gsl-se addict

No problem, man. Can't wait to see how this thing runs. It will be a sweet machine. Let us know what you find out and we can try to track down any problems from there.

Dysfnctnl85

Okay so here's the latest:



I used some jumper cables to connect the batttery (-) to the engine. I then used some 8awg wire to run from the starter to the battery (-) (8awg is used as the + to the starter as well, and it did work at one point so I didn't think this was a big issue). So to recap, the battery is a)grounded to the chassis, b) the engine is grounded to the battery, c) the starter is grounded to the battery.



All the previous grounds I had (the small wires) were removed for this so that only the grounds described above were connected.



After connecting all of the wires and hooking the + wire to the battery, I notice the clock has power. I'm like ecstatic because I think everything is okay. I turn the key (to acc.) and get nothing. I then turn to start it and the clock loses power (starts to fade) and then goes off.



What the crap is going on?!!

gsl-se addict

Did you try your headlights? That may help to determine if the problem is with a fuse/fusible link. You still have that red wire (10 ga.?) running from the battery + to the fusible links, right? Are you sure that the battery is okay? How many volts is it putting out (check with multimeter)? It sounds like you have the grounds covered, so that shouldn't be the problem. Go check the headlights first, if they work and are bright, the problem must be with the fusible links/wiring.



BTW: When you talk about grounding the starter, you mean one of the bolts that hold the starter to the engine, right? You aren't connecting it to the starter solenoid, are you?



Kent

Dysfnctnl85

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Apr 11 2005, 07:11 PM']Did you try your headlights? That may help to determine if the problem is with a fuse/fusible link. You still have that red wire (10 ga.?) running from the battery + to the fusible links, right? Are you sure that the battery is okay? How many volts is it putting out (check with multimeter)? It sounds like you have the grounds covered, so that shouldn't be the problem. Go check the headlights first, if they work and are bright, the problem must be with the fusible links/wiring.



BTW: When you talk about grounding the starter, you mean one of the bolts that hold the starter to the engine, right? You aren't connecting it to the starter solenoid, are you?



Kent


[/quote]



The lights do not work, but the metal tabs that the link joins are showing 1.53volts. The headlight fuses are not showing any voltage.



The battery is perfect, reading 12v. The starter is grounded using the other post that has a wire going inside the starter body. Is this wrong?



The starter solenoid is connected using a little harness that goes to a connector (very hidden, I might add) near the backside of the strut tower.



I hope that helps you help me, haha.

gsl-se addict

Okay, we have found the problem. You DO NOT want to connect a ground to that starter post. That post feeds battery voltage to the starter during cranking. How it works is the starter solenoid acts as a switch (since a normal switch would be huge to handle the kind of current the starter needs). One post of the starter goes to the battery + and the other just goes to the starter body (nothing else connected). When the trigger wire sees voltage (the wire you had a hard time finding), the solenoid makes a connection between the + battery cable and the stater (though the wire that goes to the starter body). When you connected a ground to this point, when you tried to start the car, you made a direct short to the battery. This is why you had the pop and smoke. Hopefully your battery is not damaged. I suspect that the fusible links may be blown and possibly some of the fuses. Go ahead and disconnect that starter ground. You could connect that wire instead to one of the starter mounting bolts or on of the other bolts that connect the engine to the starter (this will act as the engine ground, so you will not need the jumper cables connected between the chassis and the engine).



Once disconnect that wire and connect it to the engine instead, go through and check the voltage at the fusible links (should be about 12v). If it is not 12V, but your battery is at 12v, then there might be another short or there is a bad connection on that wire. Good luck, man. Let us know what you find out and then we will take it from there. You are also welcome to pm me to ask questions if you think that would be easier.



Kent

Dysfnctnl85

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Apr 11 2005, 10:02 PM']Okay, we have found the problem. You DO NOT want to connect a ground to that starter post. That post feeds battery voltage to the starter during cranking. How it works is the starter solenoid acts as a switch (since a normal switch would be huge to handle the kind of current the starter needs). One post of the starter goes to the battery + and the other just goes to the starter body (nothing else connected). When the trigger wire sees voltage (the wire you had a hard time finding), the solenoid makes a connection between the + battery cable and the stater (though the wire that goes to the starter body). When you connected a ground to this point, when you tried to start the car, you made a direct short to the battery. This is why you had the pop and smoke. Hopefully your battery is not damaged. I suspect that the fusible links may be blown and possibly some of the fuses. Go ahead and disconnect that starter ground. You could connect that wire instead to one of the starter mounting bolts or on of the other bolts that connect the engine to the starter (this will act as the engine ground, so you will not need the jumper cables connected between the chassis and the engine).



