woundup7

Wow, 1600, aint going to get it done, I did all my own fab work, intercooler pipes, tranny mount, front cover, oil pan, shifter relocation on the T2 tranny, fmic setup, standalone ecu wiring, The only thing I farmed out was the exhaust, fender rolling, and some aluminum welding, My wife is on the boards, so I will be somewhat conservative well north of 5K on the turbo motor and tranny swap, not even counting my labor, Christ, I have over $900 just in tuning costs.



Find a good running S-4 na motor, throw a weber, exhuast, flywheel, and be happy. Save your money, Ask Zbeater, he knows my car, and I know his pretty well too. Hes in the middle of a REW swap in a fb, probably close to 10k on the car. It will be a monster when hes done though.

herz3mc

If you search turbo fb here you should find lots of information and probably somewrite ups of most of the steps. You will need more than $1600.



Locally (WA state) z-beater is working on a 13b REW, woundup7 has already completed an s5 TII swap, codeblue2 is turbo'd, hyperformance2k too. And I'm probably missing some other folks as well.



You'll need a tII tranny.



Good luck and have fun!!

79FBoG

ok i didnt say 1600 to get it done i said 1600 for the 13B-REW with ECU and tranny. i just wanna know what i need to get the thing in. plus i have to get at least 350HP from any other of these motors for my drifting so any help is appreciated

z-beater

Ok, so since the ice has been broken a little I will go a little deeper.



1. the REW swap is not much different than the TII swap. There are a few different things here and there. Mostly these differences are minor and are easy to overcome.



2. If you are running anything more than stock I suggest that you throw a PFC in there. If you go to the 3rd gen section you will see that people with minimal mods(dp, exhaust, FMIC) have a stand-alone. The 3rd gens computer does not adapt very well to mods. It would be easiest to get a 3rd gen harness and adapt it to the first gen. Woundup did this swap in his first gen but used a S5 harness. The PFC is fairly affordable as well and is a plug and play affair. You can pick the PFC up for 690+shipping.



3. Adapting the 3rd gen tranny is a pain. I contemplated this since I already had one. In the end the fab work required would have been more hassle than it was worth. It has been over a year since I tried to fit the FD tranny up to my GSL-SE so bear with me here, my memory is kind of foggy. The shifter is further back on the FD tranny which means that it does not pop up in the shifter location. Since the tranny is setup differently you cannot move the shifter forward to accomodate the swap. On the second gen you can move the shifter forward which allows you to put it in the 1st gen chassis. Before I decided to go with a TII tranny I did a lot of research on the durability. What I found is that everyone seemed to think that the TII tranny was plenty stong enough to hold the power. I was seeing second gens that were putting out just as much power as 3rd gens and not having tranny issues. Last but not least the 3rd gen clutch setup is a PAIN. I struggled to seperate the engine and tranny while it was in the car. I ended up pulling the motor and tranny as one because it was easier. Sell the FD tranny for 400-500 and re-coop some of your cost. TII trannys can be had for 250.



4. Establish a price range. Got that number in your head? Ok now double it. That is what it is going to cost you.



5. If you want 350hp (I assume WHP) then you are going to need to at least upgrade the twins. I have seen stock units a little over 300 but you will be pushing it at 350. 350 will be plenty in a first gen. You don't need gobs of power like other cars to roast the tires. Just as woundup. I think that he was experiencing issues at just over 200whp. He can speak more to this. If you want to make the swap a little easier then look into putting a single turbo on there. I personally would leave it as close to stock as possible, starting it up stock and then slowly work the kinks out. Once this is done then you can start upgrading it.



6. don't forget suspension and tires. These are just as important as the engine build. I am not too familiar with drifting but I would assume that you would need something substantial under there.



7. Here are a few more items that you will need. IC, IC pipe, Silicone connectors, t-bolt clamps, harness, custom exhaust, DP, fuel pump, upgraded fuel lines, HD PP and clutch, boost gauge, etc. I would assume that these parts alone would run you just under 1k. I am sure that there are some parts that I missed.



So if you run a fully stock setup I would anticipate a cost around 4-5k. That is if you can get the motor, etc for 1600. I have a considerable amount more than that. But that is with a single turbo and all the supporting mods.



Hope this helps.

woundup7

350 hp is pretty much impossible to put down to the ground in first and second gear in a fb. I am running 235/40/17 falken rt615 a sticky autocross tire, I can nail it at 15mph in first gear and smoke then all the way to 8000 grand. thats with 270 hp at the wheels. I would like to know how your going to hook that up and not destroy your rearend. Plan on dumping about a grand for a quick suspension overhaul, coilovers, and shocks, struts, What turbo setup and you going to run, twins are hard pressed to hit 350 to the wheels probably about 17 psi to get there. 350 whp will also need a upgraded fuel system, 550 and 1600 would work a 255 lph pump, you will need gsl se fuel lines and tank. Hopefully your starting to sense this list goes on and on. You need at least a power fc for standalone, stock ecu can't run 1600 injectors. T2 tranny, T2 starter, mine was 350, driveshaft 300, exhaust 250-400. etc etc, etc, etc, It has taken me two and half years, to get mine pretty much finished.

ducktape

BTW: you do not need to modify the TII transmission to install it in an FB. The easiest option is to simply notch the transmission tunnel to accept the TII unit. Get a cut-off wheel and cut a 1.5" x 1.5" notch in the back of the hole for the shifter. You'll have to cut back the carpet as well, but it won't show with the stock shifter-surround in place. The shifter sits less than an inch rear-ward of the stock location, doesn't impact any of the surrounding area, and it's near impossible to tell the difference with the shift boot on.

z-beater

^pictures please. I would like to see this.

woundup7

BTW your 79 is a SA not a FB, just so you know

woundup7

Why bother, sure you can hack out a section of the tranny tunnel, But in less than two hours times you can cut the shift rod down, drill a new hole, tap it for threads, cut out a section of the grease tube and braze it up. Fits perfect. At this level of modding a car what is two more hours. Then its a factory perfect fit.



Thats my 2 cents.

ducktape

Absolutely nothing wrong with doing it that way. Having a stock fit is great, provided you care where the stock shifter sat. Really, the change in position is so minute that there's really no point in going to all the trouble if you don't care what purists think. It really changes nothing about the operation of the car, and if you were sitting in my race-seat you'd be glad the shifter was closer as well.



Also if you're installing an REW you've already found lots of non-stock locations for things like the battery, and likely ditched most of the interior when the cheap plastic crumbled away years ago.