I recently purchased a T4/GT35 from CheapTurbo. The name is a little confusing so I'll list the specs.



Compressor:

GT35R compressor (note not a GT35 compressor), .70A/R, 61 inducer, 82 exducer

Turbine:

1.00 A/R divided, p-trim wheel, T4



I was originally going to order a T04s but Ken at CheapTurbo said the above combo will give me better bottom end without compromising the top end because of the newer front section design. I'm shooting for a max of about 400rwhp with as much low end/mid range as I can get.

1.00AR with a P-trim wheel. I purchased their V-band kit (115) and had them weld it on (40). Notice how even the weld bead is.

Whats the price difference vs a to4s?

Not sure what to make of this machine work, but I get dizzy staring at it.

I also purchased a 38mm tial Wg, but a couple people have recently suggested I should use a 46mm instead. I know Justin at Davinci (sp?) has been using a 38mm without any problems. Has anybody else had good or bad experiences with this size?

About $70 more-a drop in the bucket.

That'll depend on a lot of things.



How well your manifold flows exhaust to the wastegate, exhaust backpressure, engine porting, blah blah blah....





For the $300 price difference it wouldn't hurt to try this one. You just might have tyo run more boost than you originally planned! Oh no! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

very nice choice! I also was looking for a turbo that would flow a little more air than a to4e, but still had the low/mid of one.



I look forward to seeing your results! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Hey- nice turbo https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif ...I just received my new turbo from Ken also. Good service, nice turbos, etc.

I did a quick overlay in photochop of the 60-1 (to4s) compressor vs the gt35r. The 60-1 is in RED.



Looks to me that at 15 psi, the T04S's sweet spot is a little shifted towards more flow than the sweet spot on the GT35r. However, this might be compensated for by the fact that the sweet spot on the GT35r is 79% which is probably about 5% higher than the sweet spot on the 60-1. So I guess I"m saying those two factors may sorta even out.



Looks like the map is very similar between these two turbos. I'm very interested to see how this one turns out!!!!!



Brian

Turbo looks ALMOST too sexy. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

And that means what? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

After you drive it, let us know how you like it.

Charts, graphs & dyno sheets and what not are nice but say nothing to me about how it repsonds in the car.

CCalisi, Stock or ported engine? Also why did you decide to go small and aim only for 400?

what manifold are you using??



HKS?

it means 79% vs 75% that its gonna heat the air a bit less. denser air = more power. looks like it should be a little ahead of a normal t04 with the same or less lag.



i think i like this turbo!

This one is NOT ball bearing, correct?



If it is, I'm a little confused how they can list this one for $800 and the 35R for $1350? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

It's a standard bearing turbo BUT is not a GT35 compressor; it's a GT35R compressor.

is this for a FD or can it be used succesfully on a s5tii with stock ports?

Technically he said 74% https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png

really want to see what the spool up will be like with this turbo as I was looking into it but ended up going with the 35r kit instead of puttin my own together.

Good luck



Bob

I use the car as a daily driver so I didn't want to compromise too much on the low end by going with a larger turbo. Also keep in mind that I'm planning on using a high flow cat rather than a midpipe. I don't know of anybody that has put down 400rwhp with a cat. Steve Kan claims it is feasible, hopefully he is right!



The motor was built by Carlos Gonzalez of G&S Racing. It has a LARGE intake port that was modeled after what he uses in one of his race cars, and a medium exhaust port. He also machined the E-shaft and balanced the rotors to within 15 grams of each other. The motor was built with 2-piece Mazda 2mm seals.



For those of you that don't recognize the name you can find a bunch of his race results on google. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=...os+gonzalez+rx7



Here are a couple shots of the intake ports in mid production:

http://www.carlisiworld.com/ccarlisi...s/mvc-134f.jpg



There is some special sauce still visible in this picture;)

http://www.carlisiworld.com/ccarlisi...s/mvc-140f.jpg

Hmm

The porting work looks nice. Isn't wargasm making 400 with a high flow?

