I Have An Idea-turbo Spray
BTW do you have a rotary? because the way you preach it makes it seem like you have 20 years experance
no, getting one this summer. I am not preaching about the rotaries I am preaching about phase change cooling.
150c would fry anything in a computer
no ****, thats why you have to cool it.
whoa! 150c?!?!?!?! I work with communications on a daily basis. I've seen modems that at 30c they shut off...Modems don't need cooling like computers...so whatever chips are being used...they're bad *** since 100c is BOILING.
uperently you guys have never worked with an extreemly overclocked athlon. 1. they do not shut off they burn. 2. If you take the heatsink off and turn them on at full load overclocked they will hit 100+ start to burn and smoke and the temps will keep rising untill the conductor is thoraly destroyed.
please do not misunderstand, I do not claim to know much about rotaries, sertainly not more then you guys, but I do know phase change cooling.
also I never said to mount the evap IN the enine bay did I? NO.
more to it IS simple and cheap. For 200$ you can have quite a system going.
why havent auto companies try this? well, no one thought of a "car" before ford, and after he introduced it they though he was crazy and it was to complicated and will never make it. Guess who showed who.
if you know your refrigeration besics and can braze you can have a system that will kick ***.
and if you really want to get bitch about the temps and dont belive me, well, using a cascade setup you can hit -192C, yes thats is celseus!! will cost a bit more but that will freze your god damn engine bay solid so lets not bitch about hot hot it gets in there. Taking in acount that I never even said the set up should be in the engine bay.
INFACT! I said put it int he back and pipe it did I not.
Originally Posted by epion2985' date='Sep 12 2003, 05:44 AM
uperently you guys have never worked with an extreemly overclocked athlon. 1. they do not shut off they burn. 2. If you take the heatsink off and turn them on at full load overclocked they will hit 100+ start to burn and smoke and the temps will keep rising untill the conductor is thoraly destroyed.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,176
From: S.w. Florida boring ass ft myers to be exact. where the old people come to die
dude a computer cpu is like 2x2x.25 inch square....cooling that is easy...i have an overclocked cpu and have had several different setups for the last couple years. cooling something a big as a turbo/engine parts seems a little bit like improbable. like why the hell would you go threw all that effort to make a system like that. sometimes new ideas are cool and have a good base that the idea came from...but the technology isnt there or isnt cost effective. i think this is both...its neither cost effective or feasible at a time like this. i think once you get a car and see how much it really takes to maintain it, then you will stop pursuing ideas like this. i mean come on wtf are you trying to do, reinvent the wheel???
Originally Posted by epion2985' date='Sep 11 2003, 04:44 PM
uperently you guys have never worked with an extreemly overclocked athlon. 1. they do not shut off they burn. 2. If you take the heatsink off and turn them on at full load overclocked they will hit 100+ start to burn and smoke and the temps will keep rising untill the conductor is thoraly destroyed.
I bet you have a magic wand in your pocket too!
I am preaching about phase change cooling.
I know how phase change works, theres a hot side and a cold side. What do you propose to cool the hot side mr. smartypants?
Im no noob to overclocking and cooling.
Originally Posted by epion2985' date='Sep 11 2003, 04:44 PM
no, getting one this summer. I am not preaching about the rotaries I am preaching about phase change cooling.
"WI rules ALL!!!!! AHHH!!!!
NO INTERCOOLER AND YOU WILL RUN SUPER GOOOOOOD"
So when some other noob is researching WI and sees your thread and reads it...and tries it...and blows their motor how will you feel? I believe if you dont have any experience besides what you read on the internet you should not answer others questions. Leave that to the guys like IGY and Dragon and Jspec who have been doing this for years...they wolnt give out info that will **** somebody up.
Its fine to share...but hell man...all of us can copy and paste off a website.
or isnt cost effective
cars as a hobby isnt "cost effective"
i think once you get a car and see how much it really takes to maintain it, then you will stop pursuing ideas like this
i have a car and had multiple cars. I know what it taked to maintain it.
Wow so you OC'ed a athalon, took the heatsink off, let it go to 150c until it burned itself THEN cooled it down to -40c.
I bet you have a magic wand in your pocket too!
