Ernie, do yourself a favor and go air to water. I convreted my apex fmic to

air to water and saw 60F on a 100F day. That was initial and it topped out

at 80f according to my haltech on a 4th gear pull. That is compared to

the 120- 130 temps air to air. I don't care how big of a nose you get,

you can't come close to that even with co2 or n2o spray bullshit. Regards.

 

Trust me, I'd love too, but they arn't legal in the street class or I'd be all over it.

 

id stick to this ernie..

the differences in opening in comparison with others wont provide a substantial difference in temp gain imho..

 

God I hope that your joking. Stick with the GTC or the RE 99 replica.

 

The FD is a good looking car because it's so clean, smooth, and sleak. I hate seing people muck it up with bumpers that dont match the cars smooth lines at all. That said i would go with either the Vertex kit, as seen on Apexi's white drift FD, or an oldschool mazdaspeed kit if you can find one.



http://www.roadnspeed.com/webpm/board/file...D_apex-fd3s.jpg



http://www.oneshot.jp/customers/mazda/e/2.jpg

 

You must have been running ice in your water. If you werent running ice please explain how the water was able to pull the temps down below ambient.



What size heat exchanger are you running?

 

Sorry it took so long to reply. Yes, I ran ice. I have a 5 gallon fuel cell in back,

a rv pump. Heat exchanger is a b&m plumbed in after the intercooler so the

heated water is cooled before return. It also won't heat up the ice water that

way. I am testing the pwr 6x10 barrell soon and will post results. I doubt

it will be as good as the apex- not as big, but alot less weight and is really

reduces pipe length. It looks wicked, hope it works well. Anything under

100f will be ok with me. To answer question, the b&m is about 8x10x1.