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Would There Be Any Interest In This Manifold?

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Old 09-19-2003, 09:46 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 93 R1' date='Sep 19 2003, 06:39 PM
not bad. Looks like you do some nice work
I try to. And thanks for the compliment.







Does anyone see any flaws in the design? Like should I make 2 runners for the w/g?





Any input is appreciated.
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Old 09-19-2003, 09:46 PM
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Looks good, but what are the specs, thickness, inner diameter ect.. I dunno about rerouting the wg all the way back form that far forward..
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Old 09-19-2003, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vosko' date='Sep 19 2003, 06:44 PM
putting a price is fine. we aren't like that around here unless you are blatantly an *******
Cool, right on. I am used to some other forums that have strict policies about selling stuff in tech forums. And selling stuff in general if you aren't a site sponsor.





It is good to see that there is a positive attitude here with you guys.







Anyways, as far as pricing goes. I am thinking somewhere between $300 - $450. I have about 8 hours of labor invested into this manifold. It takes time to make stuff like this.





If my price is too high just say something, I am an enthusiest just like the rest of you. I like to see the rotary cars beat up on the hondas.
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Old 09-19-2003, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Sep 19 2003, 06:46 PM
Looks good, but what are the specs, thickness, inner diameter ect.. I dunno about rerouting the wg all the way back form that far forward..
Okay, specs are as follows.





Tubing is 2"id schedule 40 black pipe / steam pipe. I belive that the wall thickness is 1/4"





The motor flange is Racing Beat... Im sure that you knew that.



The t4 flange is 1/2" cnc machined mild steel.



Wastegate flange is 35mm tial / evo / deltagate.







The wastegate elbow can be turned around if needed. This is the first one that I made, so nothing is set in stone.





I will warrantee the manifold for one year. It will not crack, I promise.





Well... Unless you are boosting 30psi and jump the car into a frozen lake or something.... But at that point you have more to worry about then my manifold.
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Old 09-20-2003, 12:01 AM
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Looks pretty good for something you fabbed yourself. Nice to see someone trying to help save some other rotary nuts some money.
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Old 09-20-2003, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 94touring' date='Sep 19 2003, 09:01 PM
Looks pretty good for something you fabbed yourself. Nice to see someone trying to help save some other rotary nuts some money.








Another pic.
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Old 09-20-2003, 02:24 AM
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How come you decided not to use stainless?? I like that you used equal runners for it.



I haven't heard the best things about mild steel, but I guess the wall thickness helps it retain it's structure?
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Old 09-20-2003, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdadrifter' date='Sep 20 2003, 02:24 AM
How come you decided not to use stainless?? I like that you used equal runners for it.



I haven't heard the best things about mild steel, but I guess the wall thickness helps it retain it's structure?
That manifold will outlast the car, sch40 is very thick. It's not made out of tubing like some other manifolds.



Nice job on the manifold, you are obviously a skilled TIG welder.
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Old 09-20-2003, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by matt_sb2000' date='Sep 19 2003, 09:46 PM
I try to. And thanks for the compliment.







Does anyone see any flaws in the design? Like should I make 2 runners for the w/g?





Any input is appreciated.
I would think about maybe ditching the smaller 35mm WG in favor of a larger one. That looks like a small turbine housing on that turbo. I guess time will tell though how it all works out.
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Old 09-20-2003, 10:46 AM
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its a nice manifold but for $300 you can get a HKS cast manifold... i think. just for reference
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