1st Generation Specific 1979-1985 Discussion

Driveshafts.....

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Old Feb 16, 2003 | 01:41 AM
  #11  
setzep's Avatar
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From the pinion flange to the output shaft on the transmission is 42 3/16" with the rear axle compressed (jackstands under rear axle). The output shaft sticks out of the transmission 1/16". Those are the important measurements.



Just waiting on getting a price back.
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 04:23 PM
  #12  
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I got the price back from them.

He said ~ $420 for a aluminum shaft and about $380 for a steel one, all new parts. Does this seem kinda high??
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 04:29 PM
  #13  
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yup, i dont see why you couldnt buy an aftermarket stock driveshaft and get a t2 yoke (aftermarket) and just put them together



mike
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 05:32 PM
  #14  
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It is a bit high. Find a local shop and you will get a better price. Ijust posed the link to let you see what is out there and to show you how to measure everything and align it.



Ask some of the old school hot rod shops and they will be able to point you in the right direction. They have been doing this kind of stuff since the Model T.
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 06:00 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 17 2003, 04:29 PM
yup, i dont see why you couldnt buy an aftermarket stock driveshaft and get a t2 yoke (aftermarket) and just put them together



mike
The T2 yoke is larger than the N/A one. Do they make u-joints that are larger on one side and smaller on the other? If so I can see how that would work.



I have a T2 yoke and also a n/a driveshaft from a gsl-se.
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 06:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by RX-Midget' date='Feb 17 2003, 05:32 PM
It is a bit high. Find a local shop and you will get a better price. Ijust posed the link to let you see what is out there and to show you how to measure everything and align it.



Ask some of the old school hot rod shops and they will be able to point you in the right direction. They have been doing this kind of stuff since the Model T.
Yeah, I thought that was kinda high also so I opened up the phone book and found a local place that can make driveshafts. The guy on the phone said they can do just about anything so I asked what time they were open to, he said 6, I went down there with my T2 yoke and n/a driveshaft in hand to see a window sticker that said they close at 4:30 WTF :rant: grrr...



I'll stop by tomorrow and see what they have to say.
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 06:11 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by setzep' date='Feb 17 2003, 04:00 PM
[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Feb 17 2003, 04:29 PM'] yup, i dont see why you couldnt buy an aftermarket stock driveshaft and get a t2 yoke (aftermarket) and just put them together



mike
The T2 yoke is larger than the N/A one. Do they make u-joints that are larger on one side and smaller on the other? If so I can see how that would work.



I have a T2 yoke and also a n/a driveshaft from a gsl-se. [/quote]

i bought an aftermarket shaft it it just came with regular 3540? u joints.



mike
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 06:23 PM
  #18  
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not familiar with your 3540 slang
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 06:26 PM
  #19  
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You can take the driveshaft in and have it shortened. It cost me about $100 for mine. I did a 13B engine swap in which I gave them the RX7 driveshaft for the front yoke and my Suzuki driveline for the rear, made to the length I needed. They also balanced it of course for the $100. It looks like a factory driveline.



I believe FORD used aluminum in the Aerostar. (Might be cheaper to get one from a wrecker and have ends put on it.
Old Feb 17, 2003 | 06:38 PM
  #20  
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Here is a pic of the N/A vs the T2 yoke



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