gsl-se addict

I am not sure about the fusible link as I have not removed mine. I belive that it is probably a u-shaped connector of some kind. Try to take the fusible link block off of the strut tower and see if you can find a way to connect it. It sounds link the wire you ran to the battery was the old alt wire, except the alt wire usually has a ring connector. In the stock configuration, the battery terminal positive has a smaller wire (black) that connects to the fusible link block (that metal plate on on of your pics). This powers all connections from the block with the W/R wire being the output for the lights and main.



If you are using the W/R wire to connect to the battery, the circuit is no longer protected by the links. In addition, now power for everything is running through the main link (battery --> to everthing normally on the main --> main link --> where battery normally connects --> headlight/retractor fusible links) This means everything that would be on the main link is not protected and a failure of the main link would take out power to both the headlights and retractors (normally separate circuits) because they are now getting powered through the main link.



It may be easier to go ahead and change to the 2nd gen fuse box. Just run a wire from the battery to the main connection on the fuse box (6 or 8 ga.) and then connect everthing from there.



Kent

Dysfnctnl85

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Mar 16 2005, 03:01 PM']I am not sure about the fusible link as I have not removed mine. I belive that it is probably a u-shaped connector of some kind. Try to take the fusible link block off of the strut tower and see if you can find a way to connect it. It sounds link the wire you ran to the battery was the old alt wire, except the alt wire usually has a ring connector. In the stock configuration, the battery terminal positive has a smaller wire (black) that connects to the fusible link block (that metal plate on on of your pics). This powers all connections from the block with the W/R wire being the output for the lights and main.



If you are using the W/R wire to connect to the battery, the circuit is no longer protected by the links. In addition, now power for everything is running through the main link (battery --> to everthing normally on the main --> main link --> where battery normally connects --> headlight/retractor fusible links) This means everything that would be on the main link is not protected and a failure of the main link would take out power to both the headlights and retractors (normally separate circuits) because they are now getting powered through the main link.



It may be easier to go ahead and change to the 2nd gen fuse box. Just run a wire from the battery to the main connection on the fuse box (6 or 8 ga.) and then connect everthing from there.



Kent


[/quote]







Here is a pic of the W/R wire which is now running to the battery. I don't want to jeopardize the electical system so I guess I need to correct this connection and just connect this wire to the link somehow, and then the W/R to the link as well...



[attachment=29372:attachment]

gsl-se addict

Was that wire connected to the fusible links? I am just trying to figure this all out. The old alt wire should be W/R with a ring terminal. It should be next to the old alt plug (B/W and W/B wires) with the top terminal horizontal and the bottom vertical. If that is the old alt wire, you will just need to connect it to the alt output post and run a new wire from the battery to the fusible link block (metal tab sticking out) and you should be set. This way you won't have to remove/add wire to the fusible links block. Once you get it running and tuned, then we can look into upgrading the wiring and fusible links.



BTW: It is a really sweet project that you have going. It is too bad so much info was lost after the hack. Although I don't post much here, I really enjoyed coming here and reading about your project.

Dysfnctnl85

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Mar 16 2005, 03:39 PM']Was that wire connected to the fusible links? I am just trying to figure this all out. The old alt wire should be W/R with a ring terminal. It should be next to the old alt plug (B/W and W/B wires) with the top terminal horizontal and the bottom vertical. If that is the old alt wire, you will just need to connect it to the alt output post and run a new wire from the battery to the fusible link block (metal tab sticking out) and you should be set. This way you won't have to remove/add wire to the fusible links block. Once you get it running and tuned, then we can look into upgrading the wiring and fusible links.



BTW: It is a really sweet project that you have going. It is too bad so much info was lost after the hack. Although I don't post much here, I really enjoyed coming here and reading about your project.


[/quote]



You've provided invaluable information for helping me complete it, for that I'm thankful! And of course all the others who've helped me so far.



That wire is an unknown for me, honestly, because I don't remember. None of my pictures have enough detail to see exactly how the alternator was hooked up and what wires were there to begin with. It's my fault for not being organized enough, but I thought I was doing a good job...initially. The worst thing that could happen is that I hook up power to the fuses and hook that wire backup to the alternator and nothing happens. We shall see shortly...I have to pick up some transmission fluid and some cheap synthetic to run in the motor for the first startup. That is, if I can get it to start tonight =).