Once disconnect that wire and connect it to the engine instead, go through and check the voltage at the fusible links (should be about 12v). If it is not 12V, but your battery is at 12v, then there might be another short or there is a bad connection on that wire. Good luck, man. Let us know what you find out and then we will take it from there. You are also welcome to pm me to ask questions if you think that would be easier.



Kent


[/quote]



Great! I'd rather expose my stupidity to all because it will probably be useful for someone else in the future.



I'll try this when I get home tonight and see what happens!



If I had posted this on the TurboFB or Haltech mailing lists they would have scoffed at me for not being an electrician...hah.

gsl-se addict

Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes. Don't feel stupid, everyone makes mistakes sometimes. This seems especially true when it comes to electrical work. Hopefully nothing is damaged (except for maybe some fuses or fusible links). Go through and check all fuses (in the passenger compartment, for the Haltech, and the links). Let's get that thing cranking, so we can see how she runs.



Kent

Dysfnctnl85

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Apr 12 2005, 01:07 PM']Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes. Don't feel stupid, everyone makes mistakes sometimes. This seems especially true when it comes to electrical work. Hopefully nothing is damaged (except for maybe some fuses or fusible links). Go through and check all fuses (in the passenger compartment, for the Haltech, and the links). Let's get that thing cranking, so we can see how she runs.



Kent


[/quote]



Last night I connected the jumper cables from the battery (-) to the bolt that holds the starter to the transmission.



After doing this, I went to start the car (or turn it over at least) and noticed I had no power. I messed around with some other things on the car that needed to be done, namely, getting the throttle cables positioned correctly (which I can't seem to do right...they are too long or something) and check the clutch master cylinder (which isn't working either, argh!). Right when I was ready to close the garage out of frustration, I noticed my lights were on. WTF, right?



Go to turn it over and get the solenoid to click, but no rotation or anything. Try it a few more times with no success and then power disappears again. I checked all fuses and they were okay, so I checked the voltage on the main fusible link. It was reading around 1.1-1.2 volts, but I'm not sure what's normal.



DigitalSynthesis did bring my attention to something though: the battery, being relocated, is a lot farther away from the links. Could I be losing too much current, and that's why I don't have power?



I dunno, let me know what you think.

Cheers!

[quote name='Dysfnctnl85' date='Apr 14 2005, 12:22 PM']Last night I connected the jumper cables from the battery (-) to the bolt that holds the starter to the transmission.



After doing this, I went to start the car (or turn it over at least) and noticed I had no power. I messed around with some other things on the car that needed to be done, namely, getting the throttle cables positioned correctly (which I can't seem to do right...they are too long or something) and check the clutch master cylinder (which isn't working either, argh!). Right when I was ready to close the garage out of frustration, I noticed my lights were on. WTF, right?



Go to turn it over and get the solenoid to click, but no rotation or anything. Try it a few more times with no success and then power disappears again. I checked all fuses and they were okay, so I checked the voltage on the main fusible link. It was reading around 1.1-1.2 volts, but I'm not sure what's normal.



DigitalSynthesis did bring my attention to something though: the battery, being relocated, is a lot farther away from the links. Could I be losing too much current, and that's why I don't have power?



I dunno, let me know what you think.


[/quote]





I think you have a short somewhere.

gsl-se addict

^ I agree. The tab on the fusible links should be seeing battery voltage, as the red wire you connected goes directly to the battery +. The only way it would be 1.2 volts, is if there is a short pulling it down. You are measuring voltage between the metal tab and ground (chassis or engine), right? Try pulling out the main link (center one) and try your headlights. The short is likely in the main circuit as you didn't make any changes to the headlights. See if the headlights raise and lower and if they come on. Check the voltage at the tab again. If the headlights



I imagine that your battery may be getting low because of this shorting. You may have to charge or jump the battery once you get the electrical problems fixed.