I bet you have a magic wand in your pocket too!
i have turned it on and loaded it at at 100% to test it. Yes I did that, then i used a laser thermometer to measure the temp. If you dont belive me tomshardware did it, i belive they have a video. I wanted to make sure because I was qurious, and so I did.
and yes I have cooled chips to -40, you think thats magic? idiot....
I know how phase change works, theres a hot side and a cold side. What do you propose to cool the hot side mr. smartypants?
ROFL, idiot..... Lets start the educating kids, what you are talking is cald a PELT, not so smart I see, pelts use electricity to make one side of a bi popor element cold, at the expence of the other getting hot.
PHASE CHANGE is when you compress a gas to a liquid and then spray it out of a capilary tube, because it sparays out it expands, goes from liquid to gas = eveporation, when things eveporate they absorb heat. From the evap block it travels down the return pipe back in to the heat core wich is cooled of by fast or whatever, then it goes abck in to the compessor.
Dont ******* try to teach me and then call me names if you dont know ****. You are making yourself look like a******* idiot.
Originally Posted by rfreeman27' date='Sep 12 2003, 11:10 AM
[quote name='epion2985' date='Sep 11 2003, 04:44 PM']
no, getting one this summer. I am not preaching about the rotaries I am preaching about phase change cooling.
no, getting one this summer. I am not preaching about the rotaries I am preaching about phase change cooling.
"WI rules ALL!!!!! AHHH!!!!
NO INTERCOOLER AND YOU WILL RUN SUPER GOOOOOOD"
So when some other noob is researching WI and sees your thread and reads it...and tries it...and blows their motor how will you feel? I believe if you dont have any experience besides what you read on the internet you should not answer others questions. Leave that to the guys like IGY and Dragon and Jspec who have been doing this for years...they wolnt give out info that will **** somebody up.
Its fine to share...but hell man...all of us can copy and paste off a website. [/quote]
Jspec learned EVERYTHING from Dragon and IGY...
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,176
From: S.w. Florida boring ass ft myers to be exact. where the old people come to die
Originally Posted by epion2985' date='Sep 11 2003, 09:13 PM
cars as a hobby isnt "cost effective"
i have a car and had multiple cars. I know what it taked to maintain it.
i have a car and had multiple cars. I know what it taked to maintain it.
i never said that this hobby was cost effective
you said my idea wasnt and I commented that car hobbie is not cost effective itself so it renders the factt hat my idea isnt to nul, because cars arent cost effective, you have to spend alot of money one way or another.
what i was saying is that i dont think that its worth the time or the effort to make something like this
someone witht he knowhow in refrigeration can make this set up no prob. I never said an average moron can. An average moron shouldnt be playing with cars anyway though.
you would need to make a jacket to go around what ever part you decide to try to cool. i think trying to make the jacket alone would be way to costly for one person to make for themselves
pay attention, we have moved formt he water jacket idea. I agreed it would be to much work to make the jacket, as far as the jacket went I said spray it in the chambre where water goes to cool the turbo, on a water cooled turbo.
as far as the rest goes I said that even tough it might not be easy for someone new to this to rig this up it WILL be easy to use this system to cool the water that coools the engine or the oil that cools the turbo. For that all you would need to do it pipe the water to a cooling tank in the back or wherever you want, replace the radiator with a heat exchange core for gods sake and run one part as the evap and run water through the other, and mount it where the radiator goes. Same goes for oil, just pipe both thorugh a heat exchanger and stick it anywhere, the heatexchanger to cool the water oil would not need to be half as big as the radiator so there shouldnt be a problem fing a spot for it.
i am calling you out on this because i think you are full of ****
you think I am full of **** because you obviously dont have the know how to see my point. Of coarse it seems impossible to someone who has never worked with refrigeration. I never expected you see see it and understand it the way I do. But i thought you would be smart enough to at least give me the benifit of the dought because I know what I am talking about. Just like I do when you talk about rotaries, even if you dont make sence i will take your word because you have experience in that area.
dont misunderstand me, I am not saying its easy or anything. Neither am i trying to light an argument. I was hoping at least that you would try to see it from my point of view instead of just shooting me down.
its cool though, I see your point as well. I wil try this ofcoarce and would be happy to prove my self right. Just for the sake of contributing a new trick to the rotary comunity. Give me a few months guys.
PS:
one more idea, duct the air from the ac to blow on the radiator, IC, should help with heatsoak when standing in stop and go trafic. Then againw hat do I know