Dysfnctnl85

As an afterthough, could that wire have been attached to the starter? It would have been a very, very tight fit though...it would make more sense if it was attached to the alternator.

gsl-se addict

No, it can't be for the starter. The starter just uses the main + battery cable and a B/Y wire for the solenoid. If you didn't remove it from the fusible links block, it is pretty much safe to say that it is the alt output wire. The only other heavy wire with that color combination are:



main link to ignition switch

main link to fuse box (in passenger compartment)

main link to alternator

headlight link to headlights



So as long as the ignition swicth, headlights, and other accesories (dash lights, wipers, etc) work, it is definitely the alt output wire.



Good luck on getting it fired up. One thing people sometimes make mistakes with using standalones is that they connect the power to a line that doesn't have power when cranking (just in the 'ON' position). The ignition switch/fuse box has two types of circuits for the 'ON' position (one has power while cranking and the the other one doesn't). Just a tip in case you run into that problem.



It makes it hard to track, because when you stop cranking (trying to figure out why it won't start) the unit now has power and everything appears to be great.



Good luck.



Kent

Dysfnctnl85

Yay! I cut the wire I had linking the R/W wire to the battery and connected it to the fusible link block. I then took the R/W wire and connected it to the alternator, and voila, we still have power. Everything works but my reverse lights, so I guess I missed a connector on the trans.



Next is the starter. I hunted for that B/Y wire you said was connecting to a solenoid, but didn't come up with anything. Could I have removed this wire when I yanked the engine?

gsl-se addict

So you ran a wire from the battery + terminal to the metal tab on the fusible links and then took the W/R wire (that you had connected to the battery) and connected it to the alt output post? If so, that sounds like the right way to do it.



The wire for the starter is a heavy wire (about like the alt wire) that is black with a yellow stripe (stripe is white on auto cars) with a black plastic connector on the end that slides over the tab on the starter's solenoid. The starter solenoid wire is on the same harness as the transmission, so you should be able to find it down by the wires for the reverse/neutral switch.



Kent

Dysfnctnl85

[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Mar 16 2005, 11:14 PM']So you ran a wire from the battery + terminal to the metal tab on the fusible links and then took the W/R wire (that you had connected to the battery) and connected it to the alt output post? If so, that sounds like the right way to do it.



The wire for the starter is a heavy wire (about like the alt wire) that is black with a yellow stripe (stripe is white on auto cars) with a black plastic connector on the end that slides over the tab on the starter's solenoid. The starter solenoid wire is on the same harness as the transmission, so you should be able to find it down by the wires for the reverse/neutral switch.



Kent


[/quote]



Aye. I shall get under the car after I get home from work tomorrow and take some pics. I should be able to find it though. Thanks!

Dysfnctnl85

I spent a good amount of time in the garage today trying to get everything working. The first thing I worked on was the fuel pump. Once I got the ECU on I realized the fuel pump wasn't turning on. GreyGTC helped me out and we determined that 1) I had blown a fuse and 2) the guys at ProStreetPerformance (or whoever wired the fusebox) put the fuses in the wrong locations. The 3amp fuse was in the spot the fuel pump fuse was supposed to be. So that explains why it blew.



After hooking everything up (or so I thought) I tested it and noticed fuel had hit my hood. Turns out I had the lines hooked up wrong (). Well once I fixed that, I noticed a new problem. Fuel was leaking from the injector feeds on the primary rail.



After analyzing the situation, I had a hunch as to what the problem was. I think it's the O-rings. Fuel was still getting to the secondary rail though, which I thought was weird. My dad seems to think it's a pressure issue, but I don't see how pressure has anything to do with it, especially when the engine isn't cranking.



Anyways, here's some pictures so you all can visualize the situation:



[attachment=29435:attachment]



[attachment=29436:attachment]



[attachment=29437:attachment]



[attachment=29438:attachment]



Is it possible that the o-rings are too large for the injectors, or that they are too small? I'm really scratching my head on this one.