I thought he was using a midpipe, but I'll double check.



UPDATE:

OIL LINES:

With advice from Justin at Davinci motorworks I decided to eliminate my stock oil feed hard line and run the new line from the block directly to the turbo. I found a company that makes a 14mm banjo with a -3AN output so I can run a -3an line directly off the banjo with no adaptors! The banjo bolt had to be special ordered from German and is supposed to arrive sometime next week. I am using a -12 on the return side.



WASTEGATE:

I decided to exhange my 38mm wastegate for a tial 44mm. In addition to having more capacity the 44mm has a v-band mount which will make it easier to install on my manifold.



BOV:

I ordered a tial 50mm BOV with the 'rotary friendly' spring.



INTERCOOLER PIPE:

Here is where I am currently stuck. What is the best way to go from this

to this?

The car in the second picture uses a Greddy bend that is part of a T-78 kit with the single turbo fmic piping. I have the stock twin piping so I'm not sure the greddy bend will bolt up as easily. The Greddy bend is approximately $80. I'm looking for alternatives and opinions. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif

I think the pix are mixed ?

OK where can one buy that greddy pipe?

Also i would suggest that you might be able to buy one of the el cheapo Rx7 hard intake pipe kits that sell on ebay for $50. Then use those two to make the pipe that you need. I would assume that any exhaust shop could weld up what you need. Or you can try an electrical supply house. They sell 2" and 3" pipe for running conduit. They also have pipe benders on site that can make the bends that you need.

Not sure yet, but I'll let you know when I find out.





Interesting idea. I'll check it out. I've gotten info from a few exhaust shops and they want A LOT of money to do it out of aluminum, which is why I'm trying to find some pre-made.



Sorry about my previous 3 posts, I know I made a mess. If a Mod wants to clean it up I'm all for it. Here is a better comparsion picture.

sometime next week!!??!!??!?

damn, batinc told me my banjo fitting would take a month! You lucky SOB!

Also to add something useful...it looks like you could make all the bends you need from the pipes you already have there with the right amount of sawzall'ing and silicone conectors.



Bob

you can buy ubends and cut em up until you have the right pipe, and then weld it together

ya know ya luvv it!

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

LOL. You know what the say, the wheel that squeaks the loudest..... Look on the bright side, if it doesn't work I'll take the hit and you will still have time to cancel your order https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



I did some research on the Greddy bend. It's actually a cast piece and costs about $100. The biggest problem is it's special order from Japan and would take at least 6 weeks to get https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png



As far as sawzaling the pipe, you're probably right, but by the time I would have a workable solution I think I'd have more couplers than pipe.



All I need is a nice 120deg 3in bend. Surely someone here must know of where I can find one in the US for a reasonable price. I found a supplier in CDA http://www.members.shaw.ca/powertech/pipingbends.html, but would like to avoid doing the cross boarder thing if possible.

Burns Stainless



Woolf Aircraft

Thanks guys. Woolf Aircraft has 180 deg 3in bends for around $40.00. So far that's my best option.

From whom did you order it?



BTW NICE project https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

UPDATE:



Manifold Turbo/Chassis Clearance:

Today I test fitted my turbo and manifold on a friend's car, which is also getting a single put in. I'm a concerned about how close the turbo sits to the chassis. There is a bit more than 1/4" of clearance. I posted a few pictures below that I took with my camera phone (forget to bring the memory chip for standard camera).



I'm going to do some research over the next day and decide whether this is acceptable or the manifold needs to be modified. It won't be too expensive to have someone cut off the turbo flange and weld it back on at a slightly different angle, but it will add some time onto the project.



What do you guys think? How much does the motor torque over under load at full power? Keep in mind I have upgraded motor mounts. I would love it hear from people using a setup with similar clearance.

another.

nice...what does your friend Mark think of it (from the back i mean https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR )