, somehow...the only other electrical I messed with that was in/on the car is that main fusible link...and basically all I did was add an extension to it.
04-14-2005, 06:05 PM
#322
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 47
The best method is the process of elimination. Do as I said and try removing the main link. This will tell you if the short is somewhere in that circuit. You could also try to remove the red wire on the fusible links and see if it is reading battery voltage. If not, there is a problem with that wire. If that wire checks out and the headlights work properly when the main link is pulled, then the problem is somewhere on the main circuit (probably in the Haltech wiring). Try to remove the fuse to the Haltech next and see if the problem persists.
Is that line for the injectors (power) fused?
Do the headlight thing first and then try to remove and replace fuses one by one (start with the Haltech related fuses) to see where the problem is. Once you know at least where to look, then we can go through the wiring on that portion to see what may be wrong.
Kent
Is that line for the injectors (power) fused?
Do the headlight thing first and then try to remove and replace fuses one by one (start with the Haltech related fuses) to see where the problem is. Once you know at least where to look, then we can go through the wiring on that portion to see what may be wrong.
Kent
04-16-2005, 03:26 PM
#323
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Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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I'm not sure if the line to the injectors is fused within the loom, I'll have to check on that...
The good news is that the car is turning over just fine! The problem was bad battery connections. I charged the batter overnight and checked the connections and still wasn't getting any power. Using the MM I learned that the post extensions were not getting 12v, so I tightened them down some more and made sure they were getting the correct voltage. Then it turned over just fine.
The problem now is that my clutch master cylinder isn't working. It has fluid and everything, but the part that's supposed to move the clutch plate isn't extending.
I did start wrapping all of my electrical lines though in tape and conduit. I won't have much more time to work on it this weekend, sadly, because I'm going to the ALMS GT race tomorrow...the one with the 20b Renesis car.
Thanks for your help everyone, we're almost there!
The good news is that the car is turning over just fine! The problem was bad battery connections. I charged the batter overnight and checked the connections and still wasn't getting any power. Using the MM I learned that the post extensions were not getting 12v, so I tightened them down some more and made sure they were getting the correct voltage. Then it turned over just fine.
The problem now is that my clutch master cylinder isn't working. It has fluid and everything, but the part that's supposed to move the clutch plate isn't extending.
I did start wrapping all of my electrical lines though in tape and conduit. I won't have much more time to work on it this weekend, sadly, because I'm going to the ALMS GT race tomorrow...the one with the 20b Renesis car
Thanks for your help everyone, we're almost there!
04-17-2005, 04:33 PM
#324
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
what we do at this stage is to unplug the fuel pump and spin the cas, make sure the haltech sees an rpm signal, and it sparks and clicks the injectors and all that. if you're really cool you can pull the spark plugs out and zero the timing by cranking the motor over with no fuel or spark.
04-17-2005, 10:10 PM
#325
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 17 2005, 04:33 PM']what we do at this stage is to unplug the fuel pump and spin the cas, make sure the haltech sees an rpm signal, and it sparks and clicks the injectors and all that. if you're really cool you can pull the spark plugs out and zero the timing by cranking the motor over with no fuel or spark.
[/quote]
Make sure you don't rest your elbows on the fedner when doing this or touching other parts of the car. Gives you a nice shock that makes your whole arm numb for 3 or more days.
Before I start wrapping up the harness all nice and pretty I would make sure hte car ran done the street fine and back. Else if you have a problem all that hardwork goes into the garbpage when you have to cut it back open.
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Make sure you don't rest your elbows on the fedner when doing this or touching other parts of the car. Gives you a nice shock that makes your whole arm numb for 3 or more days.
Before I start wrapping up the harness all nice and pretty I would make sure hte car ran done the street fine and back. Else if you have a problem all that hardwork goes into the garbpage when you have to cut it back open.
04-17-2005, 10:17 PM
#326
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 17 2005, 04:33 PM']what we do at this stage is to unplug the fuel pump and spin the cas, make sure the haltech sees an rpm signal, and it sparks and clicks the injectors and all that. if you're really cool you can pull the spark plugs out and zero the timing by cranking the motor over with no fuel or spark.
[/quote]
How do I zero the timing? Do I need a timing gun for this and then just some patience or? I've never done anything like that before.
[quote name='Cheers!' date='Apr 17 2005, 10:10 PM']Make sure you don't rest your elbows on the fedner when doing this or touching other parts of the car. Gives you a nice shock that makes your whole arm numb for 3 or more days.
Before I start wrapping up the harness all nice and pretty I would make sure hte car ran done the street fine and back. Else if you have a problem all that hardwork goes into the garbpage when you have to cut it back open.
[/quote]
That's probably a good idea. I've just finished wrapping up the unused portions of the harness for now.
[snapback]701048[/snapback]
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How do I zero the timing? Do I need a timing gun for this and then just some patience or? I've never done anything like that before.
[quote name='Cheers!' date='Apr 17 2005, 10:10 PM']Make sure you don't rest your elbows on the fedner when doing this or touching other parts of the car. Gives you a nice shock that makes your whole arm numb for 3 or more days.
Before I start wrapping up the harness all nice and pretty I would make sure hte car ran done the street fine and back. Else if you have a problem all that hardwork goes into the garbpage when you have to cut it back open.
[snapback]701215[/snapback]
[/quote]
That's probably a good idea. I've just finished wrapping up the unused portions of the harness for now.
04-18-2005, 10:56 AM
#328
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Apr 17 2005, 11:32 PM']you lock the timing in the haltech, and see if it matches reality. the haltech doesnt know where the engine is in its rotation, you have to tell it
[/quote]
The question is, how do I know where the engine is in its rotation?
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The question is, how do I know where the engine is in its rotation?
04-19-2005, 10:25 AM
#329
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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Okay it's prepped with the exception of the throttle cables and a few radiator lines that need to have hoses attached and blocked off.
WRT the throttle cables, how can I secure these in some way to the firewall so that they are the right length? In other words, as it stands now, they are too long! They extend well beyond the TB, making it impossible to leave them unsecured and still be able to move the throttle plates with the accelerator.
I need to somehow position these so that they are "tight," allowing the accelerator to actually do something when I press it as opposed to being flat on the floor the whole time.
Does that make any sense?
In other news, the clutch now has pressure.
One more thing...I had to make a lot of Y connections with the main +12v (B/W) wire in the engine bay, so it looks really nasty with like 3 or 4 Ys in it. What's a simple, effective way of cleaning this up to make it look nice? Is there some sort of board or something I could wire all of these wires that needed ignition switched sources and connect them to that main +12v switched wire? I hope that makes sense...
WRT the throttle cables, how can I secure these in some way to the firewall so that they are the right length? In other words, as it stands now, they are too long! They extend well beyond the TB, making it impossible to leave them unsecured and still be able to move the throttle plates with the accelerator.
I need to somehow position these so that they are "tight," allowing the accelerator to actually do something when I press it as opposed to being flat on the floor the whole time.
Does that make any sense?
In other news, the clutch now has pressure.
One more thing...I had to make a lot of Y connections with the main +12v (B/W) wire in the engine bay, so it looks really nasty with like 3 or 4 Ys in it. What's a simple, effective way of cleaning this up to make it look nice? Is there some sort of board or something I could wire all of these wires that needed ignition switched sources and connect them to that main +12v switched wire? I hope that makes sense...