I purchased it from my friend John. He never got around to installing it on his car before he sold it, but it wasn't exactly unused either (see picture). Needless to say, I got it at a good price. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif

LOL, New meaning to the term blow off valve.

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

UPDATE:



Coupler:

Justin from Davinci has been nice enough to dig into his personal stash of couplers and send me a 3 to 2.5" transition. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png Thanks again man.



IC pipe:

The 120 deg Greddy elbow I ordered from Ihor at Gotham Racing arrived yesterday, one day ahead of schedule!



Oil lines:

Below I have posted a picture of my feed and return lines. Please keep in mind that I have not actually connected the feed line yet, but I did lay it over the block and it appears to fit fine. The feed line is designed to run directly from the banjo fitting on the block to the turbo. Notice the super trick 14mm to -3an banjo fitting; BAT global had to order that sucker from German! The beauty of this setup is I have a -3 feed line without any reducers or the need to do a silly line loop near the turbo. I will post back once it is finally installed to confirm that it does in fact fit.



Special thanks to Justin at Davinci for providing the line length measurements and Eric Weller at BAT global for tracking down the Banjo fitting and a couple other obscure parts that I wasn't able to find anywhere else. I told Eric other RX7 owners may be interested in ordering a feed line from him so he is going to try to keep the parts in stock and he has a copy of my invoice on file for reference. There is one mistake on my invoice. I initially ordered a 1/8" line to turbo elbow, but the correct size is 1/4" as I posted in the picture. If anybody decides to order from him it's probably worth reminding him of this.





OIL FEED:

RETURN:

Arn't you missing a connection for the retun? Is that a SS hose? I think I will give them a call.



Chris

Other than the threaded turbo flange I bought from Ken at Cheapturbo.com and the return line to block connection, that is everything. I plan on modifying the stock block flange so I can slip the return line over it. I have attached a picture of the assembled return line below. Note I didn't push the line all the way over the hose end.



The line is made out of the same material that is used in the stainless lines, but does not have the braided casing. The main benefit of braided lines is that they can withstand high fluid pressure. Since the feed is a -3 and the return is a -12 the pressure should be negligable on the return.

UPDATE

Downpipe:

The downpipe I originally ordered has been delayed for at least another 3 weeks. Fortunately, Justin at Davinci is sending me a Davinci downpipe on short notice. Yesterday I told him I wanted to buy one and he sent it out today. With any luck I will receive it by the end of the week. I will post some pictures and feedback once I receive it. That is two I owe you for now Justin. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png



midpipe

I bought it off ebay from a seller that claims it works with the stock downpipe. However, it looks suspiciously like the midpipe in the $125 downpipe/midpipe combo that does not mate up with the stock parts. It took 3 weeks and $50 in shipping to get it here. Overall it was not one of the better ebay transactions I've had, but at least I got something:)



Wastegate

My tial 44mm is supposed to arrive on the 25th. I have already lined someone up to TIG weld the v-band flange to the manifold.



Manifold

The turbo flange on my Autochrome manifold was slightly warped so I had a local machine shop machine it flat. The end result came out very well; I cannot fit even a sheet of paper between the flange and the glass top of my coffee table. The shop charged me one hour of labor for the work.



I will probably start the install process tomorrow evening. More pics to follow.

Oh man your gonna have fun. I didn't read back so sorry if you already spoke on this but what are you doing for fuel?

The fuel mods went in when I replaced the motor in October.



-550 primaries

-primary rail threaded to accept -6AN lines

-6AN braided lines

-Bosch 1680cc secondaries

-aftermarket secondary rail

-SX FPR

-Nippo supra tt pump



All parts, except for the SX regulator, were purchased from www.kgparts.com. I got the regulator from http://www.fluidcontrol.net/pages/regulators2.html.

Yea I have all Keiths stuff in my car. 700ccprimaries, 1680rears and new rails the whole 9. Your gonna love it.

How is your idle with the 700s? I am thinking of installing a set instead of having my 550s cleaned

Dont know, just buttoned it up tonight and heve not got it fired up yet.

UPDATE:



oil feed line:

I installed the oil feed line with the banjo fitting tonight. The banjo fit without any problems. As many of you have probably realized, I'm really excited about this little piece https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png The line itself is slightly too long to take a direct route to the turbo, but I compensated for this by adding a nice long arc.



stock stuff:

I removed all the solenoids and ground down the frame of the rat's nest to eliminate all unnecessary sections. I still have to figure out how I am going to route the oil vent line coming off the oil filler neck. I will probably just run a rubber hose back to the air filter. I may do the same with the oil metering nozzle air intakes, but I am thinking about connecting two small air filters on top of them instead. Has anybody done this?-I think it would be a very clean setup.

