Hello. I've found this to be a very informative site. Thanks to all who are part of it and for the info I've already recieved.



I am doing an engine conversion- putting a JDM 13B 3rd gen engine and 5spd into a '69 Opel GT. The Opel's engine bay is very small. So small that the original 4 cyl. had to be removed from the bottom. Anyways, I chose a Rotary because of the small size, weight, and to be unique. Because of the year of the car and no emissions regulations in our area, we don't need a Cat Pipe or AIR Pump. I've removed the A/C Compressor and P/S Pump because of not needing them as well. After setting the engine in place and getting it mounted there is no way to use the twin turbo setup so I've decided to swap to single because I can build a header and mount it up closer to the coolant fill port in the wheelwell. Normal boost range will be fine because I don't need big power. The car came with 90 HP and weights 2000 lbs so I think the rotary's 260 hp range will still make it fun. A little more is always OK though. I have a Garrett turbo from a Buick Grand National that I'm told is a size 35 and has the built in wastegate. I am thinking this will be a good unit to use for my application. The GNs have roughly 300hp stock and I'm told from Buick guys you can get 400hp with the stock turbo.



I've done some searching and found the diagrams for vacuum plumbing the single turbo. My question is with keeping mild boost settings, will I need any fuel, ignition, boost control, or other mods? If so, what would be good to do. I greatly appreciate any help.

 

When you say "35" are you talking about the compressor wheel inducer's diameter in MM or what?

The stock fuel system on an a stock TT fd can only support the stock boost, 10 psi, safely. That is irrelevant though as you don't have the stock turbo. It sounds like you plan on running the stock ecu?

 

you are going to want to go with a standalone ECU. The stock ECU kinda sucks for what youi want to do

 

Thanks for the response guys. I have looked around a bit more and understand what the stand alone ECU is. Basicly a user controlled computer to set fuel and ignition yourself instead of relying on OEM settings??? Correct?



If I run stock boost with the single turbo, will I still need the new ECU? If so, can you explain a bit as to why. Thanks in advance.



The GN Turbo is a 35MM from everything I've been told. I'd say by looking at others that would be about right purely from a visual stand point.

 

10psi on the stock turbos is not 10psi on your turbo, different CFM. The stock ecu doesn't is based around the stock turbos cfm.. You do need a standalone ecu.

 

I agree, get a standalone. If price is a serious consideration, you *can* look at a megasquirt'n'spark but that is a bitch, from what I've heard. If price is a little less restricted, look at, in approximate increasing order of price and features, the Microtech LT8s, the Haltech E6X or E8, and the Wolf 3D ecus. Any of those will run your engine just fine.



The stock engine management SUCKS, imo, so its a very good thing to get rid of it anyway. Its extremely inflexible and prone to all sorts of failures and problems. Plus troubleshooting it is a biatch. With a standalone, its trivial. Oh, and run your own harness (flying lead, its called)... little more work up front (about like doing a moderately complex stereo install) but well worth it.

 

Dont factor out the TECIII's



Comes with iginition already set up! No need to run 3 MSD boxes and a bunch of coils and shat