TiAL 44

I received my Tial 44mm this weekend. Aside from the V-band flanges, it looks identical in design to the 38mm I posted pictures of a couple pages back. I am hoping to get the flange welded on Monday or Tuesday.

Thats a nice looking wastegate. I have to order a HKS tomorrow. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...>/rolleyes.gif Anyway I just let the oil filler neck off mine vent, I was just going to run some hose to a bottle.

if you want the oil injector nozzles to work, they need a source of vacuum...atmosphere thru a filter is not going to inject oil.

This is something I have studied for some time and I have concluded that they do not need vacuum. If you examine the structure of the valve and consider the negligable amount of vacuum in front of the turbo (which is where the stock metering nozzle lines terminate) I think you will come to the same conclusion. The nozzles can even be run with the air valves capped, but then you will get excess oil injection when the motor is operating in vacuum.



Here is a good read on the subject, with a couple different points of view presented.



http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?s=&t...ng&pagenumber=1

oil: yes the banjo is cool!



pcv: the stock system works! it will suck into the tb, and then when theres pressure in the tb, it will put the fumes in front of the turbo. i had it setup to just use the one in the front of the turbo and it pressurized the crankcase, then i open vented it and it made a huge mess, so now i have it hooked up like stock and its fine.

I don't think that is an accurate statement at all...





Don't you remember reading about the kid who used a tee-shirt for an air filter and it got sucked up???



Once the compressor wheel starts boosting it creates quite a bit of vacuum...in turn, injecting more oil.



maybe I'm totally off, I haven't studied the subject.

















**I'll go read the link you posted...maybe I did things backwards https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif

ok ok after reading it turns out that vac/boost gauges can't read the vac reading...



I was basing my quick response on the fact that I've spooled turbochargers with compressed air and place my hand infront of the compressor wheel and thought it was neat how much vacuum was felt...of course I not as accurate as a gauge https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png definitely more vacuum than I'm capable of producing https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif

dayem three posts in a matter of minutes...sorry.



"More than enough to open the little diaphram in the OMP nozzles though."



if they just need filtered air, how will the diapharm open???



OMP pushes oil thru line, vacuum opens nozzle.



I'd premix for safety.

You're right, under boost there is a fair amount of vacuum. However, it should have no effect on the amount of oil that is metered in under boost.



The air valve only comes into play when the motor is operating under vacuum. The oil is metered into the nozzle below the valve. The valve is a simple one-way air valve, oil does not pass through it. Under vacuum the air openings on top of the nozzles suck air into the motor to prevent the vacuum pressure of the motor from creating a vacuum in the oil lines and sucking in excess oil. This is why a filtered air source is necessary, and why it is connected to the filter on the stock turbos. You can confirm this by unplugging one of the lines and putting your hand over it when the car is idling. You will feel the air being sucked into the line.

Several shops simply cap the air openings. It works, but emissions will go to crap under vacuum.



Under boost, the intake section of the combustion chamber is pressurized instead of being a vacuum. To compensate for the change in the pressure gradient between the oil lines and the combustion chamber the metering pump increases the oil pressure in the lines. Because there is no longer negative pressure inside the metering nozzle the valve remains sealed. If the valve does not seal when the motor is operating under boost, the motor blows oil out through the air valve. I learned this from personal experience.



The ONLY reason I think it may be necessary to connect the lines to a vacuum source is that the one way valves may close faster under boost if a vacuum force is pulling them shut in addition to the pressure being exerted on the other side of the valve by the motor. However, I have run them both ways and never felt a drop of oil come out of nozzles when they are not connected to anything, which tends to support my belief that vacuum is not necessary since any air passing through the valve before it is able to seal should be saturated with oil.

thanks for that explaination...you learn something everyday.



Good luck with the single install...I like the oil feed line! I'll be ordering one soon.

UPDATE:

As I previously mentioned my custom downpipe is back ordered for several weeks. As a favor, Justin at Davinci provided me with a used downpipe he had at the shop on short notice. I test fitted it today and it fits perfectly with the Autochrome manifold. Both the weld work and mandrel bends look very nice.

Before purchasing Justin told me about the v-band flange problem. The flange is created by flaring out the end of the pipe. Unfortunately the flange section is very narrow and doesn't seal well. According to Justin, the new Davinci downpipes have a thicker flange to solve this problem.



I was originally planning on lopping off the flange and welding on the flange that came with my v-band kit. However, I think I may have found an even better alternative (at least a cheaper/easier one). I took an old 3" exhaust metal exhaust gasket and ground off the edges for the exhaust studs. Next I positioned it in the v-band clamp, between the turbo flange and the downpipe flange to take up the excess space. With the modified gasket in place the downpipe forms a much better seal with the turbo, but it is still not perfect; the seal is not tight enough to prevent me from rotating the downpipe when it is clamped down. Bear in mind I used a gaskset that was in such bad shape that it was leaking exhaust around the entire circumference when it was installed between the cat and the catback. Tomorrow I am going to try again with a thick new gasket. If that doesn't work then it's time to fire up the welder https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif



Here is a shot of the modified gasket. Please excuse my glowing hand, I grew up next to a power plant.

Hope all works out Chris! Nice hand.. Do you have to wear gloves when using the bathroom? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683785.gif



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

damn you and your quick recieving/installation of your parts, I still got about 2 weeks to go https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub..._DIR#>/sad.png

I'mmmm back:) Hi guys. Since we last left off my AEM ignition amp failed in rush hour traffic in the middle of the expressway. Because I had to send it back I decided to put my tuning efforts on hold onto the replacement arrived. . . .6 weeks later with no replacement I decided forge ahead without it.



With Rich Ferrall at the wheel I did 2 hours of tuning tonight. Before the amp failed the car was tuned to 11.5psi. Tonight I brought it up to 14.1. For the most part it feels fantastic. However, at that boost level the motor frequently stumbles at high rpm at anything under 11.5afr (the highest value I felt comfortable leaning it out to).



Here are my thoughts:

-The 9 heat plugs are only a couple days old so I do not think they are worn out. However, I have hit a bunch of pig rich cells with them (afrs of 9.5-10), so they may have fouled out. I am going to pull them tomorrow to see if that is the problem

-Maybe the car cannot run at 11.4-5 afr without an ignition amp at 14psi. As I recall my car with the stock twins had the same problem without an amp when Steve Kan tuned it.

-Maybe the wideband sensor is worn out and is reading lean (meaning it's really 10.8 when it says 11.4). Since the Bosch sensor is only $35 and has about 10,000 miles on it I'm going to replace it just to be safe.



If anybody has any thoughts or can help me rule anything out please let me know. Once I get this straighted out I'm going to move up to 15psi and then hit the dyno to generate some numbers!

My thoughts are stop using the AEM ignition amp. Stay away from all AEM products. Go with the tried and tested MSD or Crane setup, why monkey around when the rotary community knows and has proven the MSD/Crane setup works.



What about aftermarket MSD blaster coils or Crane LX92 coils? Or the new rx8 Bosch coils. I know people keep on saying the stock coils especially on the 2nd gen turbos are super heavy duty, but coils do wear out and htey do go out of spec. My did.

agreed, throw a MSD 6A amp in there and run with it.



(I installed one on an FD over the weekend and tuned it up to 19psi, not a problem...even ordered one for my car)

I agree with you guys. If I was starting from scratch I'd use a different box. However, since I am also working on (more like waiting for other people to work on) a 20b project car I'm trying to avoid buying anything for the 2 rotor that I can't transfer onto the 20b. With that said, I got an email from Justin today stating that the new AEM boxes should be ready to ship out in about 1 week.

[quote name='ccarlisi' date='Apr 21 2005, 07:30 PM']I agree with you guys. If I was starting from scratch I'd use a different box. However, since I am also working on (more like waiting for other people to work on) a 20b project car I'm trying to avoid buying anything for the 2 rotor that I can't transfer onto the 20b. With that said, I got an email from Justin today stating that the new AEM boxes should be ready to ship out in about 1 week.


[/quote]



Big news -I'm finally at 15+ psi https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif I replaced the 9s with 10+ motorcycle plugs and it completely solved my high rpm stumbling problem. Whereas before it was stumbling at anything richer than 11.8 above 12 psi it now runs smoothly at an honest 15.2psi with afrs of 11.3-5. I was planning on trying to lower the afr to 11 flat, but my laptop ac/dc cigarette adaptor caught on fire (without the laptop plugged in) and promptly brought a halt to my tuning efforts. Hopefully I will get to the bottom of the problem and have it back up and running later this week.



In the meantime I'm having a blast driving the car. The acceleration in lower gears is awe inspiring. It will easily break traction in 1st, 2nd (as early as 4000rpms), and I even got wheel spin at 5500rpms in 3rd getting on the expressway today. In 4th the acceleration is still strong enough to lock up the seatbelts.



The best part about this setup is that the low end is still very respectable. Positive 'usable' boost starts around 3,000rpms and at 3600 the response is immediate and it pulls like a bat out of hell. A friend of mine had a ported motor with a 35R BB. His setup and mine feel indistinguishable from the seat of my pants. Considering the extra cost and questionable reliability of ball bearing center sections I'm glad I passed on that option.



After I get all my receipts in order I will document and post the package as a 'virtual kit' of sorts -a list of part numbers, prices, and contacts to duplicate the kit. Overall, I'm very happy with how this project turned out.

Any dyno time